05 R53 EP light after head replacement
05 R53 EP light after head replacement
167k miles, just replaced the head, the old one cracked due to overheating, due to a hidden water leak.
Everything started back up after I got it back together, though it's running rough due to what I think is a vacuum leak around the air box somewhere.
But, the "EP" light is on and is staying on. I test drove it and it wasn't acting like it was in limp mode so I wonder if something didn't get re-connected correctly.
Also the ABS, tire sensor and traction control light are on which I understand is wheel sensor related. Again, likely something not connected properly.
Anyone done this procedure and had related issues? Or ideas on what connections I should check? Thx!
Everything started back up after I got it back together, though it's running rough due to what I think is a vacuum leak around the air box somewhere.
But, the "EP" light is on and is staying on. I test drove it and it wasn't acting like it was in limp mode so I wonder if something didn't get re-connected correctly.
Also the ABS, tire sensor and traction control light are on which I understand is wheel sensor related. Again, likely something not connected properly.
Anyone done this procedure and had related issues? Or ideas on what connections I should check? Thx!
Thanks. No codes. In fact, after removing the air filter box, checking all connections, replacing the vacuum hose on the throttle housing EDR and reseating the ECM, the ABS, Traction and tire lights went out.
I drove it about 10 miles, on/off highway at speeds up to 75 mph. ran fine and shifted normal. Still no codes.
BUT, the EP is still in the display. The other symptom is that from a cold start, I have to pump the gas a couple of times to keep it from stalling out. Once running, within 30 seconds or so, it evens out and idles without stalling. That is not normal but may not be related.
I've watched
about erasing adaptations and relearning. Like the video describes, the battery has been disconnected for a while during the head rebuild. Also, had to jump it and eventually put a new battery in to get it running again. Not sure if resetting the adaptations is what is needed. I have directions for the re-learning part, but do not have the tool to erase/reset the adaptations.
I drove it about 10 miles, on/off highway at speeds up to 75 mph. ran fine and shifted normal. Still no codes.
BUT, the EP is still in the display. The other symptom is that from a cold start, I have to pump the gas a couple of times to keep it from stalling out. Once running, within 30 seconds or so, it evens out and idles without stalling. That is not normal but may not be related.
I've watched
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