been dealing with this issue in my 2003 Mini Cooper s for about 6 month now really want my car back. Getting codes p2301 and code P2304, no spark, before the car stopped running, I was hit, not sure how hard, in the passenger side door the next time I drove it, it died, when I shut it off burning the lead to the starter solinoid. I know there is no inertia switch since it was integrated into the srs in these models,but could I have been hit hard enough to not set the airbags off but still mess with sensors? I read a post that talked about something like this happening and the starter would burn up. All fuses and relays are fine as well as the mega fuse in trunk. The mini dealership had it a month and couldn’t figure it out and they told me it was the dme, I sent the dme to g4 computers to be repaired and they said it was a blown transistor in the computer, but when I put it back in still the same results and same codes. Is there a dealer reset for this or could it be a software problem? Or could I be getting these codes from the line in the gas tank. As far as I have been told (since I don’t have pressure guages) I have fuel pressure.

The impact could have loosend a ground or wire connection to the starter. Or you may have wires shorting out since you say you burned the wire to the solenoid. Does it start now? I’d start with all main battery connections and grounds.

Is there a ground in that door that could have been disturbed. When I took it to dealership they specifically said they checked all grounds in the car.

Not in the door but an impact can loosen things in other areas. Those codes could indicate a bad coil. Coil is cheapest fix if you are throwing money at it.

I have replaced coil, plugs, and wires as well as the pigtail connector to the coil.

The car was running great! Got hit while parked at home , I’m not sure how hard I was hit dented the passenger side door up pretty good.(need new door and mirror) got in the car the next morning drove with a little bit of a stutter for a few miles stopped to talk to my wife and shut car off. Went back to the car to try and start it and nothing not even a click. Noticed smoke coming from hood (starter /flywheel) pulled the starter lead from starter to solinoid was burnt. Replaced starter, car cranks over fine but won’t start. I then tested and checked all fuses and relays, all checked fine. Pulled coil and decided to replace tha, still the same cranks won’t start. Replaced spark plugs and wires,still the same. Replaced pigtail connector to coil, no luck. Checked cam sensor tested fine, checked the crank sensor got some weird readings on that so I replaced that just to be sure. Still no start, cranks fine.i had the battery tested and charged a few times in this whole process, tested good and charged. Took it to a local Indy bmw shop they couldn’t figure it out. Towed it to another local shop they couldn’t figure it out but said they thought it was the dme. Towed it to mini dealership where they had it for over a month and couldn’t figure it out and they said they thought dme. Towed the car back to my house, sent dme to be repaired they said there was a blown transistor and they died it. Put dme back in and still the same cranks but won’t start. All the time getting the same two fault codes p2301 and P2304. The car is still dead.

Ok. That’s a great explanation. Have you checked fuel pressure? That’s about the only thing on the list you don’t mention. Also, did you verify at the spark plugs that you are not getting spark?

I did check spark at plugs with test light and the old fashion way of grounding. I don’t own pressure gauge but dealer checked fuel pressure or they told me they did.

So there was no spark when you tested? Also, the dealer didn’t find your problem so I’m not sure I would trust that they did everything they said. You can get a cheap fuel pressure gauge set at harbor freight for around $25. However if there was no spark when you checked that would lead back to coil, crank sensor or computer control of spark, all of which you say you addressed. That means it must be an issue in the ignition circuit. Check all the fuses and relays again including all connectors at the fuses. Could be a water intrusion that has corroded a connection. Maybe someone else can contribute to advice. Those codes indicate that the PCM, DME on a Mini, is not able to initiate spark. There is another set of electrical connections on the passenger side behind the kick panel. Since that was the side that was hit I’d look there for wiring or connection damage. It really sounds like this is a connection issue. Here is a link to a good examination of the fuses, relays, and connection locations. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nd-wiring.html

Ya the bcm is I front of that door I pulled it checked connections and pins, no corrosion there plugged and in plugged a few times plugged it back in still the same thing. I pulled key ignition and found some black on it cleaned it up still nothing.ill check fuses again. I’m located I. El Paso Texas on fort bliss, if there is anyone in the area that can help that would be great!

These are the lights on I have.

These are the light on the dash, plus service engine soon light.

Those are all on while the vehicle is running? Hopefully someone, much more knowledgeable than me, here will offer some advice.

No the car is not running it will turn over, but won’t start those are on when the key is in the on position.

Those look like the lights that normally come on with the ignition before the car is started.

The only one that goes off it the battery while cranking, everything else stay on as long as key is in the on position.

Lights upon first turning key to ON.


Lights after key is ON for 3-5 secs.
Ok I checked my car and these are the lights that are initially on when putting the key in the ON position (first pic). After about 3 seconds in the ON position most lights go out (second pic). I didn’t start the car. I know this is frustrating for you and I’m sure you believe you checked everything really thoroughly, but I can tell you that I’ve missed simple things after going over issues multiple times. I’m no expert and it’s hard to diagnose something long distance, but I still feel it is a connection issue at some juncture; fuse, relay, connector, etc. That’s just my guess. I can’t believe no one else has contributed to this yet. Cmon guys and gals help a guy out! Unless you’re a gal!

Can the wrong oil make the car no start? I put a few oz of royal purple in it because it’s all I had at the time, just to top it off?

Never heard of oil causing a no start condition. Let’s go back to basics. You need fuel, air, and spark go make an engine run. Confirm that you have all three of those things or which one(s) are missing. You said you checked spark. Go back and check it again. Do you have a harbor freight near you? They are a good source for inexpensive auto diagnostic tools for the DIYer. Get a spark tester and plug it into your plug wires. I’m afraid I’m not going to be able to offer much more to help. Good luck!

Hou have three HFs in El Paso.

Yes I can hear fuel pump prime.

Get another code from my dash. 14.4 has code 112100 what does this code refer too? Crankshaft?

please help!

Best I could find on a search is that it is related to the crankshaft. Didn’t you replace the crankshaft sensor?

Yes I did replace crank sensor.i thought that was weird. Any other time I have checked it it just said 00000000.