Electrical info/ questions.
I will check them out, i will have to look up what the short one looks like. I'm a newb lol. Is the valve cover gasket reusable?
Last edited by mustang_gt_350; Jul 27, 2018 at 01:12 PM.
The factory tensioner supposedly has a notch on it. But if you slowly take it out and measure it, it would be 78mm. The new ones are 82mm.
yes the valve cover gasket is reusable.
yes the valve cover gasket is reusable.
Ok thanks. Now I'm assuming that I need to buy oem and not aftermarket If it is the short one? I know I have had issues with my TDI with aftermarket timing tensioners and idlers.
it has a burger tuning box on it also. I forgot to mention that in previous posts. But so far that and the aem intake is all that I can find that has been modded.
it has a burger tuning box on it also. I forgot to mention that in previous posts. But so far that and the aem intake is all that I can find that has been modded.
I got the replacement JBE (exact part # match) installed this eve. Along with the replacement FRM but should work if i understand that swap page right lol. Anyway. the dome/ambient lighting works now when the doors are opened. The remote will lock and unlock with the bottoms, but it will not open the hatch. The 4 ways will work, but no turn signals, parking or headlights along with no power locks or windows up and down. So I'm making some progress at least the 4 ways work lol they did not before.
I didn't have a ton of time to actually get a pattern to this, but I hear what sounds like a servo running now and then under the hood. Sometimes its when i open or close the door i believe? and it does it when i first connect the battery terminals.
Upon insertion of the "key" into the dash, i do not hear a fuel pump prime, and no dash lights ect. This does not change with me pressing the start/stop button, or doing so with the clutch pressed or not pressed, and along with e brake set on or off. Now i do have the interior pulled to dry it out so the airbag module and all of the connections up the center console except the parking brake one (wasn't sure if that would effect anything so i hooked up up as a last try for the eve) Along with no seats so they aren't connected. So, I'm leaning to believe that the CAS is junked, and it is not reading the key allowing it to activate the DME, since there is no pump prime, dash lights, or wipers/windows?
Looks like the dash will be coming apart tomorrow or the next time i get a chance to mess with it so i can look up part numbers.
I have seen whole ECU, CAS, and key sets on ebay. Can they be directly swapped as a set with minimal programming except for the FRM?
I may be off on this, but if the CAS is what energizes the ECU, do you know what pins it uses so i can see if its doing so and its just not a bad ECU?
Also, I'm still working on the software setup for my laptop and cable, but my Torque app still will not connect to the ECU, another theory that it is not powering on, however there is power at the port to power the adaptor, its just not connecting to the ECU.
I didn't have a ton of time to actually get a pattern to this, but I hear what sounds like a servo running now and then under the hood. Sometimes its when i open or close the door i believe? and it does it when i first connect the battery terminals.
Upon insertion of the "key" into the dash, i do not hear a fuel pump prime, and no dash lights ect. This does not change with me pressing the start/stop button, or doing so with the clutch pressed or not pressed, and along with e brake set on or off. Now i do have the interior pulled to dry it out so the airbag module and all of the connections up the center console except the parking brake one (wasn't sure if that would effect anything so i hooked up up as a last try for the eve) Along with no seats so they aren't connected. So, I'm leaning to believe that the CAS is junked, and it is not reading the key allowing it to activate the DME, since there is no pump prime, dash lights, or wipers/windows?
Looks like the dash will be coming apart tomorrow or the next time i get a chance to mess with it so i can look up part numbers.
I have seen whole ECU, CAS, and key sets on ebay. Can they be directly swapped as a set with minimal programming except for the FRM?
I may be off on this, but if the CAS is what energizes the ECU, do you know what pins it uses so i can see if its doing so and its just not a bad ECU?
Also, I'm still working on the software setup for my laptop and cable, but my Torque app still will not connect to the ECU, another theory that it is not powering on, however there is power at the port to power the adaptor, its just not connecting to the ECU.
you have to replace the AC/Windows switch and also possibly the sport/dcs buttons by the shifter. Did you check the relays next to the ECU? did you confirm the started isnt seized? if the CAS is junked, you could still get it cloned using a CAS3 programmer. Using an ECU/CAS/Key set will work BUT the issue with that is you will inherit the mileage and whet ever codes stored in that ECU (hopefully it doesnt come with an internal fault due to a sever front end collision)
I will be in MD (near #2 Montgomery Village Ave Gaithersburg, MD 20879) on Monday for a job interview, I could swing by when i finish (around noon/afternoon time frame) and take a look if you want.
I will be in MD (near #2 Montgomery Village Ave Gaithersburg, MD 20879) on Monday for a job interview, I could swing by when i finish (around noon/afternoon time frame) and take a look if you want.
I figured i would have to replace the switches and buttons for the a/c and heater stuff. I haven't really gotten to them as i would rather try to get it to running before i start doing the less essential replacements. I Will have to take a look at the relays next to the ECU again. I looked over them but maybe i missed something. I haven't really had a whole lot of time to mess with the car. I probably only have about 4 hours in it so far and that was removing the seats,interior and cleaning out as much water as i could as i went and just looking over the car to try to familiarize myself with it.
The starter isn't seized, It works when i manually jump the signal wire.
