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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
I have now replaced the spark plugs, all 4 coil packs, valve cover gasket and orings due to oil leaking into the coil packs. The car seems down on power a bit but everything seems to work be working. I would love to get the check engine light off but with all these codes I don't know where to start.
My recommendation would be to clear all the codes and start over. The minute the engine light comes back on, read the codes again and compare
Bryan
I have a Creader crp123 and tried clearing all the codes. Once I did that and went back in they were all still there like they hadn’t cleared. The car chimes like it’s suppose to. I then went to orielly to see if their computer could clear the codes but same thing.
A lot of "aftermarket scanners" & "code readers" will not clear codes from European vehicles......my Snap-On scanner wouldn't clear codes on my "04 R53........I had at buy the Schwaben scanner from ECSTuning before they would clear completely.....and even pulling the battery cables off for a day still would not clear them
You need the correct tool for the job....plain & simple
I had an actron before I had our schwaben tool. The actron would not clear all the old codes. The schwaben scan tool did, It actually showed way more with the schwaben which i then took a picture with my phone before I cleared them all for reference.
Yup.....that's the one I bought.....works great, but you will have to take your time and figure out where all the screens are in the tool.....the little owners booklet was not really all that clear, at least for me.......but after "experimenting" with all the screens and features, you can read & clear codes with ease, getting live data is a plus also, but a lot of the values are not in US standard values, and I have not found a way to change over to american data
The permanent codes while they can be made non active -- provided the error condition no longer exists -- can't be cleared except by the engine controller after so many warm up cycles with no error condition present.
The pending codes may point to a possible problem but might be an artifact of one real pending code. That is a number of codes are pending their status being held up by a code that has to advance from pending to not active so the other codes then can be processed and (hopefully) they too can be found to be ok.
Trouble is to know which one is the real pending code.
With the CEL on and the number of active codes 1 (or more) the code you should focus on is the code associated with the freeze frame data. This is the code that triggered the CEL. And this suggests it should be the one that is focused on.
If there is no CEL thus no active code and no code with freeze frame data my course of action would be to write down the codes and after each code what it means. This could possibly help me understand the relationship and decide which code might be the one to focus on.
Pending codes: P16E7 P16E8 P16E9 P0120
The P16EX codes are Mini (BMW) specific. The P0120 code is an ISO/SAE defined OBD2 error code.
P0120: Throttle Position Sensor/Switch (TPS) A Circuit Malfunction.
Possible causes:
Sticking throttle return spring
MAP or TPS connector corrosion
Misrouted harness causing chafing
Bad TPS
Bad PCM
The other codes:
P16E7: Internal Control Module Volt Supply Voltage 1 Performance
P16E8: Internal Control Module Volt Supply Voltage 2 Performance
P16E9: Control Module Serial Peripheral Interface Bus 2
For the above error codes possible causes can be:
Engine Control Module (ECM) Programming
Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) harness is open or shorted
Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) circuit poor electrical connection
I'm no expert but a bad engine controller is rare unless you tell me the car has been exposed to high water, has a water leak, or may have been visited by rodents.
Absent those possibilities, the codes suggest a power supply problem to the "internal control module" which may be Mini (or BMW) speak for engine controller.
A bad battery, or a good battery but a sub-par alternator that results in a car and specifically the engine and its control system and sensor systems not receiving sufficient electrical power can result in all kinds of errors.
As the possible fault causes indicate there can be a wiring connector or wiring harness problem, as well.
After purchasing the schwaben tool I still have the following codes.
i managed to find that the vent hose from the crank case was broke in half and replaced it. Since then the car feels like it has gotten worse. It now surges when coming to a stop and between 700-1000rpms at idle back and forth. When trying to take off from a stop it struggles and stalls and almost dies.
The last 2 pictures are of 2 electrical connections. The black one on the left wasn’t connected to anything and I couldn’t find what it goes to. The one of the right connects to the sensor on the valve cover vent hose. If this is suppose to be connected to something some guidance on where that connection goes would be awesome!
After purchasing the schwaben tool I still have the following codes.
i managed to find that the vent hose from the crank case was broke in half and replaced it. Since then the car feels like it has gotten worse. It now surges when coming to a stop and between 700-1000rpms at idle back and forth. When trying to take off from a stop it struggles and stalls and almost dies.
The last 2 pictures are of 2 electrical connections. The black one on the left wasn’t connected to anything and I couldn’t find what it goes to. The one of the right connects to the sensor on the valve cover vent hose. If this is suppose to be connected to something some guidance on where that connection goes would be awesome!
Did you get this fixed. Could you take a wider picture of where you are in the engine and of what wiring harness those come out of. Thanks.
For the P16xx codes, I would start in the fuse box in the engine compartment. Check all of the fuses. If they are good, check the fuses in the kick panel. I had a problem with the #4 engine fuse blowing and getting similar symptoms.
I haven’t gotten it fixed yet or figured out where the plug goes. Here’s the only pictures I have. I’ll check the kick panel box today. I already checked all fuses in the fuse box in the engine bay.
Originally Posted by gresh
Did you get this fixed. Could you take a wider picture of where you are in the engine and of what wiring harness those come out of. Thanks.
For the P16xx codes, I would start in the fuse box in the engine compartment. Check all of the fuses. If they are good, check the fuses in the kick panel. I had a problem with the #4 engine fuse blowing and getting similar symptoms.
I haven’t gotten it fixed yet or figured out where the plug goes. Here’s the only pictures I have. I’ll check the kick panel box today. I already checked all fuses in the fuse box in the engine bay.
The larger looks like the hpfp fuel pump and the smaller looks like the thermostat.
I took the car to a local shop but they don’t dive real deep into foreign cars. They pulled up way more codes than the Schwaben did. Here is the list. I’m assuming I need to replace the DME. Planning to buy a numbers matching off eBay and have it reprogrammed. Who do you recommend to send it off to have it matched to my current DME?
I used RPM Motorsports out of Canada when I had my no start issue....you might want to call them first and talk with them, they can test your components to see what is bad before you spend money on an item you may not need....
