Hello and new to the form with a 2008 Cooper, automatic(kids car) with 65K. Here we go.

My kid calls and says her fan continues running, thus meaning overheating with a CEL. A few days later with a new water pump and thermostat housing; same issue. Yes the housing did leak and it had the plastic pump. After some learning and finding the CTMP-MOM in the hidden display, it showed t t t. Reading the CTS should have 5 volts, I went down the dead end road of disconnecting everything with a connecter to find the 3.3 volts I originally got was correct and agreed with a neighbor’s 2010 Mini. Now armed with an OBDII tool and a spare same year/part number DME, I took things further and this is what I found.

No DME installed/connected, CTMP-MOM displays -048C. This seems correct but not sure if it should be -040C?

Original DME connected, CTMP-MOM displays t t t with or without the CTS connected. The engine starts, runs and the car drives, but codes 173B, 0117, 112B with a yellow CEL and the fan runs.

With the spare DME connected, the temperature is now displayed on the CTMP-MOM and goes to -048C when the CTS is disconnected. The temperature also goes up when resistors of lessor resistance are jumped across the CTS connector indicating the NTC(negative temperature coefficient, if I got it right) thing is working correctly. The engine obviously does not start, but codes the same 173B but with no CEL or fan.

I also tried the battery charge overnight trick, and with 12.4 volts the results were all the same.

Now I’m at the point of what direction to go and hope someone will chime in. I was going to send the DMEs to RPM in Canada for a data transfer but they say they don’t test the DMEs. So I could get corrupt data pulled off a good or bad original DME, then put on a good or bad DME and be worse off. The dealer of course says they need the car and there could be an array of things wrong and you may get it back after a ransom. Or it could be a simple re-flash. For sure they will have to pull my perfectly go CTS and replace it with theirs and ding me for that. Then I’m wondering if I should plunge into the winkfp, bimmer flash or whatever it is software and cables and try and gut it out myself. What bugs me is the temp is displayed with the spare DME but the code(if I understand correctly) says it’s not on the CAN bus. Do I have another module on the CAN that’s messed up; is the DME bad; did I miss something obvious??

Anyone been through this, or can advise or direct, or point where this has been hashed out on the site before, please help.
thanks

 

Moving you to the Gen2 Stock Problems/Issues area

 

There was a fellow member who has something of that neighborhood. in his case, the plugs were switched around. So, verify plugs.

Next, verify the water pipes are connected right.

check realoem.com for illustrations.

finally, does your donor DME come with a matching CAS and key fob?

where you located/?

 

plugs are correct, white and yellow wire plug is on the CTS
pipes are correct, but that shouldn't mater for reading temperature
got the donor via RPM telling me all they needed was mine and a spare of the same part number to do a "data transfer", they didn't call it a clone but used another term, said I was lucky DME would still talk to/run the car, if it could not read the engine sensors and so on then they would need fob/CAE/DME and would have to start from scratch using the VIN #, and more $$
I'm just south of Flint, MI

 

So, the donor DME can start the car and drive?
if yes: does that solve the problem using the donor DME?
if no: what did RPM do/say the donor DME will do?

 

Welcome to the forum @wader

 

thanks guys,

The original DME will do everything except read the coolant temperature. It throws the 173B code right away. After the car is started, then the 0117 and 112B codes pop up. Then the fan kicks on and the CEL goes yellow.

With the donor DME the temp is displayed and goes to -048 if I unplug the CTS, so I know coolant temp is being read. It will not let the car start if you try because it shuts down the coils and fuel pump I think. Something about the DME and CAS binary codes have to match with one another. They get changed every time you start and stop the engine maybe. The fan does not run and the CEL is off but I still get the 173B code.

RPM makes it sound like send us your DMEs because you obviously have a bad one; meaning the temperature thing on the original. They will simply suck the stuff off the original and put it on the donor so my car will start and the key will work and life is good. Problem is, they don't test the DMEs. My donor generates the 173B code also, so is it good or bad? I would like to know that before I shell out a 1/2K to learn I have a different or new problem.

Seems like everything I've surfed on the web, the fix is to slap in a new CTS. I've done this and also faked out the DME using different resistors to tell it the temperature I want it to be. Again, the original will not display, the donor will display, but both throw the 173B code which to my understanding is the temp is not on the CAN bus.

 

I think you should invest in ISTA/D and k+Dcan cable (software for diagnostics)

The donor DME is somewhat useless since you cannot start the car with it to see if the CEL will disappear or not. as you said, the DME and CAS need to be paired for it to work (start the car).