Cold Start Engine noise - Whistling
Cold Start Engine noise - Whistling
Hey All I am running into some engine noise and wanted to get some help in figuring out what it is. I found some things on the internet saying it could be the vacuum pump.
i think the noise is coming from the vacuum pump.
Can anyone second the opinion and if it should be replace.
Video of sound
i think the noise is coming from the vacuum pump.
Can anyone second the opinion and if it should be replace.
Video of sound
Last edited by Pablo_brown; Apr 24, 2020 at 01:53 PM. Reason: updating youtube link
I have looked at that video before and it not explain the whistling sound. I heard that there was a TSB out to say if the sound was because of the vacuum pump it was fine.
It only happens on cold starts after idling for awhile.
so @mini-is-for-me are you saying that you believe it is indeed the vacuum pump and it should be replace.
SO I should remove it and test it out, and replace if needed thanks for the comment @mini-is-for-me but he did mentioned that some noise at idle is normal.. I am trying to determine if what I am hearing is cool.
Also from the video I understand the ramifications if it is not dealt with and it fails.
It only happens on cold starts after idling for awhile.
SO I should remove it and test it out, and replace if needed thanks for the comment @mini-is-for-me but he did mentioned that some noise at idle is normal.. I am trying to determine if what I am hearing is cool.
Also from the video I understand the ramifications if it is not dealt with and it fails.
Last edited by Pablo_brown; Apr 24, 2020 at 04:19 PM.
This also sounds like a (pretty loud) friction wheel bearing. Maybe removing the vacuum line upsets the engine's rpm (not allowing them to stay constant) and that's why the whining disappears? Vacuum pumps usually make a "clicking" noise, easily checked by placing a long screwdriver to it and holding your ear to the other end.
Checking whether the friction wheel bearing is the source of the noise is not too difficult: you only need to remove the right hand side front wheel and fold over the front half of the wheel arch liner to do so (beware: removing/replacing it on the other hand is completely different matter!)
Here is a video of mine. At 0:26 I push back the friction wheel and the whining noise is gone. Note: the new, OEM friction wheel I inserted (made by DAYCO like the factory one) also has some whine, though not as loud. The pulley itself (including the bearing) can be serviced by itself, there is no need to replace the whole friction wheel assembly like I did (the friction wheel assembly has to be taken out of the car for that).
Checking whether the friction wheel bearing is the source of the noise is not too difficult: you only need to remove the right hand side front wheel and fold over the front half of the wheel arch liner to do so (beware: removing/replacing it on the other hand is completely different matter!)
Here is a video of mine. At 0:26 I push back the friction wheel and the whining noise is gone. Note: the new, OEM friction wheel I inserted (made by DAYCO like the factory one) also has some whine, though not as loud. The pulley itself (including the bearing) can be serviced by itself, there is no need to replace the whole friction wheel assembly like I did (the friction wheel assembly has to be taken out of the car for that).
I have looked at that video before and it not explain the whistling sound. I heard that there was a TSB out to say if the sound was because of the vacuum pump it was fine.
It only happens on cold starts after idling for awhile.
so @mini-is-for-me are you saying that you believe it is indeed the vacuum pump and it should be replace.
SO I should remove it and test it out, and replace if needed thanks for the comment @mini-is-for-me but he did mentioned that some noise at idle is normal.. I am trying to determine if what I am hearing is cool.
Also from the video I understand the ramifications if it is not dealt with and it fails.
It only happens on cold starts after idling for awhile.
SO I should remove it and test it out, and replace if needed thanks for the comment @mini-is-for-me but he did mentioned that some noise at idle is normal.. I am trying to determine if what I am hearing is cool.
Also from the video I understand the ramifications if it is not dealt with and it fails.
Does this only occur when you start it? Does it go away after about five minutes? If so, it’s probably the valve cover PCV membrane. My wife’s ‘12 R60 was making the same noise. I found a replacement membrane on Amazon and replaced it.
Yeah...I've seen a couple of videos of a similar noise with the PCV.
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This is what I replaced it with:
You can replace it with this or order a new valve cover from MINI. The valve cover is around $500. I would try replacing the membrane first, for $40 if it works, great. If it doesn't at least it only $40.
After rewatching the video, I am 100% certain its the PCV. I played the audio for my wife and it gave her flashbacks lol.
This is what I replaced it with:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can replace it with this or order a new valve cover from MINI. The valve cover is around $500. I would try replacing the membrane first, for $40 if it works, great. If it doesn't at least it only $40.
This is what I replaced it with:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can replace it with this or order a new valve cover from MINI. The valve cover is around $500. I would try replacing the membrane first, for $40 if it works, great. If it doesn't at least it only $40.
Yeah, it's for an N18, just like the N18 in the OP's post.
He's missing the engine cover.
https://www.allmagautoparts.com/prod...-11-16-r5x-r6x
Yeah, I see the cover is off caused me to think it was the N14. You can get this part cheaper on eBay, including the Russian version
This sound appears after idling for awhile and after I drive or rev it goes away.
The sound indeed goes away after the car has warmed upped / 5 mins and I rev the engine.