I would assume that the ecm has to be powered up for the scanning software of any kind to connect to it correct? And since my laptop with the bmw software isn't up and running yet, i have another question. If one module is not working/conecting will it connect to the FRM, or the CAS if they are? Meaning if my ecu is fried, but the cas is good it will still connect to the cas, or if the CAS and the ECU are both fried it will read the FRM? I'm just a little in the dark on how this software works and what all does what.
I really appreciate the offer for the stop in. But I'm not sure if i can make Monday work as I'm on a different schedule for work for training and i'm unsure on what time i would be home.
Thanks again for your help. I'm hoping to get some time where i can spend a few hours on the car and get more into it.
The starter isn't seized, It works when i manually jump the signal wire.
I would assume that the ecm has to be powered up for the scanning software of any kind to connect to it correct? And since my laptop with the bmw software isn't up and running yet, i have another question. If one module is not working/conecting will it connect to the FRM, or the CAS if they are? Meaning if my ecu is fried, but the cas is good it will still connect to the cas, or if the CAS and the ECU are both fried it will read the FRM? I'm just a little in the dark on how this software works and what all does what.
I really appreciate the offer for the stop in. But I'm not sure if i can make Monday work as I'm on a different schedule for work for training and i'm unsure on what time i would be home.
Thanks again for your help. I'm hoping to get some time where i can spend a few hours on the car and get more into it.
Awesome. thanks a bunch. I got nscexpert, winkfp, and inpa Installed today. I will be attempting the ista's in the next day or 2 as i get time. I'm anxious to see what happens when i get a chance to hook up to it now that the new JBE is in, i tore it apart, I never expected to see that much advanced circuitry inside of that.
I got a chance to tinker with it for about an hr this eve. I pulled the covers from the front 2 relays under the hood. R1 and r2 I believe they were. They are both the engine relays if I read correctly. Relay 1 closes when the I press the unlock on the remote and I can hear some thing buzzing very near the ecu area. If I do nothing the relay opens until I press unlock or I think open/close the door then the relay closes again. Now, if I pull the contact open and bump it back closed while itbwas already activated i can hear the fuel pump prime. However, after a few minutes it will time out and will do nothing when insert the key or take out the key. The start stop button backlighting even turns off and won't relight when I insert the key.
I am unable to find the n18 option on my inpa so I can't get it to connect, but it is showing the battery indicator but will NOT show ignition indicator as being active on the inpa "home" screen for lack of better term.
I can get NCS to read the vin on the new FRM and the vin on the CAS. I'm not familiar much with it so that's all the farther I have managed to stumble my way into.
I need to get my ISTA installed so I can try that also.
I need to do some research and familliarization with the software to see if I can test if the key is actually being read to see if it's the actual key slot reader or if it's the CAR.
I am unable to find the n18 option on my inpa so I can't get it to connect, but it is showing the battery indicator but will NOT show ignition indicator as being active on the inpa "home" screen for lack of better term.
I can get NCS to read the vin on the new FRM and the vin on the CAS. I'm not familiar much with it so that's all the farther I have managed to stumble my way into.
I need to get my ISTA installed so I can try that also.
I need to do some research and familliarization with the software to see if I can test if the key is actually being read to see if it's the actual key slot reader or if it's the CAR.
Update. I found a old post mentioning that if the start button is held down it will crank the car over if you beleive you are having ignition switch issues.
So i placed the key into the slot but didn't fully insert it as it is supposed to be to start it, pressed in the clutch and held down the start button after around 12 seconds it cranked over. So i replaced the plugs and coils and removed my test leads and gator clips out of the way and tried it agian. It fired right up, smoked for about 30 seconds or so due to the oil i dumped down the cylinders, and continued to chug away with a miss and stumble. But I'm positive the stumble is from the outlet of the inter cooler being unhooked (to make sure no water was laying in the intercooler) and it not metering the air. I let it run for about 15 minutes and shut it down to look over things, dumped some marvel mystery oil into the engine oil and ran it for another 20 or so minutes and did a oil change.
Now all i need to do is clean up the floor, and start pulling stuff to match part numbers on the things i want/need to replace,obviously the ignition switch,the tach, speedo, radio, heater control, and whatever else as i start to button it up that i notice had the smoke washed out of it.
I made a video of the start process, but i didn't get a chance to upload it to youtube yet.
So i placed the key into the slot but didn't fully insert it as it is supposed to be to start it, pressed in the clutch and held down the start button after around 12 seconds it cranked over. So i replaced the plugs and coils and removed my test leads and gator clips out of the way and tried it agian. It fired right up, smoked for about 30 seconds or so due to the oil i dumped down the cylinders, and continued to chug away with a miss and stumble. But I'm positive the stumble is from the outlet of the inter cooler being unhooked (to make sure no water was laying in the intercooler) and it not metering the air. I let it run for about 15 minutes and shut it down to look over things, dumped some marvel mystery oil into the engine oil and ran it for another 20 or so minutes and did a oil change.
Now all i need to do is clean up the floor, and start pulling stuff to match part numbers on the things i want/need to replace,obviously the ignition switch,the tach, speedo, radio, heater control, and whatever else as i start to button it up that i notice had the smoke washed out of it.
I made a video of the start process, but i didn't get a chance to upload it to youtube yet.
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