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R53 turns over, intermittent starts, a little gutless

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Old Sep 2, 2017 | 11:24 AM
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R53 turns over, intermittent starts, a little gutless

Hola Group,

I have 2006 R53, with 100,300 miles. Only Mods I have are the Way 15% pully, the NGK (BKR7EIX) plugs, and an Alta CAI.

Just recently started having running issues. Battery died after about 7 years, (which is amazing for AZ). So replaced that.

The next couple of weeks, I noticed she turns over just a little slower, and takes a little bit to catch especially when the motor is hot, (it's pretty hot here right now with the AZ summer).

Yesterday, the car would turn over but would catch a few times but never keep running. Today, I was able to turn her over, and she ran for a bit. Though when I hit the throttle, she wouldn't spool up so quickly. I let her idle and then she just quit.

I checked the plugs, and one was just slightly loose. (Not real loose, I had to use a ratchet to twist her, but it wasn't torque'd properly). I have roughly 60K miles on those plugs, (yes, I should've replaced them. So I do have some on order).

With the intermittent starts, could this be fuel related? Appreciate any insight. (I have never replaced the fuel pump or filter, and have only run the good tier fuel).

TIA,

-Jav
 
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Old Sep 2, 2017 | 11:37 AM
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I should add when I turn the key on in the ignition, I can hear what sounds like the fuel pump kicking in.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2017 | 10:44 AM
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also as another data point. When I last drove it, I noticed the Radio would cut out. I scanned through multiple channels, and it would drop out for a couple seconds, no matter which station. Sound would play for a bit, then gone for a couple seconds... Play fine again for a bit, and then wham-oh. (A/C was running fine, but I needed that here...) :-)
 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 10:21 AM
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gentle bump, hoping to hear some suggestions.

TIA,
-Jav
 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 12:26 PM
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No codes being thrown? At those miles plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter etc have all seen better days. Also, have you double checked that the battery terminals are tight?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 03:16 PM
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Sounds like you have spark. It sounds like fuel to me in my uber amateur opinion. I'd start there.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 03:51 PM
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[QUOTE=r53coop;4327432]No codes being thrown? At those miles plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter etc have all seen better days. Also, have you double checked that the battery terminals are tight?[/QUOTE

No codes.

I've got plugs on order, will be here tomorrow. Figure I'm long in the tooth on wires and coil as well. (they don't cost that much, so I'm going to shotgun it with those too).

Battery terminals are tight, gave 'em a good scrubbing with baking soda water, etc, too.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 04:40 PM
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Check your engine ground strap. If loose or corroded, you will intermittent or no start.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 04:43 PM
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Yes, just had another loose strap yesterday here.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Check your engine ground strap. If loose or corroded, you will intermittent or no start.
sorry, I'm a dumb @ss. Where is that located in the engine compartment?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 04:52 PM
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If the yellow dip stick is the center of the clock, then the ground strap is at about 10:00 in the picture below. It is the black cable that attaches to the mount bracket that fits over the motor mount.

 
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Old Sep 4, 2017 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by r53coop
If the yellow dip stick is the center of the clock, then the ground strap is at about 10:00 in the picture below. It is the black cable that attaches to the mount bracket that fits over the motor mount.

thanks man, I'll check that!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 05:26 PM
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checked the ground strap, all is tight and good. I also made sure the battery terminals were cleaned up. the motor turns over, but is not catching. I can still hear the fuel pump kick in. (I do have plugs, coil, and wires on the way. coil and wires are still OEM).
 
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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 07:29 PM
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Symptoms aren't indicative of spark issues, but I'd say it's easiest to check spark. Pull all 4 plugs one at a time and have someone turn the motor over while you have each set out to monitor for spark. If you see a spark, move on. Eliminate that aspect in about 10-15 minutes just to tick the box. I don't think the fuel pump firing up necessarily means that you're good there.

Take it from me, don't assume things. I've spent months trying to figure out fuel consumption issues on assumptions. Do the proper troubleshooting and you'll be much happier in the end.