I just replaced the valve cover gasket 3 mo's ago. I don't believe that would be a problem.
I did put a screw driver to the Vacuum pump and did not here the whistling.
Sorry for the late reply. I appreciate the help!
This sound appears after idling for awhile and after I drive or rev it goes away.
The sound indeed goes away after the car has warmed upped / 5 mins and I rev the engine.
I just replaced the valve cover gasket 3 mo's ago. I don't believe that would be a problem.
I did put a screw driver to the Vacuum pump and did not here the whistling.
This sound appears after idling for awhile and after I drive or rev it goes away.
The sound indeed goes away after the car has warmed upped / 5 mins and I rev the engine.
I just replaced the valve cover gasket 3 mo's ago. I don't believe that would be a problem.
I did put a screw driver to the Vacuum pump and did not here the whistling.
Yeah, it's for an N18, just like the N18 in the OP's post.
He's missing the engine cover.
https://www.allmagautoparts.com/prod...-11-16-r5x-r6x
He's missing the engine cover.
https://www.allmagautoparts.com/prod...-11-16-r5x-r6x
@scotty_r56s Is there anyway to verify or test before I buy the part. The part is cheap enough that I may buy it anyway.
Not that I know of. You could pull off the cold side boost tube and look for oil. If the PCV membrane is torn, oil will leak into the intake. When this happend to my wife's R60, along with the noise, oil consumption went way up and there was excess oil in the intake runners.
@scotty_r56s Is there anyway to verify or test before I buy the part. The part is cheap enough that I may buy it anyway.
When you bought the new valve cover, they usually give you a brand new one already installed. Do you know or remember if you had to transfer the old one to the new cover?
Yeah, you can pull off the small square/round one side cover off the PCV membrane cover top, there's a spring, use a screwdriver like you are going to replace it. Becareful no to damage the cover, pierce the membrane or lose the spring that can go pop. If it is torn, deformed in anyway, doesn't seal, or just loosy goosy, then it has to be replaced. I would say you would replace it every 50-60K miles no matter what.
When you bought the new valve cover, they usually give you a brand new one already installed. Do you know or remember if you had to transfer the old one to the new cover?
When you bought the new valve cover, they usually give you a brand new one already installed. Do you know or remember if you had to transfer the old one to the new cover?
Now I am wondering if I should have replaced the cover and not just do the gasket. I thought the gasket would do.
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/20...ver_gasket_set
Oh. Why did you have to replace the gasket to put new plugs and coil packs in? I've replaced both of my plugs and coils without pulling the valve cover. Maybe the valve cover was leaking oil...? You can still pull the PCV membrane off and look at it to see what it looks like. I would think if that is the problem it would look pretty bad. I replaced mine and it has a very slight deformation at one of the lips and it wasn't doing what yours is doing. Mine was just routine maintenance....common failure part # and I was going through too much oil.
The cover is expensive. I'm not sure I would replace it unless something was wrong with it. However, if I did pull my cover off, behind the PCV membrane there are a number of built-in chambers and baffles in the actual cover that somewhat act like a built-in catch can of sorts. Mine were a visible mess when I replaced my PCV membrane. So my eventual plan when I have to pull the cover off, to clean the inside of the valve cover and return it to "new condition".
I have no idea if this is your problem. However, if the current PCV membrane has over 50K miles on it, it needs replacing anyways and it costs $35. If you do that, and you still have the problem, then that wasn't it. Dr's use this "rule out" strategy all the time to diagnose illness.
The cover is expensive. I'm not sure I would replace it unless something was wrong with it. However, if I did pull my cover off, behind the PCV membrane there are a number of built-in chambers and baffles in the actual cover that somewhat act like a built-in catch can of sorts. Mine were a visible mess when I replaced my PCV membrane. So my eventual plan when I have to pull the cover off, to clean the inside of the valve cover and return it to "new condition".
I have no idea if this is your problem. However, if the current PCV membrane has over 50K miles on it, it needs replacing anyways and it costs $35. If you do that, and you still have the problem, then that wasn't it. Dr's use this "rule out" strategy all the time to diagnose illness.
Last edited by mini-is-for-me; May 1, 2020 at 01:15 PM.
The gasket was totally something separate from the spark plugs and coil packs. I mentioned the spark plugs and coilpacks to be the reason that the cover was off.
I replaced the Gasket because I saw some oil leakage and the smell of burning oil occasionally.
I replaced the Gasket because I saw some oil leakage and the smell of burning oil occasionally.
Ok, time for a new PCV membrane anyway then. Its a piece of rubber...they wear out. Not replacing this will eventually lead to your engine seals failing and take a $35 problem into a $1000 problem.
I just wanted to give an update on my whistling engine noise. I bought the PCV repair kit and put it in. I did see a tear in the original so that could have been the problem.
After starting it up cold I did not hear the engine noise so I think I am good.
Thanks for all for your help and replies
@mini-is-for-me
After starting it up cold I did not hear the engine noise so I think I am good.
Thanks for all for your help and replies
@mini-is-for-me






