So I installed an autometer boost gauge over the weekend, and it doesn't read any boost. When I am at idle it reads -16 to -18 vacuum, but when I drive it the needle never goes over 0. I installed the gauge with the nylon tubing that came with the gauge. When I was routing it towards the steering column, I kinked the tubing. Would that have an effect on my boost reading? I'm planning on changing the tubing this next weekend, but wasn't sure if there's anything else it could be.

 

Where did you tap into, in order to get the boost line in?

 

I tapped into the fuel pressure regulator line. It is under the intercooler on the passenger side.

 

If the supercharger on my car dies, would I still be able to drive it? Today I used an obd scanner to read the boost on my car, and it showed that I was not putting out any boost. So the gauge isn't broken, and I did nothing wrong. My car is just not putting out boost. What is wrong with my car???

 

Do you hear the high pitch winding sound when you rev the engine?
I am trying to figure if this is started after you installed the gauge or its been always like that.

Did you check the boost hoses and recheck the line that you install to make sure there is no leak?

 

the only problems I had prior to the boost gauge install was listed in this post:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...esitation.html

I'm going to change the tubing tomorrow to see if that would fix anything. But from the readings on the obd app, it looks like it had nothing do with the gauge install. Also I do think the whine has been missing, I will check tomorrow.

 

after some more research, I think the cause to my problem might be the BPV. Do I ziptie the BPV to see if my boost returns? I might go with the DT bpv, but is the new bpv just as good now?

 

Ziptie the valve so that it cant open up and allow air to leak.

If the bypass valve was faulty, you would usually have a loss of power. Did you repace your kinked line yet? That would prevent you from reading boost on your gauge. Maybe you have a vacuum leak...

 

I looked at the bpv and there's no problem with it. I changed out the tubing and still not getting a boost reading. The gauge reads the vacuum perfectly fine. All the hoses are connected and secured, so I don't know where I could have a vacuum leak. I just bought an ATI crank pulley. Once I install it, I'll see if there would be any changes.

 

Have you checked to see if the vibration dampener has gone to hell? It would not make boost if it has.

I know I have come to this post late, but hopefully others will check this issue also!

 

posed twice for some odd reason!

 

Did you install the boost hose into the stock FP regulator line using a T-connector that came with the gauge?
My boost gauge (glow-shift) came with a t-connector and it had a built-in restrictor on the leg I was supposed to attach the line going to the gauge.

Caused exactly what you are seeing. I swapped it out for a unrestricted T-connector and "poof" problem solved.

Good Luck
Bruce

 

I did use the original t-connector that came with the gauge. When I run an obd scanner to read my boost, it shows only like 1 psi. I don't think the connector is causing this issue.

 

If my vibration dampener is broken, wouldn't my car throw a code or go into limp mode? My car runs fine except I don't have a top end.

 

If the damper was failed the usual symptoms are:
Burning rubber smell
Battery light
Loss of power steering
Overheating
No boost

If your scan tool even reads 0 boost I'd venture to say you've got a problem, but kinking teflon tubing is never good.

Start by checking intercooler boots, belt tension, condition of the crank pulley, is the SC slipping on the SC shaft?, BPV condition, etc.

If you are having a low boost condition there should be codes stored as well as a light on, it would be weird to not see either of these with the car in that condition.

Our valve is a new MINI valve that has been adjusted and rebuilt. DT BPV

 

Yea I don't have any of those problems except for the no boost. I recently changed the intercooler boots. The belt doesn't feel loose, but I haven't had a chance to check out the crank pulley. How would I know if the SC was slipping on the SC shaft? I checked the bpv and the spring is still good. Using my creator c110 scanner, there are no codes showing up in my history and no CEL light ever comes on. It is a mystery, as to why my car is doing this. I refuse to bring it to a dealership because they charge way to much, and the car runs fine for my daily use.

 

The easiest way to check if the SC pulley is slipping on the shaft, is to draw a line on the shaft and pulley, drive it hard and see if the lines no longer line up.
I have made a paint line on my shaft and pulley, so I can easily tell if there is any slippage.

 

Do I need to put the car into service mode in order to do this?

 

No, you should be able to get to the pulley from up top.

I would still start with finding a qualified indy shop to do the diagnostic to cut down on down time. Reading what codes are stored and getting an in depth look at the situation will help out immensely.

 

I have a scanner, and there isn't any codes that are stored. The last code I got was for the camshaft sensor, which I replaced.

 

No boost is often a broken vibration dampener on the crank. Look to see if it is hitting the engine. You will need to jack it up, get under and wobble it (the grooved pulley) and look around the engine, where the balancer would rub on it. It should not wobble at all!

 

alright I'll take a look this weekend. I already have an ati crank pulley to put in just in case it is broken.

 

Your generic scanner isn't going to read dealer level codes. Unless you've got a quality Snap-On, Autologic, Auto Enginuity, ISTA, etc, there is information you're missing.

 

I use a creator c110. I guess its not good enough

 

I plugged in my voltmeter and my car only produces 12.5-13.6 volts. This is not the normal 14s, so i'm assuming it has something to do with the belt, tensioner, or crank pulley? I just replaced my alternator over the summer.