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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Sorry....maybe this was answered somewhere in the 4 previous pages of posts......but when rebuilding these motors, who's got the best deals on parts (pistons, bearings, cam, con rods, crank......) ?
You didn't missing anything. I worked with Detroit Tuned to get most everything for the rebuild. They did a great job with prices, and getting together all parts needed for a complete rebuild. I also found good prices and quick shipping from fcpeuro.
Nik
What is the clutch doing when you have it all together? Is it making noise? You said it doesn't release far enough but does the clutch not engage at all then?
How do you know how far the to bearing should move, and how in the world can you see where it hits with the transmission on?
If you bought all new parts did you compare them to the old ones to verify they are right?
You can't install the pressure plate, flywheel or to bearing the wrong way. So either one of those parts is bad, or something is up with slave cylinder. Does the slave appear to be working correctly?
One other thought. I just watched the video. Is it the moving wheels that concern you? That is normal behavior with the car up in the air. Not all cars do that but I've seen plenty that do.
What is the clutch doing when you have it all together? Is it making noise? You said it doesn't release far enough but does the clutch not engage at all then?
How do you know how far the to bearing should move, and how in the world can you see where it hits with the transmission on?
If you bought all new parts did you compare them to the old ones to verify they are right?
You can't install the pressure plate, flywheel or to bearing the wrong way. So either one of those parts is bad, or something is up with slave cylinder. Does the slave appear to be working correctly?
One other thought. I just watched the video. Is it the moving wheels that concern you? That is normal behavior with the car up in the air. Not all cars do that but I've seen plenty that do.
When it's all together it won't disengage. The peddle goes all the way to the floor, with only resistance at the very end. My clutch w/ 365000 miles worked perfect, slave cylinder and all.
I don't know how far the bearing should move, but I do know where it should be in contact with the pressure plate. I know how far it moved when it was together by the location of the lever on the outside of the transmission. The slave cylinder does not have enough travel to move the pressure plate enough to disengage the clutch, an if it did it would push the thow out completely off the shaft
Shifter arm where throw out bearing should be in contact w/ pressure plate splines
Shifter arm where throw out bearing comes in contact w/ pressure plate splines...
If the pedal goes all the way to the floor it sounds like it's the slave.
Did you disconnect the line to it? If so did you bleed it correctly? Its still possible it could be the slave not working right, even if all you did was take it off. With someone else pushing the pedal, does the slave only move a little bit?
All simple stuff I'm sure you know, but sometimes it's the simple stuff that gets you.
Like I said in my previous post, the parts are wrong or the slave isn't working right. The transmission is the same and the parts don't bolt on wrong. They could be loose but not backwards. Only other part involved is the master cylinder, unlikely it stopped working though.
Well finally got everything finished up today. The clutch ended up needing bleeding. I made an assumption on where the throw out bearing was supposed to make contact. Oh well, learned something. So far I have a whopping 3 miles on the new engine, will hopefully find some time to get it out this weekend. Now for photos:
The old bleed the clutch then leave it fully depressed over night trick worked!
Almost done, just bumper, fenders and tires left.
M7 coilovers (someone asked for a pic)
Bumper back on
All back together
Other side
Finally ready for the road after almost three months..... Finally!
So now that its been almost a week since you've finished (and hopefully have been driving) your MINI rebuild, how has it gone? Any observations or surprises, either pleasant or otherwise?
So now that its been almost a week since you've finished (and hopefully have been driving) your MINI rebuild, how has it gone? Any observations or surprises, either pleasant or otherwise?
As for the rebuild, no surprises, it is perfect. However I had a slight problem in the first few days that I finally got sorted out. It was running great around town and on the highway, but would lose power and warm up really quickly going up hill. Very important because I live just out of town a few miles, where town is 4000' and my house is at 6000', so quite a grade. This was one of the symptoms I had before re-build, but was much less after re-build, but still present. So the symptoms were, low power, high intake temperatures, heating up quickly, loud supercharger whine, and high boost pressures (15+, which shouldn't be seen at these elevations). Did some testing, found the cat to be restricted, swapped out. Now runs way stronger than ever before. Will put another 150 miles + on it today, and will be doing its first oil change in a week or so. A very worthwhile project, it does feel weird driving something I built.
Super cool! I saw your post on Reddit. I guess it wasn't the fuel pump after all!
Super happy for you getting it running again. I know how frustrating it can be. Just wondering how you feel about the car after owning it for so long/driving it so much. I hope too, to be able to hit 360,000miles with my 04' Mini!
It feels great to be driving it again. It was a long few months while it was down. Since I replaced all the ball joints while I had time it's like driving a brand new car again. It still has some of it rattles, but I can't think of any new car I would want right now. It was a very good decision to rebuild it.
Xsmini, I know you did all the work, except for the head machining, but how much would you say rebuilding your car cost you? I kind of see my mini as a forever car and if/when it needs it, I'd like to give it the same treatment.
Xsmini, I know you did all the work, except for the head machining, but how much would you say rebuilding your car cost you? I kind of see my mini as a forever car and if/when it needs it, I'd like to give it the same treatment.
I am planning on putting something together. Stay posted.......
I am planning on putting something together. Stay posted.......
Yes! Please do! I just read through this whole thread from beginning to end and that was AWESOME! Excellent job on the pictures and awesome info. Someday I hope to go through the same process on my mini. I just bought it,it's bone stock (for now ) and has 156k miles on it. Here's hoping I can get another 150k before then but I'm actually looking forward to it
So today I finally finished everything (I think) and changed the oil for the first time with 1550 miles on the new engine. Will be sending off to Blackstone Labs for analysis.
So for the final days work:
Old vs New (and a boxer foot)
Strut out
Shot of the new header from last weekend:
New Header
So for the breakdown cost of the entire process:
Machine Shop - $300
New Head - $850 (mine had a crack in every cylinder)
Mega Cam and Adjusted gear - $500
Spark Plugs - $35
Timing chain/ guide - $95
Bearings (crank) - $578
CP Pistons/ Rings - $652
Studs/ Bolts - $200
Coolant Hoses - $160
Engine Mounts - $200
Ball Joints - $150
Strut Mounts $75
Gaskets - $200
Header - $410
Clutch - $382 Misc : $186
Total $4973
Which isn't too bad considering I also replaced a bunch of extra stuff (Head, header, coolant hoses, ball joints, etc)
Things I learned:
The rebuild is fun process, not too scary at all. After all most of it only goes together one way. Take your time, make sure you research what you are doing. The Bentley Manual is basically useless for most all of the rebuild process, however the Haynes manual has great information.
I decided it was time to do the rebuild because of low compression. Upon taking everything apart the it looks like the culprit was most likely the oil rings were a little stuck. This could be because of my long oil change interval (20,000+). After the rebuild the power was much better, but not perfect. After some more testing was able to determine that it was a clogged cat. I would recommend anyone that is over 150,000 on their original cat to replace it, you'll be amazed with the power increase.
In another 360,000+ miles I will likely be doing another rebuild (or whenever I determine its time again). Its been fun - aiming for a million miles!
So about $3300 to rebuild the engine vs around $4000 for a reman from a place like sneed.
Definitely worth it if you have the skills, time, and of course the machine shop. Not to mention the feeling of acclishment you get from doing it yourself.
) and has 156k miles on it. Here's hoping I can get another 150k before then but I'm actually looking forward to it 
