I replaced the slave cylinder but now the pedal goes straight to the floor and when I try to bleed it with a bleeder through the fitting on the cylinder I see the air bubbles but nothing changes as far as pedal tension or any fluid going into the catch can on my bleed tool. Is it really possible to have that much air in the line or could it be something else???/

 

Not sure I understand "bleeder through the fitting on the cylinder" statement.

I just replaced mine (R50 but '06 model which is mounted on the side of the tranny like the R53). I didn't have that many bubbles come through but I swapped the new one in fast before much fluid loss. How much brake fluid do you have in the bleeder?

 

On my bleeder tool I have a hose that comes from the gun into a reservoir the a hose coming from that onto the bleeder fitting on the slave cylinder that's about as best as I can explain it


you are correct though swapping the cylinder out wasn't a huge issue the issue was that the part I got was bad and didn't realize that until I had put everything together. so by the time I put the old one back on there wasn't any fluid coming out of the hose what so ever.


then I notice that the pedal just went straight to the floor and I have to manually pull it back up. my god what have I done lol

 

sounds like you have a mighty mini vac system? Push the fluid up backwards. Don't vac it as the cylinder and line is way harder to bleed conventionally.

 

explain what you mean?

 

Hmm. How is your brake pedal? I believe if the fluid drops too much you may have to bleed them also.

 

brake pedal is fine its only the clutch pedal

 

this could help, also make sure that the slave is not leaking even if it is new.

 

Also

 

I did it exactly like the video maybe I really do just have that much air in the system like I said once I took the old one off then the new one off after realizing the part was faulty by the time I through swapping them in and out there was no fluid coming through the hose to the slave cylinder at all maybe ill double check my work again

 

Yep it isn't the easiest one to do. Push it up through like the video shows and it may take a couple times to get it all but your brake master is the reservoir for the slave too so you will see the line for the slave coming off the reservoir just above the master level so your brakes should be good. It's like a built in safety so if the slave pops you still have brakes.

 

*Update*


I figured out what the main problem was with the new slave cylinder apparently there is and cone shaped seal that goes onto the inlet tube connector to help form a air tight fit. MINE was lodged into the old slave cylinder and I couldn't see it. Now with that all sorted I started to reassemble everything I did the bleeding process as described in the videos but I may have jumped the gun when I thought I was finished. I have noticed that doing the way explained in the videos on the replies it helps to have to people. one to pump the fluid in and the other to watch the reservoir to make sure you don't shoot brake fluid everywhere. I did some of it by myself I have had luck but however I believe through having all the issues or well my horrible luck I've just gotten tons of air in the line. so im trying to find something larger than a small oil can to pump brake fluid through the slave cylinder and through the reservoir. What was SUPPOSE to be a hour job has turned into a catastrophe.

 

I think the stock plastic slave cylinders are junk. A new one does not guarantee a good one.

 

Didn't even think of that, it's even on the pelicanparts site about that same problem.

 

This thread has helped me for sure I can't thank everyone enough if I would have thought about it sooner I would have taken pictures of the grommet and fitting to show an example. But it's there if it's missing you'll know as soon as the new is on it will shoot fluid all around the pressured line.

Now all I gotta do is find a better way to bleed it

 

Try this: After you have pump bled the system as best as possible and you don't see any obvious large air bubbles then take a piece of wood and cut it to length so you can wedge it between the driver seat base and the clutch peddle; holding the peddle completely to the floor. Let it there for 24 hours. Then pull the stick out and pump the limp peddle 3 or 4 times. You should now have a good firm clutch peddle. Let us know the results.

 

Do I need to take the cap off the reservoir or bleeder screw open at the bottom?

 

I loosened my reservoir cap. Don't open the bleeder or you'll let the air in and the fluid out.


When I replaced my master and slave cylinder as mentioned above, I pump bled the system until the fluid was clear of air bubbles. However you'll still have air trapped in the system. The 24 hour stick method keeps pressure on the system for the air to slowly migrate out.

 

Any updates on your slave cylinder bleeding issue????

 

Sorry for a late reply I will NEVER replace my slave cylinder again! Turns out I ended up having to replace it the line that connects into it and the master cylinder then you have to bench bleed as best as possible then bleed it again the motive products pressure bleeder is an absolute awesome tool but trust it's worth having a worthy mechanic do or you'll pull your hair out

 

The process in the video worked great. then I realized I used power steering fluid instead of break fluid. so I disconnected both the master and slave flushed them and put them back together, but now I can't get the fluid to fill the line using the method shown in the first video.

I did notice that he fiddles with the master to get the fluid to pump through. could it be that I just need to get the master situated right or do I have to replace the master and slave with new ones?

 

That's what I had to do regardless I read on some other forums it was best to do that anyways. Regardless the slave cylinder is a nightmare in my opinion!

 

Since you put in the wrong fluid you will need to flush the whole thing, including the brake since is the same reservoir in this case it should be great if you can get your hands on some ATE Blue that way you'll have a better visual confirmation but retailers are not selling them anymore due to the new law, there may be some retailer that still have some inventory

 

You can actually still buy it off eBay if you wanted to use it although it says for track use only what the DOT don't know won't hurt lol

 

I didn't run the car after putting the power steering fluid in the clutch line and I didn't press the brakes at any point. I took the master and the slave off and flushed both the line and both cylinders, and while some of the fluid got into the brake reservoir, I used a turkey baster and sucked out all contaminated fluid. so the brake line should be fine.


but I can't seem to get fluid to fill the clutch line using the method shown in the video after putting everything back together. is the master finicky or did I screw it up and need to be replaced?