I use the motive products power bleeder it's awesome for getting old fluid out and new fluid in. You might also check out Bavarian auto they have similar stuff made to change and extract fluids

 

OK--not the only one that hates this clutch system

Best method

1-prep the new slave cylinder with flat bar and 2 bolts as shown in video--completely compress the new slave
2-remove old slave from transmission leaving feed line attached.
3-swap slaves
4-leave slave hanging and attach the pressure bleed tool and pump it up
5-open bleeder with slave hanging--bleeder above the feed line. Close the bleed screw
6-release new slave most of the way -- as you release the screws the slave will fill with pressurized fluid and no air. Open bleed screw again with the slave hanging down (air will rise). Close it again.
7-install slave (best to release pressure from bleed tool)--be sure to keep it partially compressed (by hand) as you install it. The piston can be pushed completely out of the cylinder and the rubber seal can be damaged when you try to push it back into the cylinder.
At this point it should be fully functional with no air but you may want to reattach the bleed tool and give it a quick bleed to be sure.

This whole thing is a PITA

 

Followed this method - made the tool. Went cheap on the bolts 1/4" x 4" - should have gotten thicker carriage bolts, as the plate wiggled enough that the piston kept popping out sideways. Needed 3 hands to keep it together :P

Having a major issue though. Ordered both slave & master from Pelican. Replaced both. Slave cylinder didn't come with the rubber seal for the end of the hydraulic line, so transferred my old one over. Used a hand pump to bleed the system. First time I pushed the clutch pedal down by hand to test firmness, I had brakefluid bleeding out from the union on the slave cylinder. Retaining clips were in place fine.

Issue that I replaced both for was clutch pedal going to the floor & staying there while driving. Didn't notice fluid all over the splash plate when I removed it to access the slave cylinder. Didn't notice any puddles in the driveway either.

Can't seem to find a listing for the bloody rubber seal anywhere, and contacting Pelican has gotten me nowhere.

Any suggestions?

 

Hey at least you noticed the rubber seal--first time I tried it was still in the old slave--nice mess.

Looks like it only come with a new pipe part#21526759854--typical BMW. Maybe Pelican can help or maybe at a wrecker for a used pipe, seems like a pita to me. Same a the red vacuum attachment at the supercharger--need to by the whole super charger or intake pipe to get a replacement unless you look really hard for one.

 

BTW if you drill a large hole in your plate (center between the bolts) with a step drill, it will hold the piston much better-- no slipping--forgot to mention that. Just keep making it larger with the step drill until the ball end of the piston sits nicely.

 

Good call. I actually didn't notice the seal first try. Hooked it up, bled, noticed the fluid coating the outside of the slave cylinder, then went back and re-read the bleed procedure. That's when I noticed the seal still stuck in the old cylinder. The thing that's very frustrating is that the seal looked fine on visual inspection. Don't understand why it's leaking from that joint...

Couldn't find the hydraulic lines on Pelican. Looks like mini mania and a few other sites may have them, or I can take an hour ride on the bike up to the stealership if I take some time off work and try my luck there...

And here I thought when I ripped the nose clip off and did the supercharger oil change, that would be the longest time I had the S up on stands. You would almost think Lucas found a way to engineer this clutch system from the bowels of hell and get them on the drawing boards for production....

 

ECS tuning--great seller fast shipping but looks like 5 days for them to get it from supplier...
ES#:41491.

 

Thanks for the supplier & part number! Don't want to wait 5 days for it to leave the warehouse, but it does give me a reasonably priced option if I can't find it anywhere sooner. Already found a few places that can ship faster if I pay $10-25 more for a $42 part.

 

ECS would sometimes ship faster than advertised, the seal is common item that people overlook PITA, I made this tool with recessed center. Worked like charm

 

Put you order in and we will do our best to get this faster.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/21526759854/



Thanks

 

Yeah, I like that wood block idea a lot. Won't scuff the ball on the end of the piston like the steel bar will unless I take the dremel to it to bevel and deburr the center hole after I drill it... Think I'm tossing the old one and going this route.


That's some serious customer service. The listing on your site doesn't look like you have the part in stock to ship today though. If I didn't need to get the car back up this weekend, You would have the sale. BMW dealer up the street from work can have the part to me in 2 days for about 5 bucks more :/ That being said, you just moved to the top of the list for my future parts.

 

I went with a slave from Greene Performance. It's metal and easier to bleed, plus the lines to hook into the system are like aircraft quality.

 

"That being said, you just moved to the top of the list for my future parts."

Thanks Twistyd

 

For what it's worth had filled my new slave with fluid, bolted it back in place and compressed it completely using a plastic zip tie and a washer that I had flatten two sides so the zip wouldn't slip off. Worked perfect! The washer fit over the domed tip and is what depressed the slave cylinder. I'll try to post a photo.