Hi all,
2011 MCS w/78k on the clock. Ive researched my issue with bump steer I think. Whats happening is if getting off an exit with a curve either left or right, and then hit a hole or bad gap on the ramp the car jolts to the side.

Air pressure is at 33 per sticker in door, and with hands at 10/2 or 9/3 its not as bad but present. If I drive gangster like much worse lol.

Run flats of course she drives great of smooth roads and tracks pretty straight.

I dont want to change out the RF tires yet they are new. My understanding is the bushings go bad at around 50k.

What should I look for on the car to improve the situation?

If I change the bushings to after market will it make the ride harder?

I would like to keep the ride as close to stock as possible, a touch softer might not be bad though.

Any input would be appreciated, thanx in advance Jorge

 

Runflats are stiff and non-compliant. They will skip sideways when turning on rough road surfaces. Bushings won't make the ride much harder as they just take the slop out of the suspension. Koni FSD shocks will improve the ride without compromising the current handling but compliant tires would be a lot less expensive and more effective.

Some people like the "go-kart" handling of run-flat tires and are disappointed after changing to more compliant tires. The choice is to give up the stiff sidewall tires or put up with the harsh ride and limited capability to stay planted on rough surfaces.

Bridgestone Driveguards are the best riding runflats and Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06 are the best riding performance tire.

The tires are the only thing between you and Mother Earth. Ferrari once said their performance in Formula One racing was 25% driver, 25% car, and 50% tires.

 

Good info, but I cant imagine Mini would put out a car that would skip across a lane after riding over an expansion joint or mild bump and say its supposed to do that.

With my miles wouldn't worn components be more of an issue?

 

Don't know the solution, just know that your impression of Mini or any other manufacturer as being totally responsible is somewhat off. Talk to VW most recently.

 

"...hit a hole or bad gap on the ramp the car jolts to the side."

is not anything similar to

"...skip across a lane after riding over an expansion joint or mild bump...",

now is it?

So have your suspension checked for wear already. Maybe your gangster like driving bent the crap out of it.

 

I just got the car, unable to get on my lift due to Christmas and time, and they are the same just worded different. I normally drive with 1 hand on top of the wheel.

My main question is considering the suspension components. What is the longevity like? With 78k on the clock worn parts it a good damn possibility.

 

Click on "vendor directory" at the top of the page
Then click on "send a private message" for ECS Tuning and/or Pelican Parts. They are both active on the forums here.

You know part of the answer is how your roads are and how the previous owner drove.

 

I'm not sure if you ran across this thread here, but I'll post it for reference. It has some good information. I'd check your ball joints and other suspension components for wear. Bushing failure can cause a number of ride quality problems. You may have a shudder when braking or a clunk when you hit a bump. Inspect your control arm bushing and ball joints for looseness by jacking up the front of your vehicle and moving each wheel side to side. If you feel looseness in the attachment points, this indicates a problem.

 

We can help.

Sometime the lower control arm bushings ( Back main busing on control arm ) are shot and the suspension will bump steer a bit more then normal. First see if they are bad. Looks for cracking or separation.

#10

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0774

Then if so replace them , one for each side. And never have to replace again.


https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2651763/ES2651763/

 

UPDATE:
We put the car on the lift today. Everything looks good down there considering the miles. The only problems are of course the control arm bushings, DS has a oil stain and the PS is start to leak out.

I looked up on Intelifix at my brothers shop, of course it describes the job with removing the sub frame.

Can the bushings be replaced out to the poly ones without dropping the frame?

Its a Gen2 2011

 

You can do it with a factory MINI tool Control arm bushing or an aftermarket one. If you drop the rear of the sub-frame enough you can work it out, and dip the front down.

 

We have a Front Control Arm Replacing and Rear Control Arm Replacing DIY that may be helpful to you for this job. Take a look at them as they describe a step by step process. Bushings here if needed.

 

cool ill give it a look.
Is the guide gen 1 and gen 2 ?

 

You'll want to click on the tech info on the site and click over to the Gen2 R56. It'll be under suspension.

 

thanx will do

 

"Can the bushings be replaced out to the poly ones without dropping the frame?"

Yes, they can be cut out with a "saws-all". Here: . It also shows how you can fashion a home-made installation tool.

 

Yeah I saw that video. But isnt that different control compared to mine. My inner ball joint isn't bolted to the arm its pressed in. So wont that make the arm a bit harder to remove with the dropping at least the rear of the subframe