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CV axle replacement

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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 08:21 AM
  #1  
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CV axle replacement

I'm new to Mini's as well as new to fwd cars; I've had my 2004 R53 for a few weeks and am still compiling the list of repairs and urgency. 168k miles
This weekend I noticed both sides have the outboard boots separated at the end closest to the hub/bearing. The car drives great and makes no CV clicking noise at any time.
My presumption is to deal with the mess and wait for them to start clicking before replacing them.
Yes/no? why?
thanks
 
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 06:47 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by dnsherrill
I'm new to Mini's as well as new to fwd cars; I've had my 2004 R53 for a few weeks and am still compiling the list of repairs and urgency. 168k miles
This weekend I noticed both sides have the outboard boots separated at the end closest to the hub/bearing. The car drives great and makes no CV clicking noise at any time.
My presumption is to deal with the mess and wait for them to start clicking before replacing them.
Yes/no? why?
thanks

I would spend $30 and 2hrs time replacing the boots. If you see this as a problem now, why wait until you get stranded because the CV joint gave, which will happen at a most un-opportune time.

Welcome to NAM
 
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 02:27 PM
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I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles.

Welcome, and happy motoring!
 
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 02:59 PM
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I have brand new one
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nsmission.html
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 05:07 AM
  #5  
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do not go aftermarket, way too many posts on how they fail and pop out and destroy stuff like transmissions
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 05:14 AM
  #6  
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And if you change be sure that you have the transmission end properly seated.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 07:42 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Brownshoe
I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles.

Welcome, and happy motoring!
Sometimes that does happen. I was looking for the actual bearings so that I could rebuild them myself, could not find them and I didn't want to pay $1K for axles that I may not have needed because my boots were destroyed. I've removed my axles cleaned and re-packed the bearings, replaced the boots and 10k miles later they are still in good shape. Some may feel as you do, others as I do, either way, It's all good.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by yyj3869
who is the manufacturer? why don't you need it? price including shipping?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 06:34 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Brownshoe
I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles.

Welcome, and happy motoring!
that was the essence of my concern.
My CV's are working fine now, and making no clicking sounds at all.
Would disassembling them to replace the boot run the risk of expediting their failure....which is what it sounds like happened in your situation
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 06:43 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by mega72
do not go aftermarket, way too many posts on how they fail and pop out and destroy stuff like transmissions
wow....$230 each for a GKN....or $650 each for a genuine Mini part????
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 06:49 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by dnsherrill
who is the manufacturer? why don't you need it? price including shipping?
I was planning to install on mine but my mechanic said mine is working okay so i don't need to replace it. I can do $80 shipped
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 07:23 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by yyj3869
I was planning to install on mine but my mechanic said mine is working okay so i don't need to replace it. I can do $80 shipped
why did you think yours was bad? the one you're selling is made by who? Remanned is less than $50 each. My car is and will remain stock ride height and power train
 
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dnsherrill
why did you think yours was bad? the one you're selling is made by who? Remanned is less than $50 each. My car is and will remain stock ride height and power train
i thought grease was leaking from cv boot but it was coolant.
Brand: Drive Tech America
Manufacturer Part Number: BW-2502
Part Brand: DTA
OE Spec or Performance/Custom: OE Spec
 
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 07:51 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by dnsherrill
wow....$230 each for a GKN....or $650 each for a genuine Mini part????
Thus the reason I just cleaned, re-packed and put new boots on. Removing the bearing from the axle is not going to expedite it's failure. When removing the bearing, just be careful not to bang the bearings trying to take it off. I've read horror stories about cheap CV axles, that's the reason I just replaced the boots. If you want to spend $1200 as a preventative maintenance item, that's your call. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 08:23 AM
  #15  
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FWIW... put me on the list of folks that believe it's easier to just replace the entire axle with a reconditioned unit (with warranty) from a reputable source such as Cardone Industries. No fitment issues whatsoever on my replacements.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 10:13 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by AoxoMoxoA
FWIW... put me on the list of folks that believe it's easier to just replace the entire axle with a reconditioned unit (with warranty) from a reputable source such as Cardone Industries. No fitment issues whatsoever on my replacements.
someone else mentioned that if my car is stock power train and standard ride height, remanned A1 Cardones would be fine.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 10:19 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by dnsherrill
someone else mentioned that if my car is stock power train and standard ride height, remanned A1 Cardones would be fine.
Worked for me...

Passenger side ended up costing me $50 after $35 core was refunded.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2018 | 04:14 AM
  #18  
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I've just about decided to spend a few hundred $ and upgrade to urethane bushings in a few locations. front CA at sway bar union; lower engine mount, sway bar, trans/engine bushing, rear trailing arm inserts.....
question:
will grease from the open CV boots shorten the life span of the urethane bushings?
Ideally I'd replace the CV axles then the bushings....but I'm inclined to delay the axles until i hear them clicking.
thx
 

Last edited by dnsherrill; Mar 1, 2018 at 04:22 AM.
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 06:21 PM
  #19  
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it looks like the A1 Cardone right side remanned CV axle assembly (66-9280) has a carrier bearing that doesn't mount to the block.....I presume that doesn't matter?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 06:58 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by dnsherrill
it looks like the A1 Cardone right side remanned CV axle assembly (66-9280) has a carrier bearing that doesn't mount to the block.....I presume that doesn't matter?
You’re correct, it comes with the carrier bearing, but not the carrier itself. You need to reuse the bearing carrier from the one you are replacing, and yes, that does bolt to the block.

ModMINI has a video on the complete process.

ETA: With the axle out, you’ll have excellent access for removal of the oil filter housing, which by now is very likely to be dripping.
 

Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; Mar 10, 2018 at 07:04 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 07:45 PM
  #21  
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got the passenger side swapped this weekend, ended up removing the lower engine mount for better access on the carrier bolts.
next weekend is the driver's side cv axle
 
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