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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Hi all. I took off my oil cooler from the housing and It needs to be replaced I'm pretty sure. My next question is, with the condition of the cooler should I be concerned about the condition or seals for the housing as well? Or leave it alone.. I don't wana pull anything off I don't have to but it also wasnt a pretty sight
I took off my oil cooler from the housing and It needs to be replaced I'm pretty sure. My next question is, with the condition of the cooler should I be concerned about the condition or seals for the housing as well? Or leave it alone.. I don't wana pull anything off I don't have to but it also wasnt a pretty sight.
What makes you certain the cooler has failed?
You may have an oil leak elsewhere, and its blown all over the cooler during driving. A failed cooler would allow oil into the coolant which would be apparent in the coolant expansion tank in the form of a tan-colored milkshake-looking goop.
MINIs can and will leak oil over time as the various seals and gaskets harden with age and lose their sealing ability. It's always good to go through all the oil-related seals/gaskets and change them out. These include the oil housing gasket, the two oil cooler o-rings, valve cover gasket, camshaft sensor o-ring, crankshaft seal, crankshaft sensor o-ring, oil pan gasket and less likely, the timing cover gasket. If several are leaking, you'll have no idea where the oil is coming from. Try and degrease everything while you're in there so new oil seepage will be more easily traced to the source.
Now that you've removed your oil cooler, clean it up and do make sure to replace both round cooler seal rings (p/n 11427509261) as they've likely become brittle and leak oil.
You may have an oil leak elsewhere, and its blown all over the cooler during driving. A failed cooler would allow oil into the coolant which would be apparent in the coolant expansion tank in the form of a tan-colored milkshake-looking goop.
MINIs can and will leak oil over time as the various seals and gaskets harden with age and lose their sealing ability. It's always good to go through all the oil-related seals/gaskets and change them out. These include the oil housing gasket, the two oil cooler o-rings, valve cover gasket, camshaft sensor o-ring, crankshaft seal, crankshaft sensor o-ring, oil pan gasket and less likely, the timing cover gasket. If several are leaking, you'll have no idea where the oil is coming from. Try and degrease everything while you're in there so new oil seepage will be more easily traced to the source.
Now that you've removed your oil cooler, clean it up and do make sure to replace both round cooler seal rings (p/n 11427509261) as they've likely become brittle and leak oil.
I'm not sure it's broken, I'm trying to diagnose the problem myself without having to take it in to the dealer (and not having much luck) and read a forum on someone having that broken part, and felt my symptoms were similar. And when I got to it and it looked like that I assumed the worst. The coolant in the expansion tank is always the color it should be. as is my oil when I check it as I have been everyday because I'm worried about it ;( is there a way to know if the oil cooler in particular has gone bad? i have the intake to the supercharger off, and there was pure bright green coolant in the end that takes air in. Not a significant amount, but also not good. car has been overheating after being on for barely enough time for it to even get hot in my opinion, has a cyl 1 misfire, and for some reason lost power the other day and I parked it and haven't driven it since.
...is there a way to know if the oil cooler in particular has gone bad?
My oil cooler failed about two years ago. The whole process - from discovery to diagnosis to repair is documented in THIS thread.
And that CV joint of yours, spewing grease, coating everything around it as it spins isn't helping things. Axle has to come off to fix or replace it, which would be your best opportunity to pull the oil filter housing for a gasket change, as with the axle in place, is very fiddly to get to. With axle removed, the job becomes exponentially easier.
My oil cooler failed about two years ago. The whole process - from discovery to diagnosis to repair is documented in THIS thread.
And that CV joint of yours, spewing grease, coating everything around it as it spins isn't helping things. Axle has to come off to fix or replace it, which would be your best opportunity to pull the oil filter housing for a gasket change, as with the axle in place, is very fiddly to get to. With axle removed, the job becomes exponentially easier.
thank you so much! At this point, I think I'm going to replace just the seals of the oil cooler, instead of the whole thing, do the seals/gasket on the housing, and the water pump and thermostat and hope that helps the over heating. as for the boot-- are you saying I should replace the CV joint as well?
...as for the boot-- are you saying I should replace the CV joint as well?
The entire axle needs to come out whether you replace the boots alone or the whole axle. Most of the grease within the leaking boot has likely leached out and/or has been diluted with water from driving in the rain. Because of that, there may be damage to the rollers and housing inside from excess wear and lack of lubrication.
