Recently I have been pulling a 2885 (DFES DTCM.DFC LDRmin C) code. Thru diligent searches I have found that it has something to do with the Diverter Valve. I have also noticed that the code pulls when I first start it up and that I have no pos pressure in my gauge, it goes from a negative to a "0" on acceleration, but never to a positive. So today I tried something new. I installed a "Blue Driver" quite some times ago because I don't have to pull over when the occasional code pops up. I can just run the code and clear it if needed.

So this morning, I started the car, but before driving, I cleared all codes. When I pulled out of the driveway and started accelerating, I had positive pressure showing in the gauge and could tell that the turbo was working great. I did this a few times with the same result. Stopping, turn off the engine, not clearing the code when I restarted and drive to find no positive pressure, then stopping, turning off the car, restarting and then clearing the codes and finding the pressure again.

So my question is this: I there something in the ignition or ECU that is not recognizing the DV when I iniitally start the car and once its running, it recognizes it but only after the code has been cleared?

 

boost pressure control deviation. The system throws a code after it does a calculation which happen after you drive it a few minutes or when you cycle the engine a time or two. I’ve seen this on a few cars I’ve built.

Possible causes.
- Wastegate actuator. If you have a small vacuum hand pump, connect to the wastegate actuator and see if it holds pressure.
- You can also remove the diverted and check the little rubber seal to see if its missing a chunk.
- vacuum solenoid. Its mounted under the intake manifold. You can test it by plugging the hand pump into the hose from the vacuum pump. It should only hold pressure.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm planning on replacing the DV tomorrow. The thing that puzzles me though is if I clear all codes before driving, it performs like it should with good boost pressure, but if I don't clear it, then it wont register positive and I can feel the lack of power. it's almost as if something is tripping at the moment i start it and the clearing of the codes repairs it. Believe me when I say it performs well when the code is cleared so a possible leak doesn't make sense. But I will check it.

Thanks again

 

Yes, that is the method of a boost deviation. It’s not a full on boost leak, but a small leak, which takes the car a little bit to figure out there is a leak. Which is why you can clear it and it acts normal until the car calculates the leak (deviation) then trips the code and puts it in limp mode.