I have a 2010 cooper S and it has an ABS fail light as well as a DSC etc since you loose all the related systems when a wheel speed sensor is not working. I bought the car a week ago and the seller claimed that it needed a RH rear sensor so I scanned it and verified his claim before buying the car. Flash forward one week and I just installed the new sensor but I can't clear the fault as it is still an issue. When I read the data from the individual channels they all show zero KMPH since I'm parked except for the right rear which indicates 255 kmph. So obviously there's an issue with the right rear channel but before I go chasing wires and yanking the ABS computer, has anyone else experience similar symptoms?

 

Well I figured out that 255 is indicative of an open circuit so I guess tonight's game plane will be to do some wire chasing and testing from the wheel, back to the DSC control. More later for anyone interested.

 

I have the exact same issue. Changed the speed sensor and the hub. Problem did not go away. Was intermittent and now it is permanent. Any update on your end? Forums seems to point towards bad wire. Reaching the ABS module is a pain behind the DME.

 

Btw, the exact same year of make and model.

 

I followed the troubleshooting information on the Pelican Parts web site and found that for the one wheel I have low voltage coming from the control module so it appears that I need a replacement. Then I had a chat with my local dealer who insisted that I need to ring the car in to them to be diagnosed. I asked if they would program a replacement Module if I located and installed one and they said that they couldn't do that. But they were more than happy to sell me one and then program the one they sell me. It's apparent that I won't be getting much support from them.
So I've reached out to Way Motor Works to see if they can sell me one and program t to my VIN before they ship it but they haven't responded to my message yet.

Now I'm on the road for two weeks traveling fr work so nothing will happen till I get back.

 

Was it this one? https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...or_Testing.htm

 

Yes that's the one.

 

How did you ascertain that it was low voltage? It's funny how this problem always happens to the rear right side. Saw a thread where the guy found that it was the bad wire near the harness connection. I've actually bypassed the hardness by tapping wires direct to the sensor cable. Still the same. Haven't really done the Pelican DVOM test yet. Just got a new meter recently (old one died). Maybe I should do that. Having said that, I am also thinking to test the whole wire connectivity from the sensor to the ABS module.

 

I back pinned the connector like they described and I was expecting to see battery voltage but only saw 7 volts with the sensor unplugged and 1 volt when the sensor was plugged in. Then I looked at my scan tool and found the code was to do with low source voltage on that channel. I cleaned the connector at the ABS module and sprayed it with deoxit to ensure that any corrosion was neutralized, not that any was apparent. It didn't help in any way.
What's interesting is I was getting 255 kmph when I read the live data stream which indicates an open circuit or so I was made to believe but it sn't open because I'm getting voltage readings across the circuit with and without the sensor plugged in.

So short of tracing each wire, which currently have continuity, it has to be a source issue. Thus the module.

 

I shall attempt the same thing tomorrow then. Mine also reads 255km/h. I believe the module reads the "interval" of the 12v-9v wave. The faster it goes, the higher the km/h. 9v being the "signal" of reading the magnetic bump in the hub. Therefore, a low reading below 9v would make the car think it's at max speed? Just an assumption here.

Question: -
1. How did you manage to reach the ABS module connector? From the top or bottom? Did you have to remove the DME, the box of fuses next to it?
2. My code was 5E13 and on BMW insta tool it just indicates "voltage range", Found some interesting reference on the same code for BMW. Seems generic.
3. Having the low voltage could also be due to frayed wires - increased resistance.

 

 

I was able to reach the connector on the module from the top with the airbox removed. I didn't touch the DME.

 

I shall come back with my findings in a day or two. *Fingers crossed*

 

Did the Pelican test. My reading is approximately 11.8v (car not started - with or without the ABS sensor connected). With the sensor connected, rotated the wheel and the voltage fluctuates approximately 0.20v down to 11.6v and back up again to 11.8v. Check wiring all the way to ABS module. Nothing was shorted, cut, etc. Looks like I'm equally screwed - needing a new module.

Found some used ones on ebay. Do you know which ones will fit without removing the faulty module in the car? Some seems to indicate "DSC" and some "2WD". I'm leaning towards DSC.

 

Interesting result!
It seems like the voltage you are getting is pretty close to what the module is supposed to be putting out but the pulse is small when the wheel is rotated. I'm thinking that the magnetic field from the ring in the wheel bearing is supposed to impede the voltage flow, giving you the pulse, which the control module interprets as speed based on the time between the peaks. If your voltage drop isn't large enough the control module doesn't see it. This would be more obvious on a scope of course. So it is possible that your issue is in the bearing assembly itself. That would be fantastic as it's much simpler to replace but it doesn't explain the 255kmph reading, so I'm left scratching my head here......

 

I would hope so as well. I've had the bearings replaced 2 months ago as part of the elimination process. Same results. I've got the old bearing with me as well as the older cable. Tried with both of them as well yesterday yielding similar results. Therefore a real mind boggling experience.

 

This is what boggles me too. If you see the pics from Pelican, The DVOM fluctuates approx 2.2v whereas the lab scope clearly fluctuates only 1v at most.

 

Well after a few weeks away for work, I finally got back to the Mini. I decided to yank out the ABS / DSC control module and send it off to be tested and fixed as required. I'll follow up when the results are in.

 

I've consulted some of the mechanics that fixes these minis. Most of them seem to concur the problem lies with the ABS Module especially if the problem is intermittent. I have ordered a used/scrap one from a Countryman donor from Netherlands for approx USD$150. Once it arrives I will swap it out, bleed everything and recode it to my VIN. Will keep you posted on the outcome. How much effort was it to remove the module/pump?

 

I would have considered a replacement unit but there was always a chance that it would arrive and be faulty. In addition, I can't code it to match my VIN and the local dealer here in Ottawa says that they can't either. However they were more than happy to sell me a new one and that would have required coding / programing of some kind so I think they were full of ****.
The place I sent mine is in Toronto. They specialize in all manner of ABS module repairs for BMW and Mini so hopefully I will have it back in a week or so.

It took me about an hour to remove the complete ABS pump and module. It's a bit messy but I figured that it could use a brake fluid flush anyway so I just put a big pan under the engine and let her drain. There are two bolts on the bottom side of the assembly and one on the backside towards the firewall. Six lines to be removed on the top (carefully) and the connector. I disconnected the battery and removed the DME as well as the intake tubes and air filter housing to have better access. I'm also doing the timing chain and a new thermostat as well as blasting the intake valves, so everything gets done once.

 

 

This was ISTA+. Anyway my problem disappeared after I replaced bad shocks at front left and bad front sway bar links. Weird. I haven't even swapped in the used unit I've bought. No errors for 2 months now. Damn gremlins.

To answer your question, regular OBD would not display these errors. OBD mostly just display problems with the engine ECU.

 

 

Forgot to mention that I also replaced the ABS sensor connector harness. That may have did the trick - perhaps a loose pin connector inside that caused intermittent readings.

But for your case, you need to plug it onto a system to diagnose it first, to see which sensor is throwing the error. Otherwise you're trying to fix the problem blind.