Do you know if you actually got real febi ones from Amazon? I just ordered the febi bushings from ECStuning. I thought they are considered a quality brand?

 

They were advertised as Bistien-Febi....

As I mentioned, I regiment just getting from the dealer as they are inexpensive. In the end my cheapness cost me Time as I did the job twice....

 

Can you please post the video to Youtube and just give us a link to the Youtube video. I feel like I have this sound?

I bought a used 2011, 64K but it looks like it was driven on a lot of country dirt roads. The shocks also feel worn but still have a bit more life in them because I can still feel they provide descent support. So I was trying to figure out what it was. It sounds like something is "loose" in the trunk but different from shock noise. Just ordinary road cracks kind of make a "double sound". Is there any way to "inspect" them without disassembly? How much are the OEM compared to Amazon?

They look dirt cheap where shipping is the primary cost. https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/130178...UaAo5XEALw_wcB

 

I ordered two Febi on ECStuning for like $4 for both, as opposed to $20 for two original.

 

2cati is saying they are not as good and have problems over the OEM's. Did you have problems with yours? How difficult of a job is this to do?
It looks like mine for a 2011 would be different. 18mm
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-par...556772788~feb/

over the 16mm
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/33556754823/

I'm not sure if this is my problem yet.

 

Also, it kinda looks like these need to be installed with grease. Did you both use bushing grease?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-powerfle...ease/pcg1~pfx/

 

theyre coming in next week! I’m just gonna try and see how it goes.
it really isn’t hard from the videos I’ve seen. Take off tire, remove two bolts, replace bushing, reinstall two bolts, put back tire.

 

I haven’t heard that before.
i found this thread for whatever it is worth:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...sway_bar_bushi

 

I just looked into the product details on ECS:
That silicone grease is for polyurethane bushings.
the sway bar link bushing is rubber. So I would think no.

 

So there is a youtube video for this? I took a look under there and it looks like an X so it is attached top and bottom on each tire? I guess you need 4 then, not 2?

 

So the sound I hear seems to be happening just constantly while driving and the best way I can describe it, is that it sounds like the rear lift gate is not completely shut and so the smallest bump makes a creaking bump sound.

 

there are two of them total for mine:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1358

check your model if it is different.

I found this video to be helpful:

 

that is also what mine sounds like! But I’ve checked the tailgate and have verified that’s not the source of the noise.

 

Yeah, no way it is the lift gate because that closes solid. Also,you can tell it is slightly lower than the lift gate....like the tools at the bottom of the hatchback. Now, I suppose it could be that and I can try and remove those to see if it changes anything.

mine looks like this>
https://new.minimania.com/Mini_Coope...e_Control_Arms


What am I trying to fix?

 

Check Upper shock mounts. They can cause this noise if worn or slightly loose. Chased this issue on my 2007 R56 for some time before installing powerflex mounts. Problem solved.

 

I just had them the upper shock mounts replaced back in May with lemfordelar. Could they have been installed too loosely?

 

Good short video. That looks easier than the Pelican Parts method. He only has a short snippet of the sound but that sounds like the sound.

 

The Bushing looks like a cheaper and easier fix to start with according to that video. I shined a light up there and I can see the rubber is dry, hard, cracked and basically looks done. The bushing clamp and bolts have a lot of rust on them so it needs to be taken out, derusted, primed and repainted. My biggest fear will be the threads or heads are rusted off the bolts. I hear this sound without even going over a noticeable bump. I looked at the shock and I can see the top of the shock is not touching the body. The driver's side shock looks like it is in very good condition. The passenger side doesn't look as good. However, both look better than the front shocks. My plan is to replace the front shocks the same time as the brakes and the rear shock the same time as the rear brakes. Front brakes are nearly worn, <8000 miles left on those is my guess.

 

Fixros, If the shock mounts were not tightened enough, or have loosened a bit this could be the issue. I had 1 of mine start making some noise after installing the powerflex shock mounts. Had to remove an re-tighten. The least amount of movement in that upper mount will cause a rattle/clunk noise. Some mechanics I know advise using an impact wrench to tighten sufficiently.

 

which one? #10 bolts or #12 nut?
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1357

 

#12 nut. And don’t use an impact wrench
as spinning the shaft is not good for
the shock. Hold the shaft with an allen
and use a thin walled offset wrench
or 1/2 inch drive socket with the
allen up through it or one of the
special sockets with an opening in their
side to tighten the nut.
#10 bolts are pretty easy to torque
properly and snugly.

 

Number 10 are the 2 bolts that hold the rear shock/ Mount assy. to the body. Number 12 is the nut that holds the mount assy. to the shock itself. This is the nut I was Refering to.

 

Thank you cristo and JB160!

I had this installed by my MINI guy in town, who usually does real good work. My plan is to change the bushings since they are already en route to see if that fixes it.
Would it be worth bringing it by the mechanic to ask them to check their work/diagnose the noise?