Two questions:
Which water pump has worked out well when replacing the mini plastic pump? Pelican has 4 to choose from?
Does anyone have a video of exactly how to replace the pump, belt, and other related parts?
Thanks, Dan

 

What year, model MINI do you have, Dan? I can help you decide.

 

i have a 2007 mcs TT84366

 

Thank you, Dan. Next question. Are you wanting to replace more than just the pump while you're in there? When's the last time you did your thermostat?

For pumps I recommend Saleri if you do not want to go with Genuine MINI: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item1

Now, depending on how much you want to replace while you're in there we also have water pump "super kits" here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0. That's basically everything you'll want to replace while you're in there for the job. If you click "more info" and then "Kits & Compatibility" it will give you a full part number list of what the kit includes. When you add the kit to your shopping cart and go to your cart you can delete out items you don't want or think you need.

Next, we have a full DIY here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm.

Also, while you're in there it might not be a bad idea to replace your water pipe (it's a note in the tech article above). This is a piece that connects your water pump to your thermostat. It gets brittle and causes cooling leaks all the time. it's a pain to get to so that is why it's recommended to inspect and replace while you're in there for this job. I can give you more details on this if you're interested.

 

i know the impeller on minis pump is plastic. Is metal better? I know it needs everything. Belt, etc. i replaced the thermostat at about 60K. Its 91K now. I may do the hoses as well and the aux pump as i have to have the turbo rebuilt.

 

BMW, but gives you insight about impellers: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Metal-impeller.

 

Is the latest version of thw mini oump s composite impeller?

 

It's the updated Metal Housing, but with a composite impeller.

 

Thanks. Ill look at the instructions.

 

Let me know if you have any questions as I am here to help!

 

I've tried different brands as it is obviously more profitable for me to install the cheaper the part is. But I've not had good luck with the aftermarkets. The new Original MINI ones are all metal and have a 2 year warranty so that is the only ones we will recommend or install. Heck if you install it correctly and it fails within 2 years MINI will do the labor to replace it.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/water-...8-r59-r60.html

 

Thanks for all the responses. My only last concern is the possibility of reaching/replacing the belt, friction wheel, tensioner, pump without lowering the engine, removing the radiator, etc.

Any experiences to share?

DR

 

The pump, friction wheel and belt are all on the pass side. Access with wheel well liner removed. With the correct tools, most of the DYI covers it pretty well. I opted for all factory stuff, including the horizontal coolant pipe on the rear of the block. Took intake manifold and airbox off to access this from the top. No lift needed. I did learn the hard way where the bleeder screw was! Its on the drivers front on the thermostat housing on the side of the block below the high pressure fuel pump. Its plastic, and when it breaks its a trouble spot. You might look for it and loosen it before you take everything else part to make sure it doesn't need to be replaced.

 

Thanks. Before I start I simply need to know if I have to drop the engine to get to thebolts on the pump, friction wheel, and tensioner.

I intend to replace everything including the hoses. The car is almost 10 years old, original pump and hoses.

Do you have any experience with silicon hoses?

 

I wouldn't spend the money on silicon hoses, they're an expensive fix for a problem that isn't really a problem. If you're going to replace the hoses I would recommend just going OE, they're a quality hose and you know it's going to fit without interference, just make sure all of the clips are in place and the hoses are in their proper locations. Improper hose location is the biggest reason for failure not age.

I understand replacing the water pump wheel with the water pump, and even replacing the friction wheel (some of them seem to fail just by looking at them wrong), but what makes you want to replace the tensioner?

The water pump, belt tensioner and water pump wheel are all removable without moving the engine around, but the friction wheel is easiest to remove by lifting the passenger side of the engine about 8-10" up, you can get the bolts out then slowly lower the engine back down to about factory location and remove the friction wheel out the bottom.

 

I've read the tech article on Pelican, watched video on youtube, etc. All indicate to support the engine and remove the huge bracket attached to the motor mount. Yikes.

 

It's not as involved as most people think. We usually have a friction wheel replaced in about 1.5 hours, if you're doing it in your driveway I'd say set aside 3 hours for the friction wheel if you're not entirely comfortable.

If you haven't sourced all the parts yet we have everything you'll need for the job, as well as can give you some pointers on getting it done.

Waterpump

Friction Wheel

Water Pump Wheel

 

thankyou DT. I'll follow the links. Whats your experience with silicone radistor hoses? I have original hoses. 10 years old.

 

I don't recommend them. They're an expensive "fix" for a problem that doesn't exist, and they never seem to fit quite right.

The OE hoses are going to be my recommendation. The biggest problem with the hoses is when someone works on the car and doesn't get the hoses routed properly or breaks or omits the retaining clips, that is when you start to get chaffing going on that leads to hose failure.