Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Need Some Of Your Expertise - code 2885

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Old May 20, 2018 | 05:18 PM
  #1  
SynginSky2010's Avatar
SynginSky2010
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Need Some Of Your Expertise - code 2885

Hi!! New to Mini Coopers’s, my history is in American muscle cars, so the Mini is definitely a new challenge!! I recently bought 2, a supercharged 2006 S with 150,000 miles and a turbo charged 2010 S with 78,000 miles, got a pretty good deal, $5,500 for the pair.

The 2006 is a winter project, but I would like to get the 2010 fully functional. I have been getting a half power engine light and code 2885, occasionally with code 287D, but not always. I know there’s a few threads on here about this damn code and I haven’t seen anything that’s a real solution.

i have checked all the normal issues associated with this code, turbo is fine, waste gage and vacuum good, replaced diverter valve just in case, replaced vacuum line, again, just in case and checked everything else I could think of...no dice.

i have a thought that it may be a bad Turbocharger Boost Solenoid Valve or Turbocharger Vacuum Reservoir, my question is, is there an easy way to get to these things to replace them or is it as big a PITA as it appears to be?

hope this is posted in the right place!!

Thanks!
Syn
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 05:21 PM
  #2  
Whine not Walnuts's Avatar
Whine not Walnuts
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
Going to move this one to the Gen2 Stock Problems/Issues section.
 
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Old May 22, 2018 | 11:00 AM
  #3  
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thefarside
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From: MA
Pressure converter failure will cause DTC 2885 also. It is located next to the Vacuum reservoir. It is slight easier to replace it from underneath the car as you won't need to remove the intake manifold.
 
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Old May 23, 2018 | 09:40 AM
  #4  
R53R56Will's Avatar
R53R56Will
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From: Suffolk UK
The pressure control valve is fairly easy to get at. Just remove the air filter box get a mirror and look under the manifold. There is enough slack in the wiring and vacuum pipes to it that u can pull it out into view to make it easier to disconnect.
When u have got it out it's easy to test. Get 2 insulated female spade connectors, hooks some wires up and slide the connectors over the pins. Now tap the other ends of the wires on to the battery, u should hear the solenoid move/click. You can further test this by putting a piece of vac pipe onto one of the connections and blowing down it while tapping the wires on the battery. If there is no flow through it when u tap the battery it's dead. Or if there is always flow then it's dead too.
Hope this helps
 
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Old May 24, 2018 | 02:31 AM
  #5  
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SynginSky2010
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Thanks guys!! I have been dreading making these repairs for a couple days, but, after reading your posts it doesn’t seem like it’s going to be a huge deal...I hope!,
 
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Old May 24, 2018 | 05:02 PM
  #6  
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Parts replacement complete, 50 miles of hard driving, no more 2885 code!! Thanks again for the help!!
 
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Old May 25, 2018 | 04:36 AM
  #7  
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From: MA
Speaking of hard driving Turning off DSC is well worthwhile in dry conditions. BMW set the slip threshold really low, so it can (and will) reduce the grin factor when you least want it to....
 
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Old May 25, 2018 | 07:07 AM
  #8  
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I guess I should have driven 51 miles, 2885 code back this AM...I am at a loss where to go from here...maybe worn or damaged turbo to downpipe gasket? I beat on it yesterday, repeated 0-100 accelerations, no code, moderate acceleration this AM, i get the code, I don't get it!! Fixing this can't be that big of a mystery!!
 
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Old May 26, 2018 | 02:15 AM
  #9  
robbo mcs's Avatar
robbo mcs
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I recommend you read this (if you haven't already)


http://jmtcperformance.com/publicati...ibility-error/


The list in there is pretty thorough. In addition to what is on the list, I have also seen a blocked / melted cat cause the code
 
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Old May 26, 2018 | 06:05 AM
  #10  
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Thanks!! I found that article a week or so ago and have been going through it one step at a time. I guesss I’m just confused as to how I can beat on the car HARD for 50 miles and not throw this code, but it shows up under old lady driving to church driving conditions!!

i guess she’s gonna have to go up on the ramps again, triple check all the vacuum lines, pull the vacuum pump again, drop and inspect the cat and gasket from the turbo to the downpipe and replace as needed!!

i want to go cat-less, but I live in New York so I’m nearly positive it’s illegal...is there a catted downpipe you guys would recommend just in case mine is wadded?
 
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Old May 29, 2018 | 06:05 AM
  #11  
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I changed the diverter valve first thing., but not the spring, is it possible the new spring just isn’t stiff enough and I should replace it with the Alta spring?
 
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