I'd test your fuel pressure. Hook up w gauge and see what's what. If your pressure is good, I'd take a look at injectors. There was a guy not long ago that was having some really strange readings after 15 seconds or so from his injectors..
 
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 04:53 AM
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There are some things I will do relative to fixing/modding my car and then there are things that I have a pro perform. The difference is you can throw money on new parts you install in the hope that the part fixes the issue or you throw money at the shop.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by CSP
I'd test your fuel pressure. Hook up w gauge and see what's what. If your pressure is good, I'd take a look at injectors. There was a guy not long ago that was having some really strange readings after 15 seconds or so from his injectors..
+1 on this whole post. Although another amateur addendum--if fuel pressure is low, it's most likely one of two things: fuel pump or fuel filter. I think I'd try replacing the fuel filter first, due to cost, and the fact that fuel-filter-related cold start issues around 100k miles are well-documented on here.

Good luck and keep us updated!
 

Last edited by sarom058; Sep 7, 2017 at 12:43 AM.
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 05:35 PM
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Have you checked the airbox? Is it clean? You can see how it idles/revs without the filter
 
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Old Sep 9, 2017 | 09:38 AM
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I just got back from a business trip. So I'll be back to tackle the Mini issue.

@sarom - as you note, the fuel filter is cheaper and straight forward. I plan to order one, since I do have 100K on this car. I saw here what a "life time filter" looks like. Yuck! https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hange-mcs.html

@Iamtheguy -my CAI filter was recently cleaned and oiled, (about a month ago). So I think I'm good there.

- ground strap, battery cables, all look clean and good. have new coil, plugs, and cables (all of those items were OEM, with the exception of the plugs, which I put new colder ones in at 39K at the time of the 15% pulley).

Just an FYI - I think my crank pulley was replaced with an OEM brand, but that was many miles ago. I can't find my repair record of it, but I do think that was replaced. (this is merely a data point).

I put an ODBII reader on it, no codes....

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, does this have an relevance? When I last drove it, I noticed the Radio would cut out. I scanned through multiple channels, and it would drop out for a couple seconds, no matter which station. Sound would play for a bit, then gone for a couple seconds... Play fine again for a bit, and then wham-oh, gone again for a couple seconds. (A/C was running fine, but I needed that here in AZ...) Could that be something up with the alternator? (the alternator is also the original one).

I'll promise to post all efforts, etc. (I hate finding similar issue threads, and folks don't take the time to post the fix).

TIA,

-Jav
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 06:52 AM
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I doubt the radio is related. I'd say that's probably an amp issue.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 07:19 AM
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Sounds like some type of Charging/Battery issue to me. Have you checked the voltage to see if it drops. Your issues seem to be all electrically related. Alternators don't always just stop working, if the brushes are low, they don't always seat properly on the armature causing fluctuations in voltage, just a thought........
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 08:46 AM
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From: soggy pnw
Most people say they checked the battery connections, but most miss many. On the R53 Mini there are a few some possibly neglect:
  • The B+ terminal at the battery has 2 branches. One is pyrotechnic protected, and the other (I think) for other essentials.
  • By the airbox there is a battery jumper/charging connection. If the car has been messed with by not so competent PO mechanic it can be not making solid connection for 100+ amps for starting current.
  • And yes, the engine ground strap.
  • For the starter the thick red cable carries 100+ A so that must be properly torqued down.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 03:19 PM
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Sorry for the delay, I wanted to close the thread with the fix.

Turns out I had a bad fuel pump. So I replaced both the fuel pump and filter, and she's runs just fine now. (Man that fuel filter looked like sh** at 100K miles). Top tier fuel my butt... :-)
 
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 05:43 PM
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Good to hear you got the problem solved.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2018 | 08:30 AM
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Whoohoo!!!

Glad you got it fixed. Happy motoring!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2018 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sarom058
Whoohoo!!!

Glad you got it fixed. Happy motoring!
Good call on your initial diagnosis
 
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