If reusing, you would need to repack the inner rollers and housing with axle grease then replace both rubber boots and clamps.
Obviously, purchasing a new axle would solve everything, as you would just have to slide in the new axle, and you're done. Much less work.
Unless you're buying the axle from MINI, aftermarket new axles are not too bad, price-wise, but I wouldn't go too cheap.
Again, this would be the ideal time to pull the oil filter housing to replace the housing to block gasket. With axle in place, it's much more of a chore.
I replaced mine with remanufactured units from RockAuto. Get the ones that require a core deposit. Trying to replace just the boot is not worth it, in my opinion.
I replaced mine with remanufactured units from RockAuto. Get the ones that require a core deposit. Trying to replace just the boot is not worth it, in my opinion.
ended up going with complete new axels.. bought drivers side one too just because if I'm replacing one why not do the other 🤔 getting the axel nut loose was a PITA and a half... I can NOT get the half of the axel that is clipped to the tranny side... I don't have power tools but at this point I think I might have to get some unless anyone has suggestions on getting it out with simple tools?
You need a pry bar or big screwdriver to pry the axle away from the trans. Just pry between the axle and the trans housing. A clip holds the axle in the transmission just takes some prying to pop it free. I noticed the polish on your nails. Your a gal and not many gals tackle these types of jobs. You are to be congratulated and admired! Good luck!
I would do the housing o-rings while you're in there.
The cooler doesn't look blown as the oil on it and your hands doesn't show any sign of moisture.
You need a CV boot as every one points out.
If you already have the new cooler then toss it on after you do the housing o-rings and clean the crap out of everything so it'll be easier to diagnose your issues.
I would do the housing o-rings while you're in there.
The cooler doesn't look blown as the oil on it and your hands doesn't show any sign of moisture.
You need a CV boot as every one points out.
If you already have the new cooler then toss it on after you do the housing o-rings and clean the crap out of everything so it'll be easier to diagnose your issues.
i did buy two new o rings for the oil cooler to housing, didn't buy a new oil cooler just gave it a really good cleaning, and crossing my fingers this one is ok but as you said the oil did look okay. The fluids everywhere in the car (oil, coolant) look just fine too. I bought a new gasket for the oil filter housing to block, was trying to get the filter housing off and I couldn't anywhere find the third bolt.. I know they are kind of in a triangle shape, but even trying to follow that I could only find the two.
...was trying to get the filter housing off and I couldn't anywhere find the third bolt.. I know they are kind of in a triangle shape, but even trying to follow that I could only find the two.
Study the photo below which should help in finding the bolts.
The top bolt (#1, kind of within a channel) is almost directly above the oil pressure sensor.
You'll have to remove the heat shield which attaches to the housing to get to this one
From the bottom, especially if you have the axle out, you should see one of the two bottom bolts (#2, lower corner).
The second of the two bottom bolts (#3, the longest of the three) sits in a crevice just under the oil filter cap and behind the cooler.
Study the photo below which should help in finding the bolts.
The top bolt (#1, kind of within a channel) is almost directly above the oil pressure sensor.
You'll have to remove the heat shield which attaches to the housing to get to this one
From the bottom, especially if you have the axle out, you should see one of the two bottom bolts (#2, lower corner).
The second of the two bottom bolts (#3, the longest of the three) sits in a crevice just under the oil filter cap and behind the cooler.
thank you sooo much! Bolts 1 &2 I got out, I didn't even think to look right there for the 3rd bolt 🤣
granted I was directly underneath the car looking at it from a different angle, but this was so helpful thank you thank you
It's a bit of a pain to get at. Following ModMini's advice, I used 3x 9" extensions and went after it from behind the subframe. That was enough to get that bolt loose.
Good luck getting everything back together, though. Took me the better part of an hour just to get one bolt started.
It's a bit of a pain to get at. Following ModMini's advice, I used 3x 9" extensions and went after it from behind the subframe. That was enough to get that bolt loose.
Good luck getting everything back together, though. Took me the better part of an hour just to get one bolt started.
now that I know where that third one is I'm gonna try it again here in the next few days. the front end is practically pulled apart I have a lot I'm trying to figure out. while doing that I found that boot and oil cooler needed some attention as well.
07-23-2018, 12:02 PM
was actually a very pretty ombré of magenta & purple glitter but... didn't last long 😂😂*
