Hey, I've got a 2007 justa automatic that I will be doing a timing chain job on. Have been having issues with death rattle and now low on power so thinking timing might be off a bit.
anyone have experience doing this on a car with auto trans? I've studied the procedure for turbo cars with manual trans and there is a need to lock the flywheel with a special tool, but I am not sure if this is needed with an automatic? Do I do the job with the trans in "park" will I be able to manually turn the engine that way? Or do I put it in neutral before I start? Is there a slot to lock it with the automatic transmission like there is with the manual?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

I have both minis turbo and non turbo. Same process on both. Only difference that you have more space to work on non turbo. Locking tool for intake camshaft is different and goes over valvetronoc shaft. Non turbo have dual vanos so you will need 2 long torx bolts. You can't reuse this bolts!!! So get new ones! Use 2 same size long skewers in cylinder 1 and 2 to set all pistons in the middle of the cylinders. Rotate engine ONLY clockwise. Spin the engine couple times before looking flywheel and cams. You can't spin engine counterclockwise because it will mess you vanos units and you will need to readjust it later. You MUST clean and inspect BOTH vanos solenoids and BOTH non return valves!!!! You Must have angle tool to be precise on crankshaft bolt and you need huge 1/2" braker bar for this! You have to torque vanos units in stages and you have to rotate them before final torque! Its important! Be careful not to strip top chain guide bolts. Very easy to strip them. Also you need good jack to lift car high on the stands (all 4 preferably) and later on to lift engine and hold it as you going to remove engine mount. (You will need to lift and lower the engine several times.
And bag everything! Every single bolt.

i might miss something. Let me know if you need anything or torque specs. Good luck and dont rush it or you WILL pay twice!!! Cheers!

 

Thanks for the tips. I am getting everything together to get working on this. I still am not clear however on if I need to have the car in park or in neutral when I do the job. Have not checked, but I am not sure if it can be moved into neutral and turned off.

 

you can leave it in "park" position. Flywheel that you need to lock with lool is inside your transmission case is spinning with the engine.
When you are trating your car your engine is running (flyweel is spinning) but the car is in park )

 

Well, it took a while, but I finally got the timing chain done. The car runs much better now, but I am getting a check engine light and p0014 shortly after starting the car each time. If I clear it while it's running it doesn't come back.
I used the camshaft locking tool and pretentioner when doing the work. I also rotated the engine and checked the timing before getting everything back together so I am confident I did the job correctly and set the timing correctly.
Before doing the timing chain job, I was getting this code also, but the car barely ran. It had really low power and very rough idle. Now it runs much better, but I am still getting this code.
Before doing the timing chain, I tried swapping the solenoids and cam position sensor and that did not lead me to find any issues with either (faults remained with the exhaust side camshaft).
During the timing chain job, I did confirm that the exhaust camshaft was out of time initially.

Anyone have any ideas on what might need to be done still to get this sorted?

 

I would suggest you to remove valve cover and check your timing again with locking tool. I think your timing is slightly off due to incorrect exhaust side VANOS removal. You need to lock VANOS before removal. This procedure is not described in Bentley manual by some reason. Let me know if you need help it. Good luck!

 

You are right, I have not heard of any procedure to lock the vanos phasers. How is this done? Is it possible that the exhaust phaser is not working properly? How would I check this?

 

It is possible that VANOS is damaged and you have to replace it but its rare. Most likely it's incorrect removal/instalation. Ill try to explain it and hope picture ill attach will help to understand what im talkind about.

Both VANOS units should be locked before removal. Start from 90' post TDC. All pistons should be lined up and cams should be with lettering facing up. To lock it you have to hold camshaft on the driver side with 27mm wrench and turn the engine clockwise by crank hub bolt using 18mm socket. Try to turn camshaft counterclockwise while turning the engine clockwise. Two pairs of hands really helps with it. What should happen is your camshaft is not rotating ( or you turning it slightly counterclockwise ) and your VANOS sprocket should turn clockwise (max about 30') till its bottoms out. After your VANOS locks up your VANOS sprocket and camshaft should move as one piece. If so your VANOS is locked. Repeat same thing with both cams/VANOS units. Keep in mind that intake VANOS and exhaust VANOS is different units. There is marks on them IN and EX. Sorry for my bad English im not native speaker.

Locking procedure for VANOS unit.

 

P.S. Did you clean both VANOS solenoids and non return valve?

 

Thanks for the explanation, I am pretty sure I understand what you are explaining. This does make sense as I remember that when I was first setting the timing prior to locking the cams and removing the chain, I found some movement in the exhaust cam independent of the phaser. In other words, I was able to rotate the exhaust camshaft counterclockwise a bit without the phaser rotating with it.
It sucks to have to go back into it again and reset the timing, but at least it's less work than the full chain replacement was. I believe I have to do the following:
1. Remove valve cover
2. Rotate crank to tdc
3. Hold exhaust camshaft with 27mm wrench and rotate crank clockwise until the exhaust phaser is locked.
4. Repeat step 3 for intake phaser.
5. Rotate crank back to tdc
6. Adjust cam timing as needed (use cam locking tools, remove/replace phasers and replace bolts as needed).
7. Rotate engine several times and recheck/adjust timing.
8. Apply final torque to phaser bolts.
9. Reassemble.

Let me know if this is what you are suggesting.

