I'm assuming no fluid should not be leaking out of the motor mount, which the dealer replaced a couple years ago.
Is this tricky to replace? It was part of some expensive repairs . The part apears to be only ~$90 gt I'm assuming a lot of labor charge.

Also need to buy clips to put the fender molding back on the hood. No clue why that's failing either. There's also the slightly sticky rear caliper, rear wiper motor that is a bit wonky. Slightly deformed strut towers...

Maybe I was wrong that buying a newer car would be way more expensive then keeping this one on the road... working on a pretty descent repair bill for the month.

(See my last post about mice in the cabin air filter)

 

If the engine mount is leaking, it's broken. It's not really tricky to replace, you just need to support the engine, access the bolt under the mount (female torx) and unbolt it from the top, throw the old one as far as possible and install the new one. First gen engines like to lean back a little once you remove the mount, so you might have to rock it forward to align everything back for the bolts.

 

Then do a $1 rear wiper delete....a plug...or buy the unit from someone who wants to delete theirs to be "stylish" and is willing to yank the parts to get $50 or so....
And you can swap out the rear caliper...just had one done on my car...would have diy'ed It, but was a time issue...part was a "centric" reman, think they hit me for about $200 plus install, then the rest of the brake job on the rear that had to be done....
One tip...
If you do your own motor mount, get the new bolt for $1.50 that goes with it....when the old mount leaks, the gunk can corrode it, and make it hard to Remove without destroying it...
Strut towers...
Craven stuttower defenders....
Bush them back with a block of wood and a hammer, then install...the std's will pull some of it back too...
Last time I had a mount done for me, it was $180 installed, OEM part at an aftermarket shop....took them maybe 20 minutes.

 

If you decide to do the engine mount yourself, you will need the female torx bit and a long extension. I would also order some clips for the wheel well liner because some will break or strip when removing. I keep a pile of them on hand because the closest dealership is 90 minutes away. You will want to remove the liner to clean up the mess from the leak.

Also if you plan to keep the car a long time (40,000 or so) you might want to think about getting an aftermarket engine mount because the OEM will leak again. Check WayMotorWorks.com for aftermarket replacement.

While you have access to the engine you might want to check/replace the belt tensioner or at least the bushings.

 

the motor mount is pretty easy to do. You will need the E12 female torx socket for the bottom bolt.
I do about 2 of these a week at the shop.
http://waymotorworks.com/aftermarket...unt-04-06.html

 

Thanks for all the advice. Everything went quickly and easily.
Not sure if a 12" socket extension payed for itself.