Hello guys!

Got another 2007 r56 with 113k on it and with burned exhaust valves on cylinder 4 (ones close to turbo). Plus off course timing chain failed.

Kinda pain in the *** to work on the lawn of your neighbor on the stands when its raining like crazy here in Seattle.
But the job is done everything is together and im in the driver seat holding keys in my hand. The moment of truth. Engine turns and car runs! I was exited about my new toy!

Next day i got insurance. Went to pick the car up. Started it and everything was fine for 3 minutes. Than... massive misfires, check engine, almost dies on idle... i think head gasket need to be redone. Or instripped the thread in the block, or messed up head gasket somehow, or i dont know...

I need to crack it open again and put it back together (((
i need a garage to do this (((
dont even want to try to attempt it open air...
Intake before
Head before
Exhaust valves
Cylinders cleaned up
Intake after
Rebuild head

P.S. Can someone share/rent garage spot in Seattle/Bellevue/Issaquah/ Maple valley area?

 

That was some build up! Looking good. Hopefully you can find a nice dry place to crack it open again. What fault codes was it throwing?


Maybe these articles will come in handy while you work on it: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...r_R56_Tech.htm. If you need anything be sure to let me know. Good luck!

 

Well i didn't have chance to read codes after head gasket failure.
(im not even sure its a head gasket but pretty confident that it is)

before i start it after rebuild, it was 6 pages of codes
p0304
p2096
p1497
p0073
p0503
and lots of systems codes
a86e
a12b
93d0
9408
9e31
etc.

 

Guys!

Did anyone restore block threads with time-serts?

I think time-sert is better than helicoil. Just like design more.

Does anyone have experience with this two?
Which you prefer?
Any experience going inside the hole of a mini block to reach factory threads?
As you can see on the pictures bolt holes in the block is recessed.




Thank you.

 

I'm no mechanic, but one of your before pics show parts of valves missing. Are you sure they didn't end up in the turbo?

 

Make sure you put your wiring plugs back in correct place. Switching around the secondary air plug and the vanos will make it run like ****. So will EGR lines not plugged I

 

What are you talking about?

 

If you pull the wiring harness
Off and don't plug everything back in correct place it will cause all kinds of problems

 

I've used helicoil before on other things (not engine related) but they seem to do their job and well. I'm curious to see what others say.

 

It's obvious. All wiring is marked before removal. So everything is connected as it should be.

 

Hello guys! An update. 230psi wet on cylinders 1-3 and 210 on the 4th one. I assume its not head gasket. Its very rough on idle while cold abd get better when its hot. I thought it might be timing checked it and its innorder. Got to be vanos. Its pulling strong. Good power pickup on 3k rpm and till 5k. I got the code p0012. I did clean vanos solenoid when removed the head and it was dirty! Very dirty! And an a dumb cause i forgot to clean non return valve (((( now its pain in the *** to get in there (((( hope after cleaning/replacing vanos solenoid and non return valve it will run like a dream.
will upload some video of the car idling.
Intake vanos
In time
New chain assembly

 

Fixed! Ran 100 miles and no issues!
Cleaned non return valve and new PCV hose!
Running like a charm! Love this 3k to 5k pull!!!
40$ OMG! Why BMW make this plastic tubes sooo brittle?
Baby is for sale ) Seattle area.

 

Where is the non-return valve and do you have a picture of it?

 

its right under intake vanos solenoid. Its torx valve.
Its very hard to get to.

 

What does it do?

 

as much as i understand keeps the pressure in vanos on certain level. Its on oil way to vanos.

 

Okay. And thanks. I'll put this in my workflow list when I remove the head. Also did you replace your injectors and the fuel rail?

 

Nope! It wasnt damaged. Its good to change injector seals.
Be careful with high pressure fuel pump line. Dont strip threads of the line (that tube is like 100$)

 

Concerning the thread repair method, I have used both. When I wrenched in a motorcycle shop in the 80's my preference was/is the time-sert. It was far more durable, especially when it was an abused threaded item or location.