Well folks....my luck with a near perfect running MINI might be over....
The other night I had a rapid cut out/stutter. (about 3300 rpm highway...revving to higher in neural would make it run smooth..and ok back in gear for a bit)..with the DSC light coming on....no code till I shut the car off, and restarted...
Upon restart, the code pops up...
car ran home..about 40 miles...ran OK...but not good..better than before...but still just a rapid stutter/powerloss..same code, same dsc light...
Did some searching...found this..Posted by NATHAN on the other MINI forum..aka MA
Read more: http://www.*********************/for...#ixzz31jVopgkG

went to order the part...can get it here on Wednesday....but a friend who works in a different dealer at the parts counter says very few of these are sold...so they are not even stocked....
History here...car is TUNED, RMW...has been basically trouble free for 80,000 miles since new...(about 40,000 on the tune)...


....the OEM part is about $80 from emini parts (sister dealer to MASSMINI parts a sponsor here on NAM) (will have it instock on Wednesday, local pickup..the NAPA part was $140, autozone was 200+).

installed....the new part and good to go!! Runs great..smooth...powerful...back to smoking the tires!!
The folks over at emini parts (mini of Bedford NH) got me the part this am...
Plugged it it...cleared the code, and all is back to normal!!
Funny thing is, the OEM was half the cost of the NAPA part....and 1/3 the cost of auto zone part....
So Nathans threads and info continues to help us in his absence!! Tuff to beat that!!

 

So hopefully this info will help out a few folks...
I found it interesting that the part is not even stocked at many dealers...but found a couple folks who have had the same issue...and from reading here...so few folks have found a fix...
I did have the DSC turn on on a HARD near redline pull about a week before this happened...so I'd bet $$$ that is a sigh the sensor is on the way out!!

 

Just an update....
This spring, we have had some crazy tempture swings here in NH...
to make a long story short, the car ran fine on cool/cold days, but on a couple warm days, reverted to its prior behavior....
Did some more research....found some BMW/mini info on how the ecu works with the two map/t-map sensors....
So figured it was with changing the t-map sensor (r53 specific part) located on the front of the intake by the radiator...aka "hotside map", it looks just like the cold side map sensor (which is actually a r50 t-map, with the temp feature not used, hence it has 3 wires on the plug as opposed to the 4 on the hot-side)....
Ordered it from mini again (same great folks at eminiparts.com, sister dealer to the vendor minimassparts.com) and got it in a couple days...it is a special order part...plugged it in...car is back to normal, all is great.
My take from this....
If you suspect a MAP/TMAP issue on a r53...which has a p0108 code, usually the start AFTER you get a DSC light and poor running in warmer temps (mine was above 70 and around 3200 rpm), it might be worth it to change BOTH sensors.... Ordering them with the online discount they are about $80 each...so say $160, cheaper than I was quoted for just the cold side sensor at auto zone... And Napa wanted $140 for the cold side...so to save the hassel IMO, just get both... A pretty easy swap...and be done with it...on top of that...IMO you should TRY to use OEM ENGINE SENSORS when possible...let's face it...some parts are critical...and the OEM was actually CHEAPER in this case....
And just to warn folks...the hot side t-map, a r53 specific part LOOKS compatible with the cold side map/r50 t-map, but the limits are very different, so not interchangeable....
I did find many online parts places listed the r50 map for both cars, but DID NOT SHOW the r53 t-map sensor....
If anything else changes, I'll update this..but with an test drive and then a 50 mile drive...I kinda suspect the issue is solved....
Kinda sad...waded through about 10 posts on the subject... Many were "open" or unanswered... But hopefully this info will help others.

 

I'm having the same issue... after replacing both sensors its still throwing the code on high revs.
Heard it could be the IC boots, so have ordered some Alta boots ...

 

Having almost the exact same issue. My DSC light and engine stutter/loss of power happens just over 4000 RPM. Usually between 4200 and 4500. I've had the car at my nearest Mini dealer for a week and they cannot find and absolute answer. They know for sure that P0108 happens when the DSC fault happens. The P0108 clears every time and the DSC light stays on until the car is restarted, just as ZippyNH describes above. Dealer tech thinks it may be the early signs of a failing SC. I am about to let them tear into the SC to inspect, but if this map/tmap, that would be a wasted inspect cost. I did the SC inspect and re-oil about 1.5 years ago myself (maybe 20k miles ago). ANy thoughts from you guys with this similar problem? Any updates from ZippyNH or zamfield?

 

Changing the sensors worked....no issues...sold the car a couple months back.
Not really sure HOW OR WHY a failing SC could throw this code...leaking SC boot maybe...
Many dealers, the newer ones never sold gen1 cars, and have few mechanics that regularly work on them...
Doing a search on Google, there was a BMW/MINI TIS (I think) about how to identify a bad sensor.... Fit mine to a t. Symptoms, etc...
Servicing a SC for oil has been much debated....think many folks have created more issues than have fixed getting in over their heads... Heck, I had a spare SC on the shelf for about 6 years...sold it shortly after I sold the car....
If I had to do it again, I would change BOTH the map and the t-map at the same time...then rest the adaptations...the dealer has a tool, and be good to go..
PS
IT IS ABOUT 5-7 hours to r/r a SC in a shop...go that far at $180 perhour...just replace it...makes no sense to reinstall an worn one IMO when a rebuilt one is good for 10+ years for about $600-800.
Nothing too look at or "inspect" on a SC....a pair of rotors, gears... It makes good boost and is smooth or it makes too little or has bad bearings and gears...and will be noisy...
Makes no sense to yank one to "inspect" it for a p-code IMO unless you suspect a failed gasket, but a smoke test, etc can check for that...trying to sell you a $800 labor bill when a 20 minute test with a smoke machine would do the same test?!
Might want a diffent dealer...
Heck the sensors just take a torix bit and 5 minutes to change....

 

I'm having the same problem.

Has anyone checked their sensor before replacing? As both of these sensors must be ordered I proceeded to check them out before hand.

I checked voltages on both of mine.

TMAP
Pin 4 reads 1.68v with or without key ign switched to on.
It travels to zero with vacuum.

MAP
Pin 4 reads 3.51v only with the key ign on.
It travels to 2.1v with vacuum.

I believe from the wiring diagram that the ground and power to both sensors are the same. So the TMAP shouldn't be getting voltage with the car off? But also the voltage seems low.


Anyone who can chime in as to the correct readings would be helpful.

 

Only 7 years later and looking for the same information! Car goes into limp mode. P0107 P1688. MAP is at 3.9 V just with key on and around 1.7 when idling. Car stalls during idle sometimes, and the MAP reads around 2.0 when I watched it stall once. When I rev it, the voltages change. So the sensor is at least changing the voltage and not completely dead.