P2096 + High Intake Temperature
#1
P2096 + High Intake Temperature
I have two 06 MCS - one is a GP, one is not.
Both have an alta intake. GP has a miltek exhaust, 06 has the JCW.
Got the P2096 on the regular 06. Had a smoke test performed (nothing found), adaptations reset, had a fuel injection clean done, but the code came back very shortly after.
Today I replaced the post-cat 02 sensor with an NTK.
I just started up the car after clearing the code from my OBD scanner and was scanning through all the items that can be streamed on the CRP123 scanner.....and the one thing that really popped out was the intake temp on the MCS is showing 107 F vs ambient temp for the GP.
Ambient temp was 65 degrees.
Both cars were cool before I started to monitor the streams and sat there for 5 minutes idling.
I have to drive the MCS for a bit to see if the code returns......but does anyone else find the intake temp difference strange? I would think that indicates some kind of a leak post intercooler. I sprayed the intercooler boots (alta) on the MCS and did not hear a difference in the idling. The GP has the stock intercooler boots.
Any advice is appreciated.
Both have an alta intake. GP has a miltek exhaust, 06 has the JCW.
Got the P2096 on the regular 06. Had a smoke test performed (nothing found), adaptations reset, had a fuel injection clean done, but the code came back very shortly after.
Today I replaced the post-cat 02 sensor with an NTK.
I just started up the car after clearing the code from my OBD scanner and was scanning through all the items that can be streamed on the CRP123 scanner.....and the one thing that really popped out was the intake temp on the MCS is showing 107 F vs ambient temp for the GP.
Ambient temp was 65 degrees.
Both cars were cool before I started to monitor the streams and sat there for 5 minutes idling.
I have to drive the MCS for a bit to see if the code returns......but does anyone else find the intake temp difference strange? I would think that indicates some kind of a leak post intercooler. I sprayed the intercooler boots (alta) on the MCS and did not hear a difference in the idling. The GP has the stock intercooler boots.
Any advice is appreciated.
#2
The other thought I had was maybe the intercooler itself is full of oil. I've cleaned them in the past and have had a **** ton of oil come out of it.....And it's been a long, long time since I've done that.
I will take the boots off, probably order some oem boots anyways, and clean the intercooler. Not sure that would explain a 40F increase in intake temp though at idle.
I will take the boots off, probably order some oem boots anyways, and clean the intercooler. Not sure that would explain a 40F increase in intake temp though at idle.
#3
Wow love the responses.
For all of you out there with the P2096.......I bought a Creator C310 obd scanner. I was able to reset the adapations (not using CBS reset, but manually via the DME) and boom! No more P2096. I had also first replaced the post cat O2 sensor but the light had stayed on.
Resetting the adapations makes the car feel like a brand new car. Smoother operation, more power, and you definitely want to drive it like you stole it.
Woo hoo!
For all of you out there with the P2096.......I bought a Creator C310 obd scanner. I was able to reset the adapations (not using CBS reset, but manually via the DME) and boom! No more P2096. I had also first replaced the post cat O2 sensor but the light had stayed on.
Resetting the adapations makes the car feel like a brand new car. Smoother operation, more power, and you definitely want to drive it like you stole it.
Woo hoo!
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This is good to know. I am working on 2096 as well. just showed up after swapping out the resonator on my 05 JCW. I had this on my old MCS and I swapped out my header with a used one and the code went away on its own. Im thinking on MY JCW the crack was there or opened up when I swapped the exhaust.
Last weekend I inspected my old header and found 3 cracks. one hairline crack about 1.5" long where the flex joint is welded on. I welded that up and put it in my old MCS and pulled out the good one. Now I'm waiting for a couple hours in the am to swap in the good header into the JCW. Praying this solves my problem. I have already replaced both o2 sensors. I have a few code readers already but not one that can clear adaptions. I would like to have that. Ill look at both of my cars intake temp and see what it is. MY JCW runs perfect. just the damn code.
Last weekend I inspected my old header and found 3 cracks. one hairline crack about 1.5" long where the flex joint is welded on. I welded that up and put it in my old MCS and pulled out the good one. Now I'm waiting for a couple hours in the am to swap in the good header into the JCW. Praying this solves my problem. I have already replaced both o2 sensors. I have a few code readers already but not one that can clear adaptions. I would like to have that. Ill look at both of my cars intake temp and see what it is. MY JCW runs perfect. just the damn code.
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#8
Yes it is good to check for leaks. As my smoke test was negative, I was pretty sure the adaption reset was the culprit.....But it's a good idea to reset the adaptations anyways especially if you are swapping out mods that affect the a/f ratio.
And yes my wife's car felt good, ran good, and didn't sputter or go into limp mode.....I think I read somewhere that the adapation can't make an adjustment past 25% or something along those lines but I'm not sure.
$60 seems like the right price to buy the scanner. I now have 3 scanners - an old crappy one I got at autozone that scans codes........a crp123 that would allow me to graph real-time data and reset airbags, etc........but this one is the only one that can do the adaptation resets for the minis.
And yes my wife's car felt good, ran good, and didn't sputter or go into limp mode.....I think I read somewhere that the adapation can't make an adjustment past 25% or something along those lines but I'm not sure.
$60 seems like the right price to buy the scanner. I now have 3 scanners - an old crappy one I got at autozone that scans codes........a crp123 that would allow me to graph real-time data and reset airbags, etc........but this one is the only one that can do the adaptation resets for the minis.
#10
My JCW that has the code now. I need to correct I got the code after I replaced the resonator. I took it out looking for more burble and pop. But my old ears did not like the very mild drone I got over 80 MPH. So I took out the resonator. had no code. drove like this for 6 months. and then put the resonator back in and replaced my coolant tank and PS tank. 3 days later popped the code. Which is about the right time line of driving cycle. so I think I introduced the problem.
replaced exhaust gasket
first because LAZY I replaced my rear O2, and waited 4 weeks.
second because LAZY I replaced front O2. Fuel mileage went up.
DAMN need to take 2 cars apart and swap parts. I can't be lazy anymore.
I'm curious to take out the current header and see if I find any cracks.
replaced exhaust gasket
first because LAZY I replaced my rear O2, and waited 4 weeks.
second because LAZY I replaced front O2. Fuel mileage went up.
DAMN need to take 2 cars apart and swap parts. I can't be lazy anymore.
I'm curious to take out the current header and see if I find any cracks.
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#12
swapped out to a used header with no cracks, and new exhaust manifold gasket. already had new O2 on both. pending code went away and light went off. so 6 driving cycles with the problem will turn this on and 6 driving cycles after repair it will turn off. But remember this is a hard code. It is still in my memory. without clearing adaptions it takes 40 driving cycles of no code recorded for the computer to clear it totally from memory.
I did not find noticeable cracks on the header. I'm going to build some blanks for the old header and pressurize it to 10psi and dip it in a pool and look for bubbles. and weld the cracks up and put on the shelf for next time. This is the second time I have had this code. on a different mini. both times it was solved with the same header. My old header I found 3 hairline cracks in it by visual inspection.
I did not find noticeable cracks on the header. I'm going to build some blanks for the old header and pressurize it to 10psi and dip it in a pool and look for bubbles. and weld the cracks up and put on the shelf for next time. This is the second time I have had this code. on a different mini. both times it was solved with the same header. My old header I found 3 hairline cracks in it by visual inspection.