2005 R53 MCS, strange noises.
Thread Starter
|
4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 459
Likes: 10
2005 R53 MCS, strange noises.
Hey guys, I own a 2005 MCS. 90k miles. Some strange noises are happening.
(picture if anyone is curious. Belonged to a family friend named Max. If you're still reading these forums, thanks.)
First, when going slow and letting on / off throttle or brakes there is a strange clunking coming from the back right. I believe this is a problem with the swaybar bushings, but just want some reassurance. Also, under moderate braking to hard braking the car wants to steer to the right. This is a serious safety concern for me so I'd like to get it fixed ASAP. (Mainly looking for input from other owners who have had this problem, and what the fix was.)
Second one is at low RPM, 700-1200 (I'm sure the noise exists elsewhere I just can't hear it) there is a knocking noise that seems to get more rapid as the RPM's increase. Almost like a rod knock / valve tick noise. Any ideas there? Supercharger maybe?
Car has been maintained mostly on time. Sometimes the oil changes go more than 5000 miles between each. Hasn't had any major service besides for new rotors and brake pads, really.
Thanks in advance.
(picture if anyone is curious. Belonged to a family friend named Max. If you're still reading these forums, thanks.)
First, when going slow and letting on / off throttle or brakes there is a strange clunking coming from the back right. I believe this is a problem with the swaybar bushings, but just want some reassurance. Also, under moderate braking to hard braking the car wants to steer to the right. This is a serious safety concern for me so I'd like to get it fixed ASAP. (Mainly looking for input from other owners who have had this problem, and what the fix was.)
Second one is at low RPM, 700-1200 (I'm sure the noise exists elsewhere I just can't hear it) there is a knocking noise that seems to get more rapid as the RPM's increase. Almost like a rod knock / valve tick noise. Any ideas there? Supercharger maybe?
Car has been maintained mostly on time. Sometimes the oil changes go more than 5000 miles between each. Hasn't had any major service besides for new rotors and brake pads, really.
Thanks in advance.
You can try this for the fan squeak.
An idea for you.....it might work for a while....lube the fan...I did...and it is now quiet..... remove the airfilter.....then feel around...reach under the center of the dash...and you will feel the fan...it is a squeral cage style fan....like a drum with lots of little blades on the sides... What i did was 1) I used some Mobil 1 spray lube...not sure if is is still around, but great stuff....used a really long hose...like the ones that come on the areosol sea-foam container, and by reaching around with the hose in my hand, found the center mount...sprayed it, and a tiny but around the side, just incase the blades were rubbing the side of the housing...This oil is like WD-40, but does not evoperate...it is after all a very light synthetic MOBIL 1. 2) Then I took some lithium grease, put it on my finger, and applied it to the center area...playing with it, to try to work it in. I then replaced the filter.....and it worked fine....the squeal is gone 99% of the time, and 1% of the time, it is hardly noticeable....since the replacement of the fan is so hard...if it is working, it might be worth a shot!! I have had not odd smells from the oil, or anything.....But I was very careful not to overdo it!! Good Luck!!
6th Gear
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,486
Likes: 7
From: Orcutt, CA
For the rear clunk I would also suspect a loose sway bar end link. There is also a rubber bushing at the top of the strut that could be worn out. You might need to jack the car up and wiggle things to replicate the noise in order to isolate the problem.
The steering to the right under braking could just be an alignment issue that can be resolved with a good four wheel alignment. Another common problem is that the front lower control arm bushing wear out and that could be the cause.
For the engine noise I suggest trying to isolate where the noise is coming from by listening to various engine parts with an automotive stethoscope or long screwdriver (ear on handle).
The steering to the right under braking could just be an alignment issue that can be resolved with a good four wheel alignment. Another common problem is that the front lower control arm bushing wear out and that could be the cause.
For the engine noise I suggest trying to isolate where the noise is coming from by listening to various engine parts with an automotive stethoscope or long screwdriver (ear on handle).
For the rear clunk I would also suspect a loose sway bar end link. There is also a rubber bushing at the top of the strut that could be worn out. You might need to jack the car up and wiggle things to replicate the noise in order to isolate the problem.
The steering to the right under braking could just be an alignment issue that can be resolved with a good four wheel alignment. Another common problem is that the front lower control arm bushing wear out and that could be the cause.
