Hey y'all. So I recently installed the aux adapter and have been dealing with the aux setting disappear when things are charging and playing at the same time. As dumb as this whole setup is, we must deal with it. The question is does installing the resistors/capacitors fix this issue, or only that stupid ground loop isolator? Is the "genuine mini" cable already fitted with the resistors? I'm sort of at a loss with all this stuff because electric isn't my thing.

 

I did the ground loop isolator as it was simply a plug and play item as i have a bluetooth module plugged in to my aux cable that requires power to run. This was the easiest way for me to to solve the issue.

 

Do you just have it sitting out? Glovebox? Link to bluetooth module?

 

The round puck is my bluetooth receiver held up by double sided tape. My aux cable is currently routed to come out in the below space where i have those 2 shelves at. Thats where i have everything plugged in at. I wanted the aux cable to be accessible in case i wanted to connect a phone, ipod, and etc to it. The placement of the puck works prefectly for me as its within reach if i need to answer a call or skip tracks.

All my wires are exposed right now until i decide on if i want to relocate them. The only downside to my setup is that i have to turn it on every time i want to use it.

Yes i used the factory aux cable, not something custom built as i have the factory 6 disc changer in the rear. The aux cable was a self install.

 

So if I'm understanding, you have aux cable in place of the cd changer, aux runs to below the switch controls, your bluetooth plugs into the aux and requires power, everything sits in that little cubby below switches?

 

I have the CD changer and the aux both installed and working, but otherwise you are correct on where everything is placed.

 

Interesting. I thought the aux port took the place of the cd changer.

I have my aux port mounted in the switch panel - a decision I've come to regret, actually. I wish I put it down by that shelf in the back to remove clutter around the shifter. In any case, is that ground loop isolator the only way around it? If so that's a massive bummer.

 

From what I've read is that the factory bluetooth will take the place of the changer, but you should be able to transplant the pins to the correct connector to retain the changer. Now if thats true or not i don't know.

The ground loop isolater will remove most of the hum and popping you get when having a device charging/powered and using the same device to push audio. I can not comment if it will take care of the issue with your cable disconnecting.

In my case i couldn't hear the hum when i plugged my phone in and had it charging. That could be partly due to my phone as i have an LG V20. If I plugged anything else in it would buzz and hum during silence in a track.

Are you using a factory cable or is it something that you made? I haven't had the factory cable cause the issue with the head unit dropping the connection with or without the isolator.