Put a new head and timing chain on my R56 non-Turbo with N16 motor and it ran pretty good but still had codes related to re-setting the Vanos, etc. Took it to a shop to clear the codes. They did some testing on my car due to various problems I was having getting rid of CEL codes. The car was running pretty well, just had the codes. They couldn't seem to fix it and didn't know what was wrong. They "theorized" a bad valve guide was causing an intermittent misfire when the engine was up to temp. Compression check among other things was done (they didn't say exactly what they did). Compression check was reported good over the phone - not in writing. When I picked up the car, I immediately noticed it was running worse than I had ever seen before. The half illuminated engine light came on (limp mode?) and I barely made it home, about 5 miles or so. Ran REALLY bad the whole way. Car has sat since then. Just today, pulled valve cover and found intake cam about 30 to 40 degrees off of where it should be. I think the shop tinkered with the timing. I will go to war with the shop on Monday. But my main concern is the valves. I can re-set the timing myself, but I am worried since the timing was so far off, that the valves are bent. Anyone have any experience with how far off timing can be and NOT have damaged valves?

 

Fist Picture is the intake, second is the exhaust. Locking Pin is in place. The flat spot should be level.

 

Can't answer your question directly, but when I had a loose crank bolt and engine jammed up completely, it was the exhaust valves that suffered, intakes were just barely affected. Your pics show the exhaust cam lined up pretty good --- IF the cam lettering is on top. So if you were able to drive it home, chances are the valves are OK. Might be a good investment to find your own compression tester, and definitely a different shop.

 

That's good to know. I'm really hoping you are right. I'm going to talk to the shop before I do anything else because I at least will be seeking a refund.

 

It happened to me when I did my timing chain. Since the car sat for a while, the oil had completely drained. after the installation and firing up the car, few codes popped related to the vanos and timing. after removing the valve cover, it looked very similar to yours. So, I reset the timing and been driving it fine ever since.

you have to reset the timing any way so if anything pops after that, then you can plan for your next step/option.

 

So, after re-setting the timing, the car ran seemingly fine. Drove it for a bit, and it stalled. After stalling, it would crank but sounded like spinning without compression. Let the car sit for a bit, it would start again. The time it would run got progressively less each time. Now it will start and run for only a few seconds. Does this sound like a classic bent valve situation? I'm thinking it is something else, but not sure. My plan is to do a compression check first and maybe a leak down test. I think I really need to pull the head again, but am resisting because I don't want to face that job again. The head was originally off an N12, but I have an N16 car 2011. I don't think that matters too much as I swapped out all the sensors and it was more or less running after I first put it on.

 

Did you reuse your old bolts when resetting the timing? If yes: the bolts are single use; maybe the timing slipped again.

 

I did, but have new ones. Since I'm thinking I have to pull the head anyway, I was trying to save them. I will pull valve cover first. If the cam moved again, then I will use a new bolt and re-torque. If not. I will pull the head and have it checked out.