Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Engine Ground Wire Trouble

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  #1  
Old 08-02-2014, 07:06 PM
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I did it.... Mark me up as dummy #99763837. Over torqued my bolt and on an angle which sheared the ground Mount in half. Can I file off the rest and drill a hole at the top of the support wishbone and ground through there?

Engine Ground Wire Trouble-forumrunner_20140802_220547.jpg

I believe the support is part number 22116763252. But I could use that $100 towards VibraTechnics mounts since my lower could use some stiffening.
 
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Old 08-03-2014, 12:47 AM
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Or just fit another one somewre else. Fit two if you like to double bag or you can't find a beefy point to tie onto.
 
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Old 08-03-2014, 11:19 AM
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Could I just grind off the mount and drill through the big cast block to bolt on there?
 
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Old 08-03-2014, 12:33 PM
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Drill through a cast piece of metal? Won't it weaken it severely?

Is there no other option?

Electricity can flow throw any low impedance route.
 
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Old 08-03-2014, 03:40 PM
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I tried going on the passenger motor mount bolt and the bolt holding down the black vacuum thing. Neither allowed the car to start.

Engine Ground Wire Trouble-forumrunner_20140803_184042.jpg
 
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Old 08-03-2014, 04:41 PM
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I did that last year. I found a threaded hole on the top of the block, just under the head on the front of the engine facing the frame rail on the side there.

I sanded it real good, but about six months later my computer dropped coil pack a. I replaced the coil, plugs, wires, traced everything and the fault was in the computer. I took it to a shop to confirm my diagnosis before spending $1500 on a new computer.

$1800 later the car was running strong on all 4 again, and they said that the computer failed because of a bad ground. -I guess I should have put a little die-electric grease on there to keep the cast iron on the block from rusting again? In the end I replaced the $100 mount anyway (just to make sure I don't burn up another computer)
 
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Old 08-03-2014, 06:30 PM
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I thought about threading into that hole too. I just want it drivable for now.
 
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:35 AM
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Yea,

Its that mount right here. Make sure both connections are clean. I hope the alt and battery are good and something is not wrong worth the computer.

22116763252 12/2003+ gen 1 MINI manual transmission on Cooper S/ JCW. .

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/22116763252/




Has to have a good solid contact.
 
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:23 AM
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ECS. I don't need to replace the bracket, do I? I can get away with just grounding onto the bracket bolt that holds the black vacuum thing, correct?
 
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:31 AM
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Yes. Just drill a hole in that bracket and bolt it up. We have seen them snap off and that is how we fix it with no problem.
 
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:44 AM
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DATBILLO - You have to have a good solid contact, if you decide to drill make sure the connection is sound. Clean both sides and the place where it makes contact.
 
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:47 AM
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Thanks much DT
 
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Old 08-05-2014, 05:21 PM
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Ground has been relocated to super charger mount under the air horn. Still nothing. Actually. Electronics go nuts.
 
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Old 08-05-2014, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DATBILLO
Ground has been relocated to super charger mount under the air horn. Still nothing. Actually. Electronics go nuts.
Cause you did not "fix" it....
The motor is isolated from the rest of the car....You need to connect the motor yo the rest of the car with a big grounding strap, aka a big wire....grounds are big wires for a reason... Contact must be good, and the wire/strap big enough to keep impedance low...
Sounds like you grounded the cars electronics and made a big ground loop....just trying visualize where you tied in vs the engine mount.......
Did you check the screw you used with a ohm meter? The sc has lots of gaskets...bad for grounds...
 
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:03 PM
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Its the bolt you see near the 16mm for the belt tensioner. Right on the block under the charger air horn. Its to the block. Not the charger itself. I had a few people say try it. One guys been doing it for 5 years now there.
 
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