For the engine noise I suggest trying to isolate where the noise is coming from by listening to various engine parts with an automotive stethoscope or long screwdriver (ear on handle).
The steering to the right under braking could just be an alignment issue that can be resolved with a good four wheel alignment. Another common problem is that the front lower control arm bushing wear out and that could be the cause.
For the engine noise I suggest trying to isolate where the noise is coming from by listening to various engine parts with an automotive stethoscope or long screwdriver (ear on handle).
get it looked at if you are not sure what to look for...but i'd bet $$ the lower control arm bushings.....
Thunk in the rear is USUALLY a swaybar (endlink or brushing)....check them out and add lube as needed....some swaybar bushings have fittings for a grease-gun.....
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 168
Likes: 4
From: Ventura county, CA
Nice looking R53! I can't tell from your post if it is a 6sp, or an auto, but for the engine speed-related noise, i would start with: clutch issues (throw out bearing). Does the sound change when the clutch is pushed in/let out? Another thing to check is the belt tensioner. Theses items are more likely to be wearing out on a 90k mi car than the s/c. Also check the damper pulley. I dont know what these sound like when they go out (i think they just go KABLAMMO, and dont make much noise prior to failing).
Thread Starter
|
4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 459
Likes: 10
Thanks for the recommendations guys. Buddy works for a shop so ill grab some lift time. The noise from the blowe hasnt gone away. Time for a new one? :(
Thanks Rogue. It's a 6 speed. The noise is present with it in gear rolling at idle, not in gear and not w.. the noise for the engine is there regardless of what I am doing with the transmission ;p (is anyone elses 6speed a bit notchy and sounds like its not meshing right if you shift too quick?)
I was going to do the pulley swap and replace the idler, belt, and the tensioner bushings but I got into a fender bender. (1500 dollars!!!)
So it might be time to change those out and see if the noise goes away since I was gonna do it anyways?
Thanks Rogue. It's a 6 speed. The noise is present with it in gear rolling at idle, not in gear and not w.. the noise for the engine is there regardless of what I am doing with the transmission ;p (is anyone elses 6speed a bit notchy and sounds like its not meshing right if you shift too quick?)
I was going to do the pulley swap and replace the idler, belt, and the tensioner bushings but I got into a fender bender. (1500 dollars!!!)
So it might be time to change those out and see if the noise goes away since I was gonna do it anyways?
Trending Topics
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 168
Likes: 4
From: Ventura county, CA
I think to go through the accessory belt setup is a good starting point. If all is well with the belt assembly, and the noise is not a clutch-related issue, then unfortunately it may be a s/c or H2O pump related noise. If you are industrious, you might consider checking, and replenishing the s/c oil just to help determine if this is the source of the sound. There are a couple of "how to" guides on-line detailing this task. I did it to make sure all fluids were new and filled just for peace of mind when i got my car at 93k mi.
I went from a high-mileage R50 with a 5sp to my 6 sp R53 with lower mileage, and the shifting on the R53 felt a bit notchy to me. The shift mechanism on an R53 is cable-actuated, and has a slightly less-positive and notchy feel than other manual cars i was used to. In other words: your shifter is normal. you have to be deliberate in your shifts, especially when shifting quickly.
I went from a high-mileage R50 with a 5sp to my 6 sp R53 with lower mileage, and the shifting on the R53 felt a bit notchy to me. The shift mechanism on an R53 is cable-actuated, and has a slightly less-positive and notchy feel than other manual cars i was used to. In other words: your shifter is normal. you have to be deliberate in your shifts, especially when shifting quickly.
Last edited by RogueMini; Aug 11, 2014 at 08:55 AM.
Thread Starter
|
4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 459
Likes: 10
Strange thing on that, when I really lean on the throttle I can almost hear a water noise. Like, rushing water over a broken piece of metal kind of. Really hard to describe.
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,387
Likes: 14
From: Near Buffalo NY
Could be air in your coolant system, leaky thermostat gasket recently?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Wohnson89
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
4
Jun 10, 2020 04:53 AM
Finhead
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
4
Aug 20, 2015 08:40 AM
R50/53 Replacement AC compressor??
PrimePower
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
9
Aug 16, 2015 06:29 PM