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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
Well another day and another problem. So I’m hearing a loud whoosh fro the engine. Like a huge vacuum leak. It seems to be echoing through the near grill fresh air intake as well. So I’m familiar with how these valve covers usually go which is through the enclosed pcv system and that sound is very different. I know because I had that issue before and replaced the valve cover several years ago and that fixed it. This is much different. Much louder.
I’m looking at the valve cover and I don’t think it’s fitting correctly. Looking where it meets the cyl head you can see some wider gaps in some areas and some areas it’s flush with no gaps. I know at least 2 threads are stripped. The back right had a coil in it which half of it broke and came out after removing cover. That coil was put in by machine shop. The other is the center hole on the chain side. That coil I tried to put in and I totally messed it up. The coil is sticking out a bit and must’ve been the wrong size because it wrecked the bolt threads on instal. This must be part of the problem but it doesn’t explain why there’s a visible gap on front right and front left. Didn’t look at the back.
After pulling the valve cover it was clearly not down all the way because I saw a lot of oil on the cyl head where gasket touches it. A lot of oil. I also noticed the bolt hole inserts weren’t flush. They are sticking out at bit on the sealing side. Some are flush, one is recessed, the rest stick out a bit. Is it normal for those inserts to stick out a bit? See picture
Just realized the loud wishing air noise isn’t coming from valve cover. This is something else. I noticed I forgot to tighten the hot side tube on turbo. It’s fits snug without tightening clamp. I guess I’ll find out when I start it again but I gotta figure out valve cover sealing issue. Damn I hope it’s just that loose clamp.
Regardless of the wooshing noise I think that valve cover isn’t sealing and still need to know how those inserts in the cover sit and how a property sealing cover fits. Like, is the plastic cover supposed to fit flush on head? When I set cover on with no bolts the gasket touches everywhere. It’s just sitting lightly on the gasket and there is a large gap. After tightening down the gaps significantly decrease but the plastic cover doesn’t touch the head everywhere. I’m wondering if I’m addition to the 2 bad threads if those inserts are preventing the cover from fully squeezing down the cover.
If those inserts aren't flush how would you ever get a proper seal?
from time-sert website:The hole being repaired is shorter, than the length of your shortest insert?One possible solution. The hole being repaired has a depth shorter than the length of our shortest insert. There are a few cases where we do not have a short enough insert for a particular application. For example: trying to repair a hole 5/16-18 our shortest length insert is .350 inches and the hole depth is .250 inches deep. You can install a TIME-SERT without using a counterbore. Leaving the shoulder sticking up to remove later on by milling or filing.
One possible suggestion on this type of installation.
1) Drill hole (2) Tap hole (3) let insert set up with locktite (4) install insert (5) file insert flush.
Drill the hole out, "DO NOT" use counterbore tool, tap the hole.
On installation: Screw the insert in the hole with loctite to the desired location. Let the insert set up with the loctite before running the insert driver tool through the insert. The loctite will prevent the insert from going to deep into the prepared hole.
Use the driver tool to expand the last few threads of the inserts.
The insert will now be protruding or sticking up higher in the hole, you will have to "file down" or mill the top of the insert to get the insert flush with the surface. It's recommended to run the insert driver back through the insert to clean any burs at the top of the insert. The repair is complete.
If those inserts aren't flush how would you ever get a proper seal?
from time-sert website:The hole being repaired is shorter, than the length of your shortest insert?
The hole isn’t to short. I should’ve been more specific. I just couldn’t get the coil in all the way. It got very tight very quickly and the tang broke off. This this why it stuck above the hole. The width of the coil fits inside the bolt bolts of valve cover so the gasket touches everywhere. I bought a kit with drill bit and tap. Followed instructions but still messed it up. I don’t know maybe I got the wrong size tap from them. That coil just wouldn’t screw in. The other coil was done perfectly by a shop, it just broke in half when unscrewing valve cover. Part of the spring came out with the bolt.
Since mines all apart, I took a look at the VC inserts --- they're all flush with the mounting surface, no protrusions. Mine has been replaced a couple times, so it's not OEM, just latest version from local dealer. Any chance you can return yours for a replacement? Or, maybe the inserts worked loose and need to be reseated? Last resort --- grind them down to be flush?
Hope you're being careful when working with helicoils --- drill residue can do lotsa damage in the valve chamber.
I’ve got a couple helicoil in and popped out the inserts and drilled out the holes a little bit so the inserts fit flush. I think heat over the years has deformed the holes just a bit so that the inserts don’t fit flush. It’s a temporary fix. I will get new vc once I figure out this loud air noice. I’m gonna start another thread for it.
08-14-2018, 07:21 PM
