Hoping someone knows what this is.
I think it might be related to the control arm but I'm not sure.

On the passenger side only when I turn to the right only at low speeds I get this loud pop/clank. I can feel it. Feels like it's in the floorboard. Like something is dislocating. When I straighten the wheel it pops again. Never when I turn left. Just right.

I just hit 89k. I'm at that replace all the things stage but I just want to know if this falls within that bushings/mounts category or something possibly more serious.
Thankyooou.

 

The previous owner of my R53 butchered the Powerflex bushing installation and the right side would clunk at slow speeds, so it could be your bushings. At 89k if your LCA bushings haven't been replaced it's time to do so. Kick the tires and see if the wheel wobbles - they should be stationary.


Could also be your CV joint. Check the boots for tears or if there's grease all over the area.

 

I kicked and didn't budge.
I'll have my husband try for me tomorrow to see if results are the same.

I'll check for tears and grease tomorrow as well.

 

X2 on the CV joints. .. especially when it knocks when turning...

 

Hopefully I'll be able to check today.

Anyway to know if I'll need to either flat out replace it or if it can be repaired?

 

A bad CV joint means a swap, usually of the Axel....if just the boot was torn (no noise, but leaking grease) you might try to fix it...
Once the bearings wear, only option is replace....
Not saying it is a CV joint...I might get the suspension looked at, maybe even the motor mounts(usually related to power not turns for clunks)...tell the shop what it is doing...maybe a strut is bad and clunking, or something more serious...when it comes to noises, best thing to do is take the shop guy for a 5 minute drive if they don't spot is quick....

 

And one tip...
Some of the cheaper aftermarket axels offer lifetime warrenty, but frankly are junk, and fail regularly if you push the car....so choose the part wisely that you use for replacement. My general suggestion is if you are paying a shop to swap a part, the labor is $$$, so get a good part...
If you are diy'ing it, then you pick based upon how you value your own time...both from breakdowns and from repeting a job over every few months, even if the part is free...