I am currently working with a spare set of headlight housings where i am installing a custom set of projector lenses. That being said i was wondering if the stock wiring on a (stock halogen car) can be used with resistors to allow the hid ballasts and bulbs to function. I know of the relay harnesses, but that leaves one of the plugs open. I looked through the other postings and cant seem to find any information as to running hid ballasts off the factory harness. any info would be great at this point. I am planning on going 35w bi-xenon if that helps.

 

Any resolution to this?

 

I added H13 Bi-Xenon HIDs to my 2012. I got them from Xenonhids dot com.

I had my car coded to remove the "bulb check" so I didn't have to worry about the "flickering". Since I went Bi-Xenon, I added the power relay harness to meet the power needs of the actual moving of the light bar in the bulb in/out for low/high beams - https://www.xenonhids.com/power-rela...ss-wiring.html.

The factory bulb harness on the passenger side is plugged into the setup to turn the lights on & then both sides are powered straight from the battery....see the instructions & diagram at the bottom of this page - https://www.xenonhids.com/installation-guide.html

I've been using it on the factory wiring for 6 months so far without any issues...like I said above, the factory harness (only 1 of them) is just used to trigger the lights on/off & high/low....they actually draw power straight from the battery using the power harness. I chose to use the passenger factory bulb harness as that's the side the battery is on *shrug*

 

btw....when it came to the ballasts, I went with the 55w, but not the Canbus versions since I had the "bulb check" coded out of the comp - https://www.xenonhids.com/55w-ac-dig...t-hid-kit.html

The Canbus is required (& sometimes also anti-flicker harnesses) if you don't have the "bulb check" coded out. What it does is sends out a small voltage to each bulb to see if it gets that voltage back....indicating the bulb is functional. if it doesn't get the voltage back, it gives you the error code saying you have a bulb out.

I had replaced other bulbs in my car (front marker, reverse, side turn signal) & they would all "flicker" occasionally since it does a "warm check" on occasion as well as when the car is turned on. I just found this irritating so I opted to just have it coded out altogether.

 

If you code the VO for HID, it is not necessary to disable headlights check.
I could see flickering only in cheap ballast.
High quality ballast without flickering at all (with VO coded).

 

I just had all bulb checks coded off cause the LED turn, reverse etc lights would flicker during the bulb check & it irritated me LOL

 

You are right.
I have 100% LED bulbs (turn signal, tail lights, license plate, interior, etc) and the first day after installing people started telling me "where did you get that "effects box" and how did you connect them to your bulbs?

Warm check off was the fix