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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
I'm replacing my alternator tomorrow and I plan to put the car into front end service mode for the first time. Does anybody know what size/thread pitch bolts I need? I've seen M10 1.25 and M8 1.00 I'd like to not buy both if I can avoid it.
Push comes to shove drain the radiator and then swing it to the side, do not have to remove any AC hoses. I use a wet vacuum. Remove the bleeder screw just behind the radiator and pull from the plastic fill tank at the firewall. I wrap tape around the hose to build the size up so that there is a good seal. I then refill when done via the hose at the top of the radiator. A small funnel that fits in the bleed screw hole for top off. That way I don't worry about overfilling or underfilling.
yeah, worse comes to worst, I guess I will drain it an remove it, but it looks very doable with the car in front end service mode. I just don't know what size bolts to use.
...but it looks very doable with the car in front end service mode. I just don't know what size bolts to use.
If I understand you correctly, you're referring to the bolts you screw in to allow the radiator core support to slide outward, correct? If so, the ones I use are M8 (1.25) x 145mm long. They screw into holes that you remove shorter M8 bolts from when you remove the aluminum bumper. That portion of the video referenced above appears at 3:45 in.
I believe in that video (or maybe another), Mod MINI corrects himself on the mistaken suggestion to use 10mm bolts.
Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; 05-13-2018 at 06:06 PM.
Reason: Clarification
I haven't looked at realoem, I figured I could take the bolts out and take them to the store and match them up, but watching that video, it doesn't look like there's actually bolts in the holes that are used for front end service mode.
If I understand you correctly, you're referring to the bolts you screw in to allow the radiator core support to slide outward, correct? If so, the ones I use are M8 (1.25) x 145mm long. They screw into holes that you remove shorter M8 bolts from when you remove the aluminum bumper. That portion of the video referenced above appears at 3:45 in.
I believe in that video (or maybe another), Mod MINI corrects himself on the mistaken suggestion to use 10mm bolts.
Those are the ones! In the alternator one, he just says M10 and he even has it as text on the screen
Just thought I'd follow up with I bought some M8 1.25 x 120mm bolts at lowes today and they worked perfectly. I swapped out my crank position sensor o-ring and pulled my bad alternator, I'm just waiting on the UPS man to bring my replacement alternator and I can put the car back together. Now I just wish I hadn't found my clutch slave cylinder leaking fluid...
It has seen much better days. Most say after 70k you are on borrowed time. Detroit Tuned and Way Motors have their own repair shops, like to get their thoughts.
... and we never use bolts in service mode. it's easy ans just hangs in place. no extra costs.
Would the no-bolt be your approach for a 2012 R60 also? I've seen instructions online to use Device 813010 83-30-2-346-947 which is basically a couple of bolts on tubes, and then a strap at the top as well. I guess my concern is the R60 front end is perhaps too much weight to dangle off the frame, even if just nudged forward 10cm and using one bolt in the forward frame hole.
05-13-2018, 03:10 PM
