Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Low RPM hesitation

Old May 1, 2020 | 07:22 PM
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Low RPM hesitation

So over the last year plus my wife and I have been saving a 2003 Cooper S while it serves as her daily. I am an auto tech by trade, so I know my way around a vehicle and am not afraid to dive in. You can see some of the history in the build thread I have elsewhere on NAM. Started with some basic maintenance items like all new tires and brakes, fix a coolant leak, exhaust repair, etc. The car was seriously lacking in power, though. So I dove in and replaced the wasted bypass valve. It ran better, but still seemed to pull back once it started to rev, around 2500 rpm. Finally pulled all the spark plugs vs just #1, and found 3 and 4 wasted. Replaced the plugs and what a difference! Except now it just blew the worn clutch off. Best and worst tune up ever! Lol! Ended up installing a Valeo single mass setup and love it. Overall the car is running pretty well, and I don't think my wife really ever gets on it and understands how quick this car really is. I drive the car occasionally, more so these days as I'm still going into work and she is working from home, so Grumpy needs his exercise. I've been noticing that pull back, or hesitation, again. It feels like the ECM pulling timing. I haven't pulled the plugs recently, but they were replaced with OE spec NGK units. It also came with NGK plug wires, and what appears to be a stock coil. If I pull the plugs and 3 and 4 are wasted again, after only 9 months, would the gurus recommend coil replacement? Thanks for your insight and advice.
 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 07:27 PM
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Milage? S or non?

Nik
 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 08:02 PM
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Turn off the DSC upon startup and see if that fixes your issue. I had similar problems with my '04 and I installed a solid state board that automatically disengages DSC at startup -- presto, chango, problem gone.
 
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Old May 2, 2020 | 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by cooper48
Turn off the DSC upon startup and see if that fixes your issue. I had similar problems with my '04 and I installed a solid state board that automatically disengages DSC at startup -- presto, chango, problem gone.
could you pm me some info on that board..I always wanted mine off by default once I start the car as I NEVER use it.
 
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Old May 2, 2020 | 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Yjsaabman
So over the last year plus my wife and I have been saving a 2003 Cooper S while it serves as her daily. I am an auto tech by trade, so I know my way around a vehicle and am not afraid to dive in. You can see some of the history in the build thread I have elsewhere on NAM. Started with some basic maintenance items like all new tires and brakes, fix a coolant leak, exhaust repair, etc. The car was seriously lacking in power, though. So I dove in and replaced the wasted bypass valve. It ran better, but still seemed to pull back once it started to rev, around 2500 rpm. Finally pulled all the spark plugs vs just #1, and found 3 and 4 wasted. Replaced the plugs and what a difference! Except now it just blew the worn clutch off. Best and worst tune up ever! Lol! Ended up installing a Valeo single mass setup and love it. Overall the car is running pretty well, and I don't think my wife really ever gets on it and understands how quick this car really is. I drive the car occasionally, more so these days as I'm still going into work and she is working from home, so Grumpy needs his exercise. I've been noticing that pull back, or hesitation, again. It feels like the ECM pulling timing. I haven't pulled the plugs recently, but they were replaced with OE spec NGK units. It also came with NGK plug wires, and what appears to be a stock coil. If I pull the plugs and 3 and 4 are wasted again, after only 9 months, would the gurus recommend coil replacement? Thanks for your insight and advice.
As you already prob know...."spark then fuel"....

If you've eliminate the spark issues then possibly look to fuel delivery options or sensors. There are two map sensors, one by the water pump and one behind the upper radiator hose just below front of intercooler. Also would not hurt to check the health of the cat. Have seen sometimes when internals of cat are in chuncks or pieces, yet no codes. Get on gas, and pieces move around block exhuast gasses from escaping and down tail pipe..

 
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Old May 2, 2020 | 07:29 AM
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Car runs out pretty solid and I don't hear any rattling from a broken cat. I did have to weld up the joint at the secondary cat after it broke and that one was solid on the bottom side. Maybe I'll have to pull the upstream sensor and stick a boroscope down to check the upper for sure.

We did have the fuel pump fail and it has been replaced, and not with a crappy parts store brand, though I don't recall exactly which brand went in. I do need to replace the filter element, though, to be sure the fuel system is solid.

Thanks for the tip on DSC interference, I'll have to give it a try.

Oh, and currently at 183,xxx miles!! This little bugger is a trooper!
 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 05:36 AM
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So a little update and revisit.

Tried the DSC off, no change.

Checked the plugs, all look even and burning well.

Thinking fuel is the next way to go and replace that fuel filter.
 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 06:11 AM
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Dose it malfunction when low RPM and when engine under some load, like up a small hill or incline ? I had this and was the vac line from the Right SC horn plenum going to the Fuel Pressure Regulator on the fuel rail....

At that mileage and cheap fix, would also consider throwing in a can of Sea foam additive into the fuel tank.....I've been doing this for 10yrs....My MINI has 244K miles on odometer.
 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 06:27 AM
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In order to see that vac line, removal of the intercooler is necessary....its somewhat of a standard size line. Mine had a small crack, then the FPR fails to maintain proper fuel pressure in the rail when getting on throttle....lots of hesitation....esp when putting light load demand on engine.


 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 08:51 AM
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That line I think was replaced when I fed the diverter valve vacuum from that same source. I'll double check it, though.

I really only notice it under a low to medium load, rolling into the throttle during around town type driving. Usually in 2nd or 3rd gear.
 
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Old May 25, 2020 | 09:05 AM
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https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sea-Foam-...SABEgIHgPD_BwE

Least expensive place for Seafoam....other places will charge you 12-14 dollars a can. ( could be just injectors requiring some lube and or cleaning )

Also how did the terminals on the OEM coil pack look ? The #3 inside driver's side for OEM coil packs gets cruddy pretty quickly.
 
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