Driving to work this morning, the red oil light is coming on when I come to a stop, out of gear. Once I apply slight revs or into gear it goes off.
Anyone had an oil pump failure or is it more likely to be the sensor?

 

Consider the possibility you are low on oil?

Regards,
Jerry

 

I just went through this a month ago. I think the general consensus is 99% of the time its one of three things: low oil, the little spring in the oil filter housing is MIA (obviously if this appeared out of nowhere and not just after a change it isnt the spring), or the sensor is toast. Mine was the sensor. 25 bucks at the dealer, a 4 dollar socket at harbor freight, and a few hours of yelling at the lower heat shield later and its back to normal.

 

Yeah, 1st thing I checked, but nothing so simple I'm afraid I believe its an oil pressure light rather than level unfortunatly

 

Checked the oil level, its mid stick, so Ok, but will top a little when I get home. I have ordered a new sensor, but I'll check the filter spring tonight too, had an oil change 2 weeks ago but did a whole track weekend without incident just last weekend. Hence my concern.

 

Dont forget to disconnect the battery before screwing around with the heat shields. The lower one has a tendency to rub against the starter motor when you go to move it which could make for a fun evening.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong. Generally when a red oil light comes up it usually mean you have an oil pressure issues. I wouldn't drive the car until it is resolved.

 

Could be nothing but could be a major issue . . . . . .

 

I have an '03 MCS - 110k miles, and the oil light has started to flicker at idle about 3k miles ago, now solid on.
0) Replaced and flushed all fluids - and the oil was not low
1) Replaced the oil pressure sensor - no joy.
2) Screwed a mechanical gauge into the oil pressure switch port on the coil cooler / filter assembly - yup, at idle, when warmed up, < 2 psi, anything above idle, it jumped up.
3) I replaced the oil cooler - it was completely clogged as was the heater core. Negligible change, nice to have heat again
4) Replaced the oil pump and return assembly - no change
5) Changed to 20W50 oil (summertime) full synth as always, oil light back to flickering.

Came to the realization it is worn bearings. Solution - bottom end rebuild.
Only came to that conclusion after changing everything else in the oil path, though. Kind of a pita to do the rebuild, but its a solid car.

 

20W50 is very thick for Mini. Have you read up on the infamous oil filter housing drain back valve failure? If not do that first. I am sick and tire of writing advices about it to each of these low oil pressure episode. There should be a sticky on this subject, but I know no one reads stickies, especially noobs.

You might find one of my replies to this subject faster if you check my posts with "oil" keywords.

 

The new oil filter housing has a replacement in it, and the one I pulled had no issue with the valve. Do not exactly remember the dims, but bearings were actually toast - had not spun, just really worn. Guessing the PO actually listened to the Mini recommended oil change intervals!
It was 'always' filled with proper synthetic. 20w50 was just a last ditch effort. IMHO pulling the engine really wasnt that bad, especially compared to my Mk1 TT!

I agree, though, there seem to be a lot of issues with the pressure relief valves sticking open - I have never seen it in any of my vehicles.

 

There is another step after 20W50. It is STP with honey in winter viscosity.

 

I beg to differ, sir:
70W90 gear oil.
Just sit back and enjoy the show. Worked in my old jeep anyway. Enough to get me back to campus

 

Aw hell - should've put a disclaimer:

NO REALLY DONT TRY GEAR OIL IN YOUR MINI'S ENGINE CRANK CASE. You will likely break something in the oil pump in cold weather!

 

So true. Oil pumps, like Canadian civil servants, don't like working under extreme pressures. OK, it is a joke on civil servants.

 

I just went thru this same issue myself except I had an oil leak. On my MCS I ended up doing heater exchanger seals, oil housing to block seal, new pressure sensor, and new oil filter and o-ring. Mine was caused by a seperating hermonic balancer that decided to split and bounce around taking out the CV shaft. The half that made contact with everything likely made contact with the oil housing and caused the issues. After changing all that the pressure light is off and back to normal.