Question: Do Mini's need the torx screw that hold the rotor on. I know there use is mainly for manufacturing but I'm concerned about the safety of it. All 4 of my bolt are stuck, its actually so stuck it warped by t50 driver.

 

Nope. you can drill the heads out to make it possible to change the rotor.
The lug bolts hold the rotor on just fine. It just keeps it in place until you do that
anyway.

 

We normally heat them up before even trying to break them loose. If you strip it out a hammer and chisel and get them out most the time.

If you end up breaking the bolt you can go without it as the wheel bolts will for sure not allow it to turn.

 

I do a set of these at least once a day the key you ask? tap the bolt with a ball pen hammer a few times to loosen any rust and than have at it with an impact screw driver get them every time .

another more expensive option is they have an adapter for a air hammer which is a impact screw driver on steroids. I have never needed it so I really don't know the effectiveness.

as for a stuck or broken one drill the head of it and go with out it. you'll be fine

 

I have always used anti-lube on mine and don't tighten them down even to the recommended torque. That way they have been easy to remove ... until I had to have Bill Jacobs MIMI of Naperville Illinois do some work for me on one wheel. They cranked it down so hard I couldn't get it out so I live without it and without any problems. Too bad my preventative maintenance couldn't prevent some idiot with an impact wrench from messing it all up!

 

I never anti seize them anymore I never have an issue 99% of the time I tighten them down with impact screw driver and one tap of hammer

 

Sorry I forgot to respond, but after 2 days and a ridiculous time drilling out the bolts I finally finished.


Thanks for the help guys. Screw the bolts I popped the top off the torx and they'll stay that way.

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sometimes if u drill just the top u can actually grab the threads with the rotor off with a vise grip and remove what's left

 

next time try SEARCH

there are few problems that have not been addressed B4

I have responded IN DETAIL about the rotor bolt issue several times.

Knowing how to RESEARCH a question goes beyond hanging a question at the grocery store . .... In the old days this meant knowing how to 'work' the library ... today it means knowing how to GOOGLE

for OP

I'd bet a donut with sprinkles that had you followed advice already posted you would have removed those bolts easily ... with no special tools .... and no DESTRUCTION . . .

but don't mind me .... I've only been an owner since

 

I had googled and NAM searched solutions but nothing worked unfortunately.

I did read that a few times that they don't really do anything but it's one of those things where unless someone says it directly- your a bit hesitant on it. I hope that's not just me....


With 96k miles on it though I'm guessing those were the stock rotors. The suburu dealership I got it from were nice enough to change the pads for me though..........

On the plus they came out nice.




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fancy looking rotors what pad rotor combo did u go with

 

I've used pb blaster, a torch, a hammer and punch, and a manual impact driver (very satisfying to hit with a hammer) but I prefer to just use anti-seize and very little torque. I've never had to drill them out, but I did have to pay a garage $30 once to free one up, they're the ones that told me to use an impact wrench, which I already had.

 

For the pads I went with EBC's Reds and for the rotors; DBA-- T3 for the front and T3 for the rear.

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interesting let me know how they are after the bedding process