Howdy all. I recently picked up a 2012 Cooper s. It was a flood total loss and I'm trying to fix it. It's in awesome condition minus the water damage issues. No dents on the entire body.

Does anyone know where I can find wiring diagrams and pin outs for the modules?


currently the only things that work with the car on are the folding mirrors and the map reading lights and I do believe the dome light when the door is opened. I would like to start the drying process but I cant get the windows or hatch to open. And the remote will not unlock the doors or when it's pressed into the "ignition" I get zero noises,lights, or activity from the dash. I am pretty much assuming that the body control module (or as I believe it's called here a frm3? Is dead but I can't tell for sure if I can't get the key on to accessory. Between the flood and the battery being completely dead at around 1 volt I'm betting the body module is junk.

so far my first step is to check the FOB and replace the battery. I know its a" non replaceable" battery but I have nothing to loose. Then work my way around via a schematic to narrow down the issues. The reason of me thinking the FOB is dead is it looks like it was in the car during the flood.

I currently have the battery on a charger and will try it with a known good battery in place of the battery that came with it to make sure it's not a battery issue.

 

Sorry i posted it where this belongs. I saw other posts like it and didn't realize it was to be in the other section.

 

For this issue I would buy a Bentley Manual.

 

Thanks I will have to look for one.

 

Check out my "started threads" in my profile. I did a number of flooded minis

 

Here is a pic of it. Thanks I will check out your posts when I get a chance to get on my desktop.

 

 

Oh nice...also PA inspection, your probably around the corner from me..lol

Looking the headlights, it seems the water got to the middle of them. Right?

 

It was higher. There is dirt in the Speedo. Of which there wasn't a pic of during th auction. They had a side shot of the tach and it was steamed so I kinda thought it may halve been around that level but couldn't tell for sure. I'm in Somerset county not far from the md line.

I tore apart the FOB to check the voltage. It's at 2.98v on a 3v battery. So I have it charging as I type. I'm pretty sure it is transmitting as the voltage drops when I press a button. I do not have a spectrum analyzer and I don't feel like trying to catch it on my scope as I think it's working fine. I figured I will give it some charge time while it's apart just for giggles. The start battery I think is beyond saving. It's been on my low amp charger for 24hrs and still hasn't hit float mode. So I will be putting a battery out of my jetta in it just to do some checking for relay noses and so on as I start figuring this out.

 

Good progress...once you get to the car, remember to remove the spark plugs in case water got inside. Also drain the oil anyway and be ready for two or three oil changes. Lastly, check ATF.

 

already planned. I will be draining it later today and replacing it with the old oil from my girlfriends elantra so it has at least non moisture contaminated oil. I'm thinking about just hot jumping the starter with jumper cables so i can get it to turn it over with the plugs out. So in case there happens to be moister in there it can expel most of it and along with that atleast circulate the fresh used oil through it until i make it far enough for it to actually be started. I'll probably fill the cylinders with oil or wd40 so it keeps them from getting worse until i get it started also.
I also found this lol

No need for ATF, its a manual, unless the manual trans runs ATF?

 

Good plan...the manual transmission has fluid in it of course but same happened on my automatic transmission, water got inside.

Most electronics will be replaced so embrace for impact.

Since you're investing in this car, it is a must to have bmw/mini programming tools.

 

What programming tools do you recommend?

Another update. I tried the recharged key. When i connect the battery i hear things working like a stong buzz, and then about 5 or so seconds later a flop, almost like a butterfly falling shut in the throttle body noise. So with that said. Upon key insertion i don't notice anything, everything it still dead but thats most likely due to the pulled PRM3 But anyway, when i push the start button to turn on accessory power, i hear a noise that sounds simillair to the noise when i first hook the battery and i also beleive there is a faint relay click coming from somewhere in the back?

So it appears that maybe it is at least reading the key, or i wouldn't think when i pushed the start button that it would do anything?

 

You would need WinKfp, NCS expert, ISTAD, and ISTAP.

