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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
What do you guys think is the problem.
Looking for some advice. I have a 2012 R55 JCW with 98,000 miles. The car runs fine at any speed in any gear with any amount of throttle after it is started. Yes I hear signs of the "Death Rattle" https://photos.app.goo.gl/z8Fe1MgRvGCCS2iK7
This is a video with a cold start. I have a feeling i know what it is. So I took it to dealership thinking it was the the High Pressure Fuel Pump. Dealership said it wasnt. They said they want to start by fixing the oil leaks they noticed and the tensioner bolt and timing chain for about $2800 and rule those out as the problem before they look at putting in a new HPFP. I know the HPFP is covered for 10 years 120,000 miles from MINI USA. How do I get my service advisor to work with me and replace the HPFP first and than I will move on to the other issues at my local mechanic
Last edited by penguinplf; Oct 21, 2020 at 06:52 AM.
The dealer is not going to replace the HPFP unless there are codes to suggest it is having issues.
I would definitely get the timing chain and tensioner replaced. If the timing is not quite right, and the ECU cannot control the cams properly during cold start, it will stall out.
Best way to diagnose a failing HPFP is to get yourself one of those OBD WiFi or Bluetooth dongles and run either Dash Command or Carly to get the fuel rail pressure reading both at idle and while under load. At idle it should be in the 600-800psi range and in the 1400-1800psi range at heavy throttle. Those are ballparks, but essentially you should be seeing hundreds of PSI at idle and in the teens under heavy throttle. If you're seeing anything in only double digits, its probably only your in-tank pump that is operating.
Best way to diagnose a failing HPFP is to get yourself one of those OBD WiFi or Bluetooth dongles and run either Dash Command or Carly to get the fuel rail pressure reading both at idle and while under load. At idle it should be in the 600-800psi range and in the 1400-1800psi range at heavy throttle. Those are ballparks, but essentially you should be seeing hundreds of PSI at idle and in the teens under heavy throttle. If you're seeing anything in only double digits, its probably only your in-tank pump that is operating.
Thanks which one do you recommend. Dash Command or Carly? Can you link me to a Bluetooth dongle or will any one do?
Thanks which one do you recommend. Dash Command or Carly? Can you link me to a Bluetooth dongle or will any one do?
If you already have a code reader, I'd go with Dash Command, as the option to create your own gauge set is useful. If you need a code ready and want to do some customizations with lighting etc, then Carly might be a better option. As for the dongle, Amazon has dozens of these in the $10 range. Just pick any OBD to Wifi dongle which is compatible with your phone.
If you already have a code reader, I'd go with Dash Command, as the option to create your own gauge set is useful. If you need a code ready and want to do some customizations with lighting etc, then Carly might be a better option. As for the dongle, Amazon has dozens of these in the $10 range. Just pick any OBD to Wifi dongle which is compatible with your phone.
Here's what I've setup on Dash Command:
Am I gonna have to get the PAID version of Dash Command to get my fuel pressure?
If you already have a code reader, I'd go with Dash Command, as the option to create your own gauge set is useful. If you need a code ready and want to do some customizations with lighting etc, then Carly might be a better option. As for the dongle, Amazon has dozens of these in the $10 range. Just pick any OBD to Wifi dongle which is compatible with your phone.
Here's what I've setup on Dash Command:
Well the HPFP is working right at the specs you said it should. I have however noticed I dont have that whine from the intank fuel pump when door open. My guess is the relay. Might need a whole JBE. Do you know if there is a way to test the relay or intank fuel pump through Dash Command?