 

I got the solenoids, but not the non return valve. I'll give it a shot when I open it back up to check the phasers.

 

this is correct. Your exhaust camshaft must be slightly off (too advanced).

1. Remove valve cover
2. Rotate crank to tdc
check camshafts position see if its in time and lettering facing upwards.
3. Hold exhaust camshaft with 27mm wrench and rotate crank clockwise until the exhaust phaser is locked. Help to lock it by turning camshaft counterclockwise.
4. Repeat step 3 for intake phaser.
5. Rotate crank back to tdc
6. Adjust cam timing as needed (use cam locking tools, remove/replace phasers and replace bolts as needed).
7. Rotate engine several times and recheck/adjust timing.
8. Apply final torque to phaser bolts.
9. Reassemble.

Everything is correct!!!

 

here is the intake side. Non return
The hole on the top of the image is non return valve and on the bottom of the image is solenoid. Make sure its clean no gunk and no shavings otherwise your timing will be mechanically on spot but solenoids will set it of as they will malfunction due to incorrect oil pressure.

if you have compressor blow all oil passages you can get to. Just blow the non return valve hole and solenoid.

 

Well, I went back in there and sure enough the timing was off, though it was on the intake side, which was surprising since I was getting a P0014 code. I did as you suggested and tried locking the phasers (they didn't really move any noticable amount). I locked the crankshaft, loosened the intake phaser, adjusted timing, and locked the camshafts. I then replaced the bolt for the intake phaser (didn't remove the phaser). I tightened the new bolt to 20nm, rotated the engine and rechecked timing with the locking tools. Timing was perfect. I tightened the bolt to final torque, rotated the engine, and rechecked timing again, and it was perfect. I closed it all up, put it all together, cleared the cel, and took it for a test drive. Ran good, just like it did after I did the timing chain replacement initially. Turned it off, turned it back on and cel is back. P0014. Sometimes P0014 and P0015.
I am pretty much ready to give up on this thing. I bet if I spent another 4 hours going into it, I would find the timing to be off a bit. I am certain that I am setting the timing correctly, do there must be another problem with the camshafts or phasers or both. I've spent probably 30 hours trying to fix this and probably $500 in parts, tools, etc. I think it's time to send this thing to the great big race in the sky. Certainly will never own a mini again. Most pia to work on, and poorly designed car I've ever had. Really bummed.
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I understand your frustration. Sometimes mini will screw you up any way posible. I just spent 1500$ on parts and 3 weeks rebuilding top end due to bent exhaust valves. Just take a deep breath. If you are mechanically in time than its solenoids. Try to switch intake and exhaust solenoids. Its on passenger side and fastened by 10mm bolt. Fairly easy swap. Check codes. If codes moved than you need new solenoid its 50$ on amazon. Non turbo minis very well known for this.
Be patient. I hate my minis when i work on it but as soon as it hits the road its the best car to ride

 

This was one of the first things I tried doing before I went down the path of doing the timing chain replacement. I cleaned both solenoids and swapped them, but codes didn't change. I guess I can try it again since it's an easy 20 minute exercise. I've also tried swapping the camshaft position sensors without any change in codes prior to the timing chain work. I'll give an update on the results just so that it's here for others. I think this thread is very useful for anyone doing timing chain work on a base r56.

 

Keep posting. Snap some pics) hope you fix this issue!

 

Today I swapped the solenoids and cam position sensors from intake to exhaust. This did not make any difference as I still get P0014 and P0015. These codes are for the exhaust side camshaft I think. When I went back to recheck my timing after replacing the timing chain and getting these same codes, it was actually my intake camshaft that was a little off. I corrected it and was still getting these same codes. Is my exhaust side phaser the culprit? Looks like I can get one on eBay for $100.

I am also having another issue with the car that I have not yet started to address. I replaced my thermostat prior to doing the timing chain since it sprung a leak. I am now getting temps that are too low (87c) when going down the highway. Getting P0028 I think. I recently cleared all the codes with the car running, in Park, and ac off. The temps did then climb to 105c and fan kicked on. Otherwise, sits at 87c. Doubt this has anything to do with the other codes, but figured I'd mention it.

I also recently (but prior to timing chain replacement) replaced the valve cover, spark plugs, and coils. Car was having hiccups when accelerating for a few weeks that would be resolved by hitting the gas harder. Then one day it went into hard stutter and I had to get it towed. This is what led to the valve cover, spark plug, and coils replacement. This work did resolve the stutter and oil leaks from the valve cover, but car was not running right (low on power after warm up) so I did the timing chain. Car runs much better now, but these cels won't let me pass inspection. There is also a bit of a delay between hitting gas and the car responding. It always had a bit of a delay, but I think it's worse since the timing chain change.

Figured might help to give the whole history. Owned it since New btw. Been fairly reliable till this.

 

Similar story here. I have Mini Hatch One (07/1.4/MT)
​​​​​​First thing I've done after purchasing it about a month ago was timing chain replacement due the famous "cold start Death Rattle" which somehow was ignored by previous owner.
​​The car immediately started running much smoother, however Check Engine light was still on and the RPM on intersections sometimes goes up and down between 500 and 2500. I bought the simplest code scanner, it reads B2AAA, P0014, P0015, P2626, P0141. I already changed both solenoids with the new ones and switched camshaft sensors in places (the error codes still point to Exhaust).

I am going to check the non return valve next. Who knows..
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