Front end clunk at low speed
Front end clunk at low speed
After lowering ~1.5" on coilovers I now have a clunk at low speeds and take offs, thinking it's my end links but not entirely sure. When I had it in at my local MINI dealer they did a check and said my ball joints, and control arm bushings were in good shape. Would adjustable end links fix this?
Depending where the clunk is originating from, it could even be the sway bar bushings. But it's likely worn end links as a result of the change in ride height. With a 1.5" drop in ride height, adjustable end links might be something to consider. Replacing with standard end links will preload the sway bar too much at static height.
Can you give some more info? When does the clunk happen? Random clunk while driving in a straight like? Only while going slow or also while going fast? While turning? While going over a bump? While braking? While accelerating? All of the above? If the car is not moving and you get out and bounce the front end of the car but pushing on the top of the fender....does it make the clunk?
Any pattern to it? Could be lost of stuff....need more info.
Any pattern to it? Could be lost of stuff....need more info.
Do you also have a clunk when going in reverse? If so, since you've altered the suspension geometry, it could be your front axle CV joint(s) are now exhibiting excessive wear. With the transmission in gear, jack up each side and rotate your wheels back and forth to see if you can duplicate the clunk. I just recently fixed my front end clunk by replacing my front axles
Can you give some more info? When does the clunk happen? Random clunk while driving in a straight like? Only while going slow or also while going fast? While turning? While going over a bump? While braking? While accelerating? All of the above? If the car is not moving and you get out and bounce the front end of the car but pushing on the top of the fender....does it make the clunk?
Any pattern to it? Could be lost of stuff....need more info.
Any pattern to it? Could be lost of stuff....need more info.
Edit: according to the adjustable end link chart from m7 i will need their adjustable end links as they are shorter than oem ones.
I only hear it when going slow like in a parking lot, during turns and straights. Seems to happen more over bumps. But only during acceleration. The only pattern I can think of is that it only happens when moving slow, once I'm on the highway I don't hear it.
Edit: according to the adjustable end link chart from m7 i will need their adjustable end links as they are shorter than oem ones.
Edit: according to the adjustable end link chart from m7 i will need their adjustable end links as they are shorter than oem ones.
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Had the same issue, changed end links, didn't fix it. Changed strut and mount, didn't fix it. FINALLY found out it was lower control arm bushing. Helix will change it out at The Dragon for $350 all in. Stealership is at around $1k for the job, other Euro shops in the area around $8-$900. It's a pain to do yourself, I thought I could handle it but that's not the case.
Had the same issue, changed end links, didn't fix it. Changed strut and mount, didn't fix it. FINALLY found out it was lower control arm bushing. Helix will change it out at The Dragon for $350 all in. Stealership is at around $1k for the job, other Euro shops in the area around $8-$900. It's a pain to do yourself, I thought I could handle it but that's not the case.
Have you taken a look at the motor mounts, I suspect the problem is due to lowering the car but it only takes a minute and it is eliminated. Lowering the 1" should not cause the drive shafts to clunk unless they were clunking before the car was lowered, is the clunk coming from the front or the rear of the car?
[QUOTE=Qik420;4273349]Had the same issue, changed end links, didn't fix it. Changed strut and mount, didn't fix it. FINALLY found out it was lower control arm bushing.
Excluding engine mounts, which should be checked too, this is the problem. They may still look intact visually, which is why the shop passed them, but when you remove them the failure will be visible.
Excluding engine mounts, which should be checked too, this is the problem. They may still look intact visually, which is why the shop passed them, but when you remove them the failure will be visible.
Probably not it but free and easy to check. I had to do this about 1 time a year with my coilovers to eliminate noise.
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http://www.meganracing.com/tech/faqs...m%20coilovers?
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http://www.meganracing.com/tech/faqs...m%20coilovers?
No it wouldn't. I had the same exact issue, had taken it to 2 MINI dealerships and 2 Euro shops and every single one suggested struts, mounts, and sway links. Nobody caught it until the control arm bushing started leaking. It was just a clunk at low speed.
Mods to the bump stops? Can you explain why because I don't know ha
Are the coil overs new?
You should be looking into adjustable end links regardless. Detroit Tuned Endlinks
Have you gone back though and made sure that all hardware that was removed is still torqued and tight?
What amount of camber are you trying to run? The ST coils may rub up front on the drivers side over 1.25* negative camber. There are some "bumps" in the wheel well in the area of the coils (which you can massage with a hammer and brass punch), and many times unless you're running a 60mm coil over you will rub and have a clunk.
If it's been rubbing for awhile now you should have evident markings on the drivers side coil and the inner wheel well where it is rubbing.
You should be looking into adjustable end links regardless. Detroit Tuned Endlinks
Have you gone back though and made sure that all hardware that was removed is still torqued and tight?
What amount of camber are you trying to run? The ST coils may rub up front on the drivers side over 1.25* negative camber. There are some "bumps" in the wheel well in the area of the coils (which you can massage with a hammer and brass punch), and many times unless you're running a 60mm coil over you will rub and have a clunk.
If it's been rubbing for awhile now you should have evident markings on the drivers side coil and the inner wheel well where it is rubbing.





