I've tried searching the forums for this issue and couldn't find it.

I bought my Mini brand new and the only major repair done on it since was a new alternator (warranty) by a BMW dealer.

The story thus far:

I try to start my Mini and it turns over twice and quits. I try again and I get absolutely nothing. No click, no grinding, nothing. The lights don't dim so I figure it might be the clutch safety switch and replace it with a new one purchased from a Mini dealer. Same problem still exists. I then figure it could be the starter moter and I buy a starter from Autozone (I realize they aren't the best place to buy parts from but money and time was an issue). The new starter has an extra terminal that the OEM starter did not have. This 'extra' terminal was located on what would be the 'bottom side' of the solenoid as it is installed. I call the 'techline' for the starter manufacturer and they say that it is a 'dead' terminal that is not used on my car so just ignore it. So I do. I hook everything up exactly the way I found it (the two large gauge wires on the large terminal and the smaller gauge wire on the terminal located on the top of the solenoid as it is installed). I try to start and the starter engages, starts the engine, and will not disengage. I turn off the car and pull the key out and the starter is still running. I quickly disconnect/reconnect the battery and the starter stops running. I try to start the car again and it takes about 3 or 4 seconds to start (usually takes 1 second). I turn off the car immediately to check if starter is still running and it is not. I start again, and the starter won't disengage no matter what. You can hear it whining with the engine rpm's.

After all that, I figure I got a bad starter and get a replacement from Autozone (warranty). This time I get everything back together and it starts perfectly except the starter will not disengage. I turn off and on again and the engine starts immediately but starter is still engaged.

This is baffling me. I have always worked on my own cars and have restored a few muscle cars but have never had this type of problem. Old starters had shims to remedy this but the Mini does not (to my knowledge).

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Try an OEM one, see if that makes a difference. It does with the some other belt driven parts such as MINI alternators.

 

Autozone has a pretty bad history with selling starters that just don't fit or are the wrong one for mini's....
+1 on just go get the OEM....
The line about the terminals is just a "leftover" from other uses tells the story...semi universal parts...bolted together...so they kinda fit and kinda work....
Good warrenty.... My experience... Last lifetime coil (non mini) I got at autozone I got failed 3 times in one year....threw it out...bought a non-lifetime OEM part online from rockauto.....was cheaper....go figure...OEMS went 200,000 miles...the autozones 3,000-5000 EACH...
I think auto zone offers a lifetime warrenty cause they calculate by the time you a turning a wrench on your car, it will be gone within a year....so they will never have to follow through on the warrenty...letting them sell JUNK.

 

Thanks for the replies.

Could it be a bad alternator feeding backwards into the circuit fooling the solenoid into thinking the key is in the start position?

I have a line on a used oem starter but want to think of other possible causes just in case

 

Also, take a look at any wires going to the starter, make sure none are melted or chaffing and touching each other.

 

i'm having the same issue with my 2008 mini cooper clubman s. Engine starts but starter stays engaged. Swapped starters, and same problems. Didn't read a solution from above post.

 

Did anyone find a solution to this problem?
I'm in the same boat as you were but now I'm on my 3rd starter and all of them stay engaged... even the OEM one at twice the price.
Thank you...

 

Curious as well. And how easy is it to replace the starter?

 

 

My issue was a wire that needed to be replaced... Once I fixed it and tucked it away so it wouldn't be damaged all was good.

This guy does the truest step by step video. The funniest thing about the bottom bolt is having to create a 2 ft extension that you feed through the passenger side rim.. The video will show you... I managed to do it lying on my back with a couple fingers on the socket and 1st extension (on the bolt) while feeding the rest of the extensions from below then connecting all of them- You need to try it to understand...
I also found it easier to get to the top bolt by using one of those flexible socket extensions.... My $.02
Follow it step by step and you'll be good. ***THERE IS NO REASON TO HAVE TO REMOVE THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD***
www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBGnEqK4arg

 

The only other thing that wold cause a starter to not disengage (apart from the solenoid having an issue & there may be more reasons I don't know of) would be if you mistakenly attached one of the 2 power cables to the larger bolts on the starter creating a circuit... I may or may not have seen that before.... Be sure that both thick power cables are both attached to the same bolt. There are tabs on the end of each that only permit installation in a specific way.

 

I had an issue where the parts supplier used by the shop I deal with kept sending the wrong starter. My car is a 06 R53 JCW and my mechanic finally figured out that they had to order an R50 starter to get the one that would fit on my JCW. Weirdest thing ever.

 

The first Starter I received was for a non-supercharged and the nose cone is longer on an "S"....