Hey all,

As I've been working towards refreshing many bits on my 05 MCS, I decided to tackle on replacing the slave cyclinder (Was groaning and leaking a little)....................................

After about 5 QTs of brake fluid and 2 new slave cyclinders, I am still having some issues.

First install was a massive failure which was done in a hurry (Didn't compress the slave......... hoping to bleed the slave afterwards - Learned it hard way)

Second slave cyclinder was properly compressed with DIY steering wheel puller and two long bolts. The second one was also bled with motive power bleeder.

Well, here's my repeating issue:

- Pedal pressure is right on but clutch engagement point changed (Used to be very high but now its very close to the floor), suspecting there are some air trapped in there...
- No matter how much fluid I run through the slave in attempt to bleed it, I only see clear fluids, free of air bubbles
- Gears do shift without much of an issue

I will be tackling it again tomorrow with my wifey as helper.

Any tips on doing the bleeding with the cyclinder on the car is much appreciated, as well as why the heck this slave cyclinder is trying so hard to not get bleddddddddddddd!!!

Thanks in advance!

 

Make sure the slave is oriented so the bleed valve is pointed upwards when bleeding.
If that doesn't do it, then the catch point might be inherent in the new slave cylinder. FWIW, my MCS has had a low catch point since it was new from the factory.

 

I went through the same frustration. Finally I wedged a piece of wood between the seat frame and the fully depressed clutch peddle. Left it there for 24 hours and presto the air bled itself out! Nothing else worked up to that point. It solved 3 days of frustration.

 

+1 million

Nothing to loose by trying this method.

 

Let us know how it worked. Others have tried it and had success

 

Thanks for the response all!

I tried that method of wedging something to hold the pedal overnight (For my 1st slave cylinder) and it didn't do no good.

Since I've attacked the second slave cylinder properly, I might as well give it a shot!

Oh btw, do you leave the reservoir cap off over night also or do you keep the system in vacuum??

Thanks alot again!!

 

I had 1/2 turn on the lid to equalize any pressure.
Prior to using the stick depressor, we were bleeding what looked like pure fluid out of the slave but noticed micro bubbles in the fluid from extensive peddle bleeding.

 

I mentioned the method of depressing the clutch peddle for 24 hours . I didn't mention that prior to installing the peddle depressor, I pumped the limp peddle several times. Then after the 24 hours I had to then pump my clutch peddle 4-5 times at which time it returned to normal. At first it didn't appear the trick had worked until I pumped the limp peddle. Sorry for not stating that important step earlier.

 

Hm sorry but what do you mean by 'limp peddle'?
But thanks for the heads up!

 

By that I mean no resistance, dead, weak, almost went to the floor on its own.

 

Got cha.
Since my pedal pressure is about normal at the moment,
I will just pump it a few times, put in a stick and let it sit over night

Again, thanks for the tips & heads up!
Fingers crossed.

 

Well, great news!
The slave cylinder has been bled fully!
I forgot all about the fact that I left the clutch pedal pressed overnight. So the pedal was pressed in for couple of days and yes, the bite point, pedal pressure is just spot on..!

I guess this sums up my journey of bleeding slave cylinder..

- Get a GM steering wheel puller and 2 long screws from a local hardware store. ---> Click on the Amazon link to purchase the setup I've used. Very nice piece!
- Compress the cylinder fully using the GM steering wheel puller and two long screws you've picked up.

- Hook up the clutch line to the new cylinder with the bleeder pointed upward (Tilt the new cylinder, so the air can escape more easily)

- Bleed the new cylinder and afterwards, loosen the steering puller slowly to allow fluids to fill in

- Mount the cylinder on the car,

- Pump the pedal ~5 times or so.

- pop the reservoir cap open just slightly

- Put a long stick of some sort to press on the clutch pedal fully

- Set it over night or two

- Remove the long stick and test out the car

I assume with proper tool to compress the cylinder, this could have been a headache free, easy job. So please, pick one up from the link I've provided above (It is dang cheap too!)

I hope this helps anyone who is about to tackle the monstrous slave cylinder on R53

 

and the 2x4 solution slave's the day

again

great job - and happy motoring!

 

When all else fails, turn to the laws of physics...... and beer!