So yeah I have a few issues and not even sure where to start and how to narrow down to which one is the "main" issue.

Issues reported by Mini specialist:

1. Warped valve cover
2. Cracked intake manifold
3. Bad Turbo Boost Valve
4. Timing off

I brought the car in because it was running rough. Lurching when starting out from a start. This is my sister in laws car and I am trying to help her out and get it back on the road, and hopefully sell it for her. This is just not the car for someone who just wants to drive a car and has no idea how to maintain it. Although it is a blast to drive.

Anyway the shop quoted $2,500 to fix the above, and then won't even guarantee that will fix the issue. So I had them correct the timing and took it out. I changed the oil this weekend and while accessing the oil filter I noticed the air intake boot was not making a good seal where it connects to the turbo charger and was damaged. So we can add that to the list of things that need to be replaced.

Now none of these seem all that difficult to do, but I don't know really where to start or how to verify that each of these parts are really bad. I have reason to not fully trust the shop that gave us the quote.

So I am asking this forum for some advice on just how to approach this and hopefully get this Mini back on the road.

Thanks in advance for any advice you all can provide

 

welcome aboard... take a deep breath and pop your knuckles

let's start with the timing....what did the shop do? replace the timing kit or just re-adjust it? do you have a description of what they did?

did you have a check engine light? what were the codes?

are there any oil leaks around the valve cover indicating warp-age?

if the car is still with you, could you upload a short video here or link it to youtube?

finally, where are you located?

 

They re-adjusted the timing. According to them.

I did, and still do. Unfortunately I do not know the codes. Happy to buy a reader though if that would be the right approach

There seems to be a slight leak out the top, toward the passenger side. I cleaned it up while changing the oil to see if it re appears. Very slight though. No oil drips under the car.

I sure can. That is the good thing. I have the car and she has already bought a new car so I can take my time repairing it. I'll shoot some video tonight when I get home. Let me know what you'd like to see.

I am in Santa Clarita, CA. North Los Angeles County.

Thank you for your reply!!

 

how many miles on the car?

when you upload the vid, I would like to see the engine running, try to get more time around the intake manifold and the turbo inlet pipe. also, i would like if you can disconnect each spark plug wire one at a time while the car is running (checking for misfire) and note any engine "smoothness" change.

the shop should've scanned it and has a record of that. ask them for the codes. otherwise how did they now it was timing issue!

 

I can ask them, but it was a few weeks ago. I have reason to not trust the shop though so at this point I'd rather just do everything myself.

To explain why I don't trust this shop, I'll tell you they quoted $2,500 to fix the car and stated that might still not solve the problems because there are "metal shavings in the oil"

When I changed the oil this weekend I ran all of it through a fine screen, and some of it through a coffee filter and what do you know? no shavings.

 

if that is the case, buy an obd reader...i personally use carsoft i910. in the meantime, can you drive it to autozone or similar parts store for a free obd reading?

also what is the mileage?

 

I ordered one with 2 day delivery so I'll have codes on Thursday. I needed one anyway.

The car has 62,589 miles on the odo.

Thanks again for the help! I will get some video this evening.

 

As promised here is video/audio of the engine running.

 

when it took you three times to start, my impression is HPFP. there is still some rattle on the left side, am i correct? can you also try to disconnect one spark plug at a time to see if the engine sound changes?

 

Add High Pressure fuel pump to your list. Taking 3 tries to start is a dead give away. I bet you have P0300,P0301.P0302.P0303.P0304 Codes stored

 

Not sure what HPFP is but I'll look it up. And yes I totally forgot to pull the plug wires while it is running. I will do that tomorrow (too dark out now).

 

that is the high pressure fuel pump. right next to the vacuum pump.

 

Damn, that looks like a $400 item right outta the gate.

 

it might be covered under factory warranty. call the dealer and verify.

 

Ah ok very interesting.

So, my guess it that it would probably be best to get that replaced before messing with anything else?

 

Yeah id get that taken care of. If your lucky the dealer will replace for free.Very easy DIY but like you said its not cheap.

 

I'd fix that sloppy intake, High Pressure Fuel Pump and the Fuel Filter at a minimum. As stated, might be covered under recalls.

At 62k Miles, the fuel filter is probably done and the intake valves probably need a decarb.

From what you stated, I wouldn't trust that shop. It does sound like there's a leak around the valve cover but I doubt it's "warped".

 

I doubt it is warped too. But is there a way to tell? I don't mind taking it off but once I get it off will I be able to put a straight edge against it or anything? Or will I have to replace the gaskets and just hope?

I assume if I was to take the valve cover off, I might as well take the intake off at the same time. I am fairly certain if it is cracked I'd be able to find it. If it was cracked would it be repairable or is that a case where I would just buy a new intake and be done with it.

In any event I am going to find out if I can get the HPFP replaced at the dealer first and then drive the car and see if that has improved it. Then move on to the next thing after that.

 

I'd worry about that secondarily after the HPFP. The area as observable looks pretty good and the engine does not sound remarkably abnormal. No oil leaks at least on the front and no whistling indicating vacuum leaks or PCV issues. You could probably use a mirror to inspect the intake manifold without even removing it, or blow some smoke around to gauge any gross leaks or vacuum loss (On second thought, the Marlboro method isn't going to work with the cold air intake right there...)

Fix the obvious stuff first though as the above could be a red herring. Check the codes as stated. It will throw a specific HPFP failure code and result in individual cylinder misfire codes.

The only noise that concerns me is at the 1:22-1:32 mark where she seems to start to sputter. After a few more views of your vid, I am doubting its valve cover is related at all. That sputter could be from the HPFP and/or just the need to decarbonize the intake valves. In the meantime, some techron and tier one fuel could alleviate those symptoms a little bit but it's not going to fix it long term.

All in all the engine bay looks good for an 09.

 

While it very likely the HPFP is bad, I suggest you get a Bluetooth OBD II dongle and app for your phone, and monitor fuel pressure to confirm HPFP failure before you replace a $400 component that may be ok.

 

Actually I just spoke to my local Mini dealer and confirmed the HPFP is under warranty. I am bringing it to them tomorrow morning, and I assume they will test it and replace if bad.

So hopefully that is one step down!

Thank you everyone again for you help!!! This is great community. I'd have never figured this one out on my own.

 

Nice...good luck and keep us posted.

 

So the Mini dealer is charging me $61 for diagnostics, just to confirm the HPFP is bad, which it turns out it is. At least they are replacing it under warranty.

I got a message saying there are other issues with the car which they are going to list out for me, with an estimate I am sure.

Since I am already into them for $61 dollars and that can be applied to any work they perform i am thinking of allowing them to replace the blow off valve (or whatever it is called) and then just pay the difference for that work so that I get my moneys worth out of the diagnostic.

Then I can go to work on the remaining issues myself. Assuming there is nothing too difficult left to do.

 

Before letting them do any work, let them replace the HPFP first then allow you or them to clear codes and drive the car again to see if the other codes/issues were just an after math of bad HPFP. What ever they do, will be expensive so spending $61 isnt going to justify paying additional $800 for the "proposed" work.

On thing to keep in mind is they, unfortunately, are in thr businesses to make money not to look out for customers satisfaction.

please share with us what other issues they might find.

 

The dealer should not have charged you for diagnosing a part under warranty, at least I was not when my HPFP failed.


I would replace the diverter valve myself, not a hard task.