I dont remove the bumper to do a cylinder head. I dont even put it into "service mode". You want to take off the intake manifold. i leave the hpfp attached to the head and disconnect the line that goes all the way to the firewall, its a quick connect, push in fitting that requires no tool. Then remove the exhaust manifold with turbo and down pipe. Then i lock the engine down with the lockdown tool that puts all the pistons at 90 degrees. Then i remove the inner fender well on the pass side. I then remove the timing chain tensioner. Then i support the engine with a jack and a block of wood on the oil pan. You can then remove the top engine bracket, its bolts that goes down vertically at somewhat of an angle, maybe 15 degrees, and the 17mm nut and 13mm ground strap bolt. You can then remove the "on engine bracket" held in by 4 torx and two 10mm bolts that hold the small battery cable harness. You can then remove the drivebelt, tensioner, and harmonic balancer (3 torx). Then I take out the 19mm crank bolt and remove the crank hub. Then you can remove the 3 in block timing guide torx bolts and the torx bolts holding the camshaft sprockets to the camshafts. Then the whole timing chain and guides comes out as an assembly. Then unbolt the thermostat, 3 10mm bolts. Then the head bolts and you are ready for lift off.

 

Thanks man. You make it sound so easy. Sounds like a plan. I replaced the chain before so I got the tools. Flywheel is locked and got a bunch done. Working on the cat and exhaust manifold now just can’t get the lower o2 off. Also the exhaust clamp is being difficult too. I’ll figure it out. Might have to heat it and see if I can fit a cheater bar down there fo that o2 sensor. Thinking about just leaving it in. Crazy how you don’t need the extra room to pull the cat. Sounds like you’ve done this a few times. Head needs valve job so all the peripherals need to come off.

 

+1

it is tight to get the turbo shield covers, but it can be done. it is easier to unplug the )2 sensor than removing it. As for the clamp, I had to hit is a couple of times and spray anti-freeze bolts or some penetrable oil.

 

👍

 

Bentley is good for most repairs, but isn't written for either transmission or engine internals. Another source for repairs is --- https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r56-cooper-s-hat/ --- it's still a "beta" site but most info is pretty good. I've compared a couple of their procedures with ones a dealer tech provided --- identical.