 

Thanks. I figured that's what you were referring to, but i wanted to make sure. I will check into them. I already have the dongle i believe my vagcom dongle will work with them.

I tinkered a little this morning after work with a limited amount of time. I noticed the start button was illuminated, and that the ODB port is getting power but my torque app won't connecting to the ecu. So either the ecu is junked, or my app is just being difficult which it has done previously now and then. But i have seen many people on the forums mention the torque app and the mini's so i think it should work. Maybe the pins need some cleaning.

I looked over your flooded posts and didn't see you replacing the CAS module, or if you did i missed it.

Do you think it is better to contact one of the salvage networks for a "package" deal price on all of the modules i will need? or just piece them together from multiple places. Depending on that price, i may be better off just picking up a beyond repairable as a donor, as i'm pretty sure i'm going to find more things that are needed later on as I believe the speedo/radio combo got wet as well along with the tach.

Sorry for the ramblings this is my first rebuilt of such and its a thinking out loud type of situation while looking for input. lol

 

Here's some wiring diagrams, if you don't already have them. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r56-cooper-s-hat/

 

Thanks, that will actually help out alot.

 

All of the cars I had acquired were below that line. The highest was The countryman were it reached mid door high.

I tried package deals with one vendor and boy he wasnt cheap. I had to buy from him because he was the only one that has a mini with matching part numbers.

you can use realoem.com to cross reference part numbers by the way. I think the best economical way is to first identify damaged modules, make a list with name and part number, then either sent it to vendors for quotes or buy one at a time.

as I mentioned before, your gate to other modules, is the fuse box (JBE).

 

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I should have my ista up and running within the next week hopefully. I'm hoping I can connect to the car and get some answers on what is needed. I'm pretty much 100% in need of the frm. I was on that website and put my frm part number in. I am a little confused on the terminology they use. Bilatterally exchangeable I guess is usable no problem? And exchangeable retrospectively means?

 

these get me too...lol

your safest bet for now is match the numbers. check ebay and car-part.com.

while you wait for the software, I suggest looking for a fuse box. the car can wont run without it.

 

Ok I have been meaning to ask you about the fuse box. I was wondering if they look like inside. If it could just be pulled and cleaned?

 

it is similar to the FRM with more circuitry. Cleaning it wont do it...when it was energized and water started seeping in, cpu's might've gotten shorted and with corrosion, it might be beyond repair. you could try but I doubt it working right.

 

Ok I didn't realize it had anything other that plain connection traces and thought it to be more like a distribution block. I will pull it out asap and grab a part number to start searching. I have to play musical cars so I can put it in the garage and get it off of the trailer. Work has been holding the project back

 

Update, I have been fairly productive with the minimal time i have had to spend on it. I got the front and rear seats removed, along with the carpet. I also removed the fuse box so i could get the part # I located one luckily on ebay along with a gamble for a replacement FRM that i'm taking a stab at it working since it was $29 with shipping, I'm not worried about the the actually part working, mainly the compatibility of that version with the one i need.

I also unhooked the inter-cooler in case there was water in it, dumped out the old oil and added "fresh" used oil and jumped the starter to push the moister out of the cylinder. The odd thing is it blew oil all over the underside of my open garage door lol. Not thinking about it shooting that high or expecting oil to be in the cylinder. So I'm wondering if someone pulled the plugs and added oil? I have no idea how any other way oil would have been in the cylinders. I ran it for 20-30 seconds at a time letting it cool a little to cycle the oil around. Then i added a few caps of new oil to each cylinder and bumped it over a little at a time to work it around the cylinders. I'm hoping to have the new FRM and fuse box by the middle of next week along with my ista and cable so my fingers are crossed i can get it to fire up and start oil changes to get it cleaned up. Then i will move onto the other modules and stuff that need replaced.

 

You're moving in the right direction my friend.

Consider checking the timing chain tensioner. If it is the short version, get it replaced. Check the condition of the rails as well.