Hello, I’ve been directed here to the gurus of mini, I have an issue and I need help pinning it all down. I have a 2011 Mini Cooper countryman s all4 just rebuilt their motor. Had an issue with it wanting to start then die finally had multiple codes code come up. I could clear them and different ones would come back fixed the issue with a ground wire on the valve cover.

new issues

Alright new issue....

Codes I am getting
P16e7
P0324
P10ed
Po53a

Car was running fine then started all this.....


I drove the car out of the shop it was running for about 20 mins dueling quietly now I have no gas pedal can’t drive it but when it’s idle if it sounds alright aside from the noisy valvetrain. I checked the timing on everything and compression again and it is all spot on!

I am very very lost here because the only different I can find between now and before the rebuild is is running on all 4 cylinders..

please help thanks in advance!

 

I have a video but I can’t seem to get it to upload

 

Post it on YouTube and link it here.

What was the rebuild for?

 

Motor had a cracked valve, was leaking a bit of oil never had a timing chain serviced just wanted to make sure that it had a fresh set of bearings piston rings and everything else.

 

When my N18 engine swap project exhibited similar symptoms, it was the crankshaft position sensor. I also had a bad oil pressure sensor that effected the charging system. I didn't decode the codes you posted, but having ISTA/D will make the diagnosis much easier.

 

 

You also have a knock sensor code.

 

Yes there is a knock sensor code but it says it’s a system malfunction. I checked the voltage at both wires going to the knocks sensor and I’m getting 1.62 V at each lead. I thought one of them was a signal wire that should get almost 0 V but I’m not sure how it works with mini

 

Knock sensor has frequency output when you tap on it. I had a similar issue, again on that engine swap project, and had to youtube how to diagnose it.

 

Here is my encounter with that sensor.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4439228

 

what code were you getting for the knock sensor? Was it P0324? What video did you watch to check everything maybe I’m doing it wrong.


I can clear all the codes out of the car and as soon as I turn the ignition on code

p16e7 comes on immediately. You can start the car and right away it is operated at half power via the symbol it cannot rough past 4000 RPM and it is very slow rev. The other lights that come on with that is the 4 x 4 light.


I’m kind of lost on where to go from here I have been scouring the Internet for the last five days I can’t seem to figure it out. I also noticed that the injectors sound extremely loud. When I first started the car it was running for a little bit I actually drove it and it seemed fine there was one loose wire that caused it to go into limp mode I fix that and then ever since it has not been right. i’m kind of lost on where to go from here I have been scouring the Internet for the last five days I can’t seem to figure it out. I also noticed that the injectors sound extremely loud. When I first started the car it was running for a little bit I actually drove it and it seemed fine there was one loose wire that caused it to go in the limp mode I fix that and then ever since it has not been right. I’ve checked timing on this motor multiple times and can’t find a problem I took the valve cover off and cranked it over to make sure that I had oil at the top on the cams and everything gets wet with oil.


this motor was quiet and then as soon as it started acting up it got loud but it sounds like it’s coming from the injector rail underneath the intake manifold when you stick a Stethoscope on the rail underneath it it is extremely loud.

 

Code p16e7 comes on immediately after clearing the codes as soon as the ignition is on its back instantly does anybody have a wiring diagram for this circuit

 

If the code comes immediately, then the sensor is shot or wiring harness is bad.

Check newtis.info for wiring diagrams

 

I don’t think there is a sensor attached to it hoping maybe a broken wire or something simple

this is what the code means from what I see

p16e7
DME. internal fault, monitoring 5V sensor supply: Voltage outside valid range

 

Yeah I've had this before. I know i replaced the wiring harness and even replaced the ecu.

Unplug the two plugs going from the ecu to the engine and check the codes. If you're still getting the internal fault, I'm afraid the ecu is bad. But if the codes relate the sensor being unplugged, then the wiring harness is bad.

 

ok so I un plugged the 2 top plugs and that code goes away but other ones come up, I left the middle one unplugged and plugged the top one in and the code comes back. The code does not come back with the middle one plugged in and the top one unplugged.

so since the code goes away there is an issue with the harness?? Any idea what part of the harness causes the issue?

 

Check newtis.info for ecu/dme pinout.

You could try plugging everything back together and remove one sensor plug at a time to see which one is triggering the short.

 

so I started plugging stuff back in and found that code comes up when the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail is plugged in. I don’t see any broken or chaffed wires yet but checked continuity and seems good. Just to be safe I will separate the wires from the group in the harness and inspect them better.

 

Yup...sounds familiar to what happened to me. You're moving in the right direction.

 

I can’t seem to find a test process on testing the sensor itself

i checked voltage unplugged KOEO I have 5v to both outside terminals and 0v to the inside. I have 5v between the outside terminals and the center terminal.


is there a resistance reading for the sensor?

I was checking to see if there was any at all and also notice that I have resistance between all 3 terminals and the body of the sensor??

 

Ok so today



Sensor That will be replaced with PN# 13537537319
I tested ohms on the sensor between all three terminals along with checking to see if power actually went through all of the terminals to ground and I get voltage from all three terminals so I think there is some type of internal short on the sensor.


I ordered a sensor, sensor I ordered is PN#13537537319 since mini only offers that sensor as a whole rail assembly I ordered one for a BMW hey different model same threads same plug.

 

Definitely making progress...

 

H


Pictures of Checking through voltage battery positive to sensor pin and grounding sensor out

 

Alright New sensor was tested and the code to not come back. Solve a lot of problems with the knock sensor malfunction the computer being possibly bad that is all gone now.

I still have an engine that is in limp mode it was not throwing any codes and eventually gave me a code P1338 and P1339 I checked for voltage out the plugs for both cam sensors and they check out good. My next step will be to check the cam sensor itself but I am not sure what is going on now