Car was cranking and not starting. Dicked around for 45min checking battery jumping off spare battery from my old beetle, cleaned battery terminals, cleaned ground strap (had it off recently for alt replacement) check oil (coating is chipping off dipstick), sprayed some starter fluid in intake. Nothing had an impact. One last try before giving up and it starts like nothing was wrong. Same thing happened a few weeks ago. It's getting cold out but issue not on coldest days.

Bringing it in Monday to dealer for the passenger seat recall. Don't want to pay $120 just to have them check computer for error codes. Not sure if my European specialist mechanic has full computer read capability.
Any advice on the next step

 

If you can get your hands on a code reader I would highly recommend it. It'll help you track down issues, if there are any codes present. Otherwise, the battery can cause a bit of a headache and a whole mess of problems if it is bad. Have you checked the voltage of it? Just to rule it out of the equation.

 

12.14v at battery and at jump terminal under the hood.

I have a cheap. Bluetooth obdii reader but it didn't connect this morning also don't know if it will read codes just been able to monitor a few parameters.

Maybe a fuel pump relay or something?

 

Does the fuel pump prime at key on? What is your fuel pressure at the rail?

Is your ignition coil connected?

Cam and crank sensors plugged in?

Compression numbers?

Are all of your grounds made properly and securely?

Power doesn't seem to be an issue if you're getting crank.

 

I'd maybe check the fuel pump. Sounds similar to this guys issue here and it resulted in needing a new pump.

 

See red above

 

Seems like a good lead but I'm not sure why my car eventually started without banging the tank or anything to get past the suggested dead spot. Maybe I slammed the hatch hard enough? (I was a little )

 

You should be able to hear the pump prime at key on, if you don't hear it prime then you need to deduce why it isn't getting powered.

Compression gauges are cheap enough from your local parts store that it wouldn't hurt to have one on hand, they can get expensive but for a onsie twosie test here and there the auto store special should suffice.

Aside from the mechanical workings, it sounds like you need to find a dealer level scan tool and a qualified euro tech.

 

Check out our fuel pump and filter replacement article. It gives some good suggestions. For example, one of the symptoms of failure is the pump getting stuck, and then finally kicking in after turning the ignition on and off a couple of times. Have you ever changed it before, and how many miles are on your MINI?

 

110,000 mi. I want to say the dealer did replace the filter at one of the service intervals but I'd have to dig that info up.

 

Well it did it again.
I replaced a wheel bearing this morning. Before I tried moving the car up the driveway to a better spot and it wouldn't start. Finished the bearing and tossed on the winter wheels still didn't start. Shook the car and banged on the fuel pump no start. Went inside ate lunch and watched some tv. Go back out lift the rear seat to listen for pump and it starts right up.
I have a new filter and pump but I also have a full tank so I'm not eager to replace these yet.

 

Be sure to report back after you replace the pump and filter.

 

So it back
It's been fine for a couple months but it's back. It seems the temp needs to be over 15F for my car to start. Still cranks no start.
I'm waiting on my new wrx to arrive. So I just need it to work a few more days.

I still want to blame the fuel pump relay, which is hard wired in 2006 (not socketed). Not really wanting to tear apart the fuse box especially not knowing for sure that it will fix the issue but I may have to if it completely stops working
Still no other good theories what's wrong.