Replaced right and left inner hangers today. Right side was shot. Left side was OK but I replaced anyhow. Outer hangers looked OK (maybe a little stretched?) - I did not replace those.

Here's a pic of the broken one.



Overall it made a significant improvement. But there are still rattling noises coming from the rear.

 

Did you shake the rear exhaust by hand up and down?

 

Shaking the rear exhaust up and down does not produce the noises I hear inside the car while driving. After replacing the inner hangars the noise is reduced but definitely not eliminated. I think I will replace the outer (strap) hangers also since they seem a little stretched. Also will take another look at the center pipe hangers.

What else should I be looking for?

 

Shake it up and down and side to side really quick just to make sure, you should hear a cling ..cling noise if it touches or rattles anything.

 

Remove the rear sway bar examine the area where the bushing goes around it. The metal of the bar is probably just worn down so new bushings will do absolutely nothing for that.

Take it for a ride w/o bar attached, then get back to us.

 

New development... When I bounce the rear suspension with a crowbar I can clearly get a noise from the upper shock mount. See video. I replaced the upper mount bushings and guide tubes with Lemfoerder less than 4K miles ago. Hard to believe new bushings could be bad this quick. Don't think theres anything else that can wear out in the upper mount. Time for Powerflex?

 

I hate to sound like a broken record here but you are experiencing exactly the repeated failure of the OEM foam top bushings that I did with three sets before I got disgusted and put in Powerflex replacements, along with new mounting bolts as they are stretched a wee bit on install.

Whatever the durometer or shore strength of the urethane foam they have been using to make the OEM bushings, it is not up to the task and all three of the sets I purchased from two vendors over a years time failed the same way.

In my daily work I make molds out of silicone rubber and castings from polyurethane resins and not a single compound we work with here has not been changed for the worse over the last decade by the manufacturers to pinch pennies.The life of the stuff just ain't what it used to be and it seems to me these foam bushings are just another example of the problem.

No rattle or noise since I put in the Powerflex, save yourself the madness and just do it, you'll be glad you did.

Mad Gepetto

 

Powerflex upper shock mount bushings ordered.

 

I have found the rear cantilever mount comes loose and drives you crazy! If left un attended, it will strip the body threads!

 

By 'cantilever mount' are you referring to #10 in this picture?

 

THIS IS THE PART:



yours is steel This one is aluminum) but the dark colored part attaches to the body with long bolts and they loosen and cause rattling all the time, when moving.

 

Is this the source of the problem? I have a similar sound coming from the front end... If it is the source, it gives me a starting point for where to look...

 

No, this is not for the front end! Only the rear!

 

Powerflex rear shock mounts are in. Reserving judgement for a few days on whether all my noises are gone. Here's a pic of a compressed Lemfoerder next to a Powerflex. The guide tube is flush with the bottom - not how much is sticks out the top.


Here's the compressed concave bottom of the old bushing.


I didn't like how the cupped washer caused the top bushing piece to bulge so I went flat like shown here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._med/Pic18.JPG

 

And...

 

Update: Unfortunately the powerflex upper mount bushings did not solve my right rear rattle. It's as bad as ever - I hear it on every bump no matter how small. Today I had the rear bumper cover off (for PDC sensor) and drove around to confirm the rattle is not related to the bumper. I had an assistant bounce the car (on ramps) with me under trying to pinpoint where its coming from. Still seems to be coming from the top of the strut. Almost seems like the guide support (#10) might be flexing. But that seems unlikely. Or maybe the two bolts (#11) are stretched like Madgepetto suggested could happen.



Will also confirm this...
...which I assume is #7 below

 

Yes, it is 7. Three bolts hold it into the body and if any are loose, it will drive you mad!

 

Are you sure it is not the passenger side motor mount, which is a common part that goes bad often!

 

Passenger side and lower engine mounts both replaced w/in last 10K miles.
Noise definitely coming from right rear suspension.

 

Nothing useful to add just I wish I had your patience with things

 

I cut and placed some rubber strips between the x-braces and the bottom of the fuel tanks. The clicking I had ended up being a loose end link. I do get allot of rear rattles when the car is cold.

 

Tonight I confirmed that the trailing arm bracket is tight. When I'm under the car it really seems to be coming from the top of the strut or above the top of the strut. When driving it's so sensitive to any bump it's like something is hanging loose. Could believe something is loose behind the liner in the boot on the passenger side. Anyone know what's in there? (same spot that has the convertible top pump on the driver's side)

 

Yesterday, I diagnosed knocking sound from the suspension. In my case the top nut on the driver side drop link for the sway bar worked loose by 1 turn. I detailed how I tracked it down with help of a friend.

 

Same thing I found. Drove me crazy. Road around with the back seats down and my head ontop of the battery box and against each side on the plastic trim that covers up the inside of the body. Got some weird looks from people, "Look Martha there is some nut trying to lay down in the back of the little car."

 

I would go back and check ever nut like they did above. Sometimes those noises are hard to track down. I had people ride in the back and listen and that helps pinpoint it.