Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Rear Brake Caliper

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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 10:33 AM
  #1  
dbakewell's Avatar
dbakewell
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Rear Brake Caliper

Team,

Car: 2011 MINI Cooper Clubman S Miles: 75,000

Question: I am trying to replace my rear brake pads, but I cannot get the caliper to retract at all. I am using the tool that both rotates and compresses the caliper. I have disconnected the parking brake. I have the bleeder value open and it bleeds lightly. I am at a loss on ideas. Do I need to replace the caliper? Any advice or tricks?

David
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 06:11 PM
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mkov608
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You don't need to open the bleeder to get the piston back into the caliper. The piston will force the fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure the cap is off the reservoir and it isn't full so you don't have an overflow mess. Do you have a Bentley service manual? Is the piston dust seal torn?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 07:38 PM
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dbakewell
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No, I have not solved the problem yet. I don't have a Bentley service manual. I was following a YouTube video on changing the brake pads. I am not sure now if that was a bright idea. Someone on FB thinks the piston got pushed out to far. This could make sense, I was doing this job on the ground and had the parking brake engaged. I think when I pulled the caliper off the rotor the parking brake cable move the piston out. If this happened, I would think I could manually rotate and compress the piston back in place but it will not move at all. I was thinking of disconnecting the caliper and draining the fluid in hope it might start moving again, but then I would have to bleed the system. Any advice is appreciated.

David
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 08:03 PM
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mkov608
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Try this:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...brakes/4KHO19z
 
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 05:46 PM
  #5  
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jackski2
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I kind of went through the same thing on one caliper. When using the tool, do NOT tighten the adjuster, leave about .020 of slack. You are trying to wind it in not push it in. If you have already tightened it like I think you did you will have to push the piston out a little before you try to wind it in. The threads inside are not great so they jam easily if pushed in before they are turned.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 03:44 PM
  #6  
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Thanks for that explanation; I had a similar very tough time retracting one rear piston the last time I did the brakes and now I know why!
 
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Old Sep 18, 2018 | 07:22 AM
  #7  
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dmyer
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It can be stiff at first.... but once it starts winding back in it will go all the way.... good luck!! Make sure the boot area is clean first and be gentle so you do not damage it.
 
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