CV axle replacement
I'm new to Mini's as well as new to fwd cars; I've had my 2004 R53 for a few weeks and am still compiling the list of repairs and urgency. 168k miles
This weekend I noticed both sides have the outboard boots separated at the end closest to the hub/bearing. The car drives great and makes no CV clicking noise at any time. My presumption is to deal with the mess and wait for them to start clicking before replacing them. Yes/no? why? thanks |
Originally Posted by dnsherrill
(Post 4368997)
I'm new to Mini's as well as new to fwd cars; I've had my 2004 R53 for a few weeks and am still compiling the list of repairs and urgency. 168k miles
This weekend I noticed both sides have the outboard boots separated at the end closest to the hub/bearing. The car drives great and makes no CV clicking noise at any time. My presumption is to deal with the mess and wait for them to start clicking before replacing them. Yes/no? why? thanks I would spend $30 and 2hrs time replacing the boots. If you see this as a problem now, why wait until you get stranded because the CV joint gave, which will happen at a most un-opportune time. Welcome to NAM |
I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles. ;)
Welcome, and happy motoring! |
I have brand new one
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nsmission.html |
do not go aftermarket, way too many posts on how they fail and pop out and destroy stuff like transmissions
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And if you change be sure that you have the transmission end properly seated.
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Originally Posted by Brownshoe
(Post 4369378)
I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles. ;)
Welcome, and happy motoring! |
Originally Posted by yyj3869
(Post 4369389)
I have brand new one
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nsmission.html |
Originally Posted by Brownshoe
(Post 4369378)
I spent the $30 and much more than two hours re-packing and re-booting my passenger-side CV joints about 18 months ago, and now the axle is clacking on that side when I go around a turn, even though the boots still look amazing. Unless you really enjoy CV rebuilding and love crimping Oetiker clamps, and sweeping your floor to make sure you get every single one of the stupid little pin-size roller bearings back in the right place, I'd say just spend the money and get new axles. ;)
Welcome, and happy motoring! My CV's are working fine now, and making no clicking sounds at all. Would disassembling them to replace the boot run the risk of expediting their failure....which is what it sounds like happened in your situation |
Originally Posted by mega72
(Post 4369502)
do not go aftermarket, way too many posts on how they fail and pop out and destroy stuff like transmissions
:eek: |
Originally Posted by dnsherrill
(Post 4369930)
who is the manufacturer? why don't you need it? price including shipping?
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Originally Posted by yyj3869
(Post 4369938)
I was planning to install on mine but my mechanic said mine is working okay so i don't need to replace it. I can do $80 shipped
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Originally Posted by dnsherrill
(Post 4369945)
why did you think yours was bad? the one you're selling is made by who? Remanned is less than $50 each. My car is and will remain stock ride height and power train
Brand: Drive Tech America Manufacturer Part Number: BW-2502 Part Brand: DTA OE Spec or Performance/Custom: OE Spec |
Originally Posted by dnsherrill
(Post 4369937)
wow....$230 each for a GKN....or $650 each for a genuine Mini part????
:eek: |
FWIW... put me on the list of folks that believe it's easier to just replace the entire axle with a reconditioned unit (with warranty) from a reputable source such as Cardone Industries. No fitment issues whatsoever on my replacements.
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Originally Posted by AoxoMoxoA
(Post 4370092)
FWIW... put me on the list of folks that believe it's easier to just replace the entire axle with a reconditioned unit (with warranty) from a reputable source such as Cardone Industries. No fitment issues whatsoever on my replacements.
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Originally Posted by dnsherrill
(Post 4370141)
someone else mentioned that if my car is stock power train and standard ride height, remanned A1 Cardones would be fine.
Passenger side ended up costing me $50 after $35 core was refunded. |
I've just about decided to spend a few hundred $ and upgrade to urethane bushings in a few locations. front CA at sway bar union; lower engine mount, sway bar, trans/engine bushing, rear trailing arm inserts.....
question: will grease from the open CV boots shorten the life span of the urethane bushings? Ideally I'd replace the CV axles then the bushings....but I'm inclined to delay the axles until i hear them clicking. thx |
it looks like the A1 Cardone right side remanned CV axle assembly (66-9280) has a carrier bearing that doesn't mount to the block.....I presume that doesn't matter?
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Originally Posted by dnsherrill
(Post 4373849)
it looks like the A1 Cardone right side remanned CV axle assembly (66-9280) has a carrier bearing that doesn't mount to the block.....I presume that doesn't matter?
ModMINI has a video on the complete process. ETA: With the axle out, you’ll have excellent access for removal of the oil filter housing, which by now is very likely to be dripping. |
got the passenger side swapped this weekend, ended up removing the lower engine mount for better access on the carrier bolts.
next weekend is the driver's side cv axle |
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