Hello I have a 2005 Mini Cooper S R53. I am currently experiencing a no start problem. It will crank and sounds like a normal crank (as in it is not weakened or slow) but it will not fire. Originally, I thought this may be the cause of a bad head gasket. I suspected the head gasket for two reasons. #1: Gas fumes in the coolant tank. #2: There was water in the oil. I had my trustworthy mechanic do the head gasket swap and it still doesn't start after putting it back together. He has Mini specific software for testing, reading, and clearing codes as well as generic software. Both are spitting out the same thing: P1720. This code is associated, per Google answer, with the following:
" Possible causes
- VDC/TCS/ABS to ECM circuit harness is open or shorted
- TCM to ECM circuit harness is open or shorted
- VDC/TCS/ABS to ECM circuit connectors
- TCM to ECM circuit connectors
- Faulty revolution sensor

When is the code detected?
Malfunction is detected when ECM detects a difference between two vehicle speed sensor signals is out of the specified range.

The Engine Control Module (ECM) receives two vehicle speed sensor signals via the Control Area Network (CAN) communication line. One is sent from Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) / Traction Control System (TCS) / Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) control unit, and the other is from Transmission Control Module (TCM). ECM uses these two signals for engine control"

He has cleared the code and has tried to start it only resulting in the same no start as before and the code resurfaces.With all of that information, it leads me to several questions.
#1: Can the trans control module be reset?
#2: Where is the trans control module located?
#3: What fuse, if any, is associated with the TCM?
#4: Would this cause a crank but no fire?

For some additional background info: The fuel pump primes. There is spark to the plugs and new plugs have been installed. Unaware of the status of battery. Took it to Advanced Auto Parts and they tested it after charging it because it was low. Results came back as good. There was standing water in the boot to the right of the battery. This may have caused me an electrical problem but everything is working fine besides my obvious predicament.

All in all, I could really use some help with this. I got it used with 114k miles and have already replaced the crank pulley, the coolant assembly housing that all the hoses connect to, the expansion tank, and a complete head set as mentioned earlier in the post. Thank you for your time and effort in trying to help me narrow this problem down to get me back on the road again.

 

I would start by Disconnecting the ECM and reconnecting it. Check clean the connector.

Lots of additional Diagnostics need to be done, verify the injectors are squirting, the spark is at the proper timing (near TDC).

The Fuse/Relays are located either under the Bonnet or on the outside kick panel of the drivers compartment down in the foot well. The Fuse/Relay positions are depicted on the inside covers. (See Image)

(I made the assumption that in the process of trying to start the car starting fluid was used, over pressured the compression and popped the head gasket).

Best of luck

Motor on!

 

...the mixing of fluids here is the important info....
Anything odd happen BEFORE the non-start?
Try a quick compression check to make sure your timing was set right from the head gasket change?

 

Before the no start, I had the cooling issue. After the cooling issue was resolved I started to experience the beginning of the no start phase. It would sometimes start up feeling like it was running on two cylinders. It would take maybe 5 tries of turning it off and turning it back on before that smoothed itself out and it would run normal. I made it to work on day and on my lunch I went out to the car and started it and it started again roughly and smoothed out. Later that night when leaving to go home, I tried to start it and it was dead. I was also getting the EP wear the gear indicator would typically be. I had to have it towed home. This was around Christmas. Every day I would try to start it and it was doing the same thing, just cranking normal but would not fire. I had nearly half a tank of gas and I thought that I would try adding more 93 octane just for ***** and giggles. Well I did that, 2 gallons worth, and it wanted to start better. I eventually got it to start after trying and trying. Let it sit for a few more days because I went out of town for Christmas. When I got back home I was not able to start it even after trying the gas trick again and it hasn't started since. A little side note here: When I got it started after adding those two gallons, EP went away but the service engine soon light was flashing.

 

When the head gasket was done, was the head checked for warping?
I'm thinking the overheating warped stuff, or the timing is off......
And WHAT did it do with the overheating... The start...kinda thinking it all goes back to the start...
And a flashing check engine light means a code is getting stored in most cases...
PS...
BY.. U KNOW 93 is what you should be using anyway with a pulley or 91 without right?

 

Timing was marked so that it could be reassembled correctly. Head was checked for warping. We checked and re-checked.

Initially my overheating issue started with a hose connector that broke resulting in the return line from the expansion tank being completely free. I had to replace the coolant assembly that all hoses are connected to for just the one little piece that broke off. That sealed the coolant system externally BUT if I was idle for maybe 5 minutes or longer, it would overheat again. I kept adding coolant and it slowly kept disappearing ( keep in mind this is all after replacing the part listed above ). It turned out to be leaking from the coolant tank itself in which I replaced with an aluminum tank. That sealed the coolant system again externally for the second time but I was still overheating at idle for 5 minutes or longer. Shortly after I replaced that (I'm talking maybe a day or two), some a-hole hit my car while parked in my driveway resulting in a busted tail light, bumper damage, and trunk lid damage. Back to my point. The fact that I was still getting the overheating issue is what made me suspect the head gasket was at fault. Shortly thereafter my current problem started.

 

About 5 minutes of overheating after running low on coolant or having the cooling system partial drain and refilled is consistent with an air bubble from improper bleeding (could be other reasons, but if the system went low/leaked, buble is most common)...that's why I asked....a couple overheats, and things get MUCH worse.....
I'd still run a compression check...about as easy as changing the sparkplug, and the tool is usually free to borrow, or can be bought pretty cheap...
The "ep" on the tranny is interesting...but I have never even driven an auto mini...I just know it is an error...
Sounds like you are due for some good luck....

 

Anything that closely resembles good luck would be welcome with open arms. I miss driving the Mini.