Question for everyone. Can't seem to find the answer in either the Bentley or the Newtis website. I've torqued the head back on the block and am ready to reinstall the cam shafts. What is the correct torque for the bolts on the seats holding the camshafts to the head? Is the the 8AZ "lifting lug to cylinder head"?

 

No, use the 10NM for the bearing cap.

The lifting eye is the lifting handle on the driver side end of the cylinder block (in between the hpfp and the vacuum pump).

 

Thanks! I looked at both the diagram on Newtis and in the book but neither of them call out the camshaft removal or installation.

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...mshaft/G0Y9NOy

Make sure to keep the order of the bearing caps. They are not interchangeable.

 

Thanks! I kept looking for this but couldn't find it. When I pulled the camshaft out I placed them both on a separate piece of cardboard and had the bearing caps in the same order with the bolts. I also did the same with the (lifters?). I have both back in the engine but only finger tight. Will work on it again tomorrow evening.

 

I suggest you spend more time looking thru newTIS. These are found under "Replacing XXX camshafts" ---

 

Got it and thanks to @oldbrokenwind and @cpmetz for the help. Got both camshafts reinstalled and torqued the bearing caps to specs. Installed the special tool to set the timing. Would have started the timing chain but it's starting to get dark and I'd prefer to get everything done under the light of day. No electricity in my shop yet except when I run an extension cord. I've been reviewing both Mod Mini's video on a non Turbo N14 and a few other videos made by two others who have pretty good details. I believe I've got all the Newtis how to's book marked and also have the Bently to guide me.

 

Got the timing chain installed, friction wheel, new cross over tube, thermostat, new vacuum pump and was ready to install the new valve cover. there are two small plastic parts with o-rings that came with the valve cover...no idea. Also a small bracket that was with my vacuum pump parts...can't remember where this went and can't find it in any of the call outs/diagrams on RealOEM.com..should have taken pictures. Appreciate any help.


Came with valve cover but not sure what it's for.

Small bracket. Looks like it might attach to the vacuum pump as a brace for something else.

Back side of the small bracket

 

The small bracket is I believe the one that holds the turbo coolant piping. It's attached to the front bolt of the vacuum pump (the side with the cut away side), and then a bolt holds the coolant thing. I'm missing the same part on one of my Minis. So if you decide you won't put it on, send it to me....

 

Thanks! Finally found it on the diagrams after finding out where to look...It's not in the vacuum pump diagrams but is in the turbo diagrams...and as you said it's a bracket for one of the lines.

 

I had to take a few weekends off and am just now getting back to working on the Mini. Today I changed the fuel filter in the tank, got the valve cover reinstalled, the exhaust manifold and all heat shields and started to reinstall the intake manifold but that one stinking 10mm bolt for the bracket gave me fits. I tried everything I could to get it started and finally used a magnetic 10mm nut head on a flex extension attached to a ratcheting screwdriver and got to it from the passenger side wheel well. Even after I tried this it took a while but I found this to be the best approach. Hopefully tomorrow will be a little easier.

 

Got the Mini started this morning! I don't have the front end back on it yet but I got all the engine components installed/connected...filled the coolant reservoir with distilled water and flush since the coolant system was what started this thread. Fresh oil/filter, fuel filter, water pump, cross over tube, belt, vacuum pump, radiator, head gasket, timing chain. It took a few times turning it over because there wasn't any fuel/pressure in the lines...but it ran every smooth after it started!

I did manage to bungle one of the sensor plugs on the "Rubber Boot" but it's plugged in..will need to get a repair kit for the plugs.

I learned a lot through this that may be helpful to others so once I've got it all back together and have time to make another post I'll start another thread.

I finally figured out a way to get that #*&@&#$ 10mm bolt (M6X20) in and out without any trouble....I probably spent more than 2 hours trying to get that bolt back in only to have to take it back out again...I can now take it in / out in less than 2 minutes!

 

Repairing the bungled plug was way easier than I thought it was going to be. I purchased a replacement from Pelican Parts and also purchased a pin extractor tool from Amazon...both arrived the same day. Took about 5 minutes to figure out which tool to use but once I removed the first pin it was too easy to remove the other. I wasn't sure if I would also need to replace the sensor since I had inserted the incorrect sensor plug previously but there were no problems. The sensor is detecting the coolant temp and the fan did not come on after I turned off the engine...which it was doing when the engine didn't know what temperature the coolant was.

Now it looks like all I need to do is put the front end back on the car...reinstall the fender liners and take her out for a test drive this weekend.

 

Thanks for all the info and letting us know how you made out.

 

It's been a few months now since getting the Mini back together. Wound up having two other nagging problems I believe will finally be resolved in the week. The car kept stalling after filling up with gas. Could not figure out what the problem was...the other thing was a periodic code about lean fuel mixture...well...I was in the middle of replacing the fuel tank breather valve when the low pressure side of the HPFP fuel line popped off and fuel spewed a bit. I cannot get the fuel line back on without it coming off. This leads me to believe it was not on the right way to begin with and the problems I was having with fuel mixture probably had something to do with this hose. We'll know for sure this weekend when the new line comes in. I've got my fingers crossed....

 

I wound up just replacing everything in the gas tank (filter side and lpfp side). This cleared up a lot of problems I was having with stalling and lean fuel mixture. I am pretty sure my lpfp was bad, but I didn’t want to chance it. Runs like a dream now. Not an error to be found.

 

I replaced the fuel filter when I had the engine apart and initially thought that is what was causing the problem. Now I'm hopeful it was the low pressure hose going into the the HPFP.