Just got back from the dealer, SA advised me of a new recall notice to install the oil line heat shield. Seems new because I was just in two weeks ago and he made no mention of it.

The work order doesn't have the recall info on it, so i'll update when I get her back.



edit: 2008, SIM 11-05-13 "0061822 RETROFIT HEAT PROTECTION SHIELD 11-05-13"
Heat shield and reflective silver tape around oil feed line added.

 

For what year ?

 

I just had mine fixed. 2007 Cooper S

 

I had my 2008 Cooper S fixed about a week ago but I was given no notice of the service action before I went in. I was gonna get my timing chain replaced but I found out that I had the new tensioner, and that the turbo oil line heatshield service was due.

 

Did anyone's AC stop working after the recall? Mine started blowing hot 1st time I used after the recall. I drove home after dark so I didn't use the ac until this afternoon and now it's hot...

 

I just went to pick up my 2007 S after the recall was performed and the dealer informed me the line is leaking at the top of the feed line O ring. Before it went in for service, that area, the top of the turbo was so dry it had a little rust on it, now it is moist with oil. I couldn't say I saw it was dry immediately before the service though, just within the last couple months. But, I didn't notice any oil under the car or the smell of burning oil from cooking on top of the turbo.

The recall as I understand it is two fold, add a rigid metal heat shield over the banjo fitting at the turbo side of the line and foil covered insulation around the line itself. I'm wondering if anyone else has had their line start leaking after the manipulations of the line required to complete the recall and been billed the cost of replacing the line, gulp, $1100 accordingly to replace it?

 

Sounds like you need to find a qualified independent to work with. It's a big job, but not that big. Others have bought non-MINI oil lines and seals. Do both and while you're there check the oil cooler and filter area for leakage. Relative inexpensive parts, just lots o labor.

 

The shield come flat and it gets bent in half and then slid around the oil line. It clips to the line with about the force of a clothes pin. It is REALLY unlikely that the line was damaged during the installation of this heat shield but who knows.

 

I just dropped off my 2007 MCS and brought up the feed line heat sheild and they looked at me like I had 3 heads. They did confirm it's leaking and they would fix it at a discount for only $750 as they are completing the tentioner recall and the "heat shield" recall minus any thing on the feed line.

They did say I have a small leak on the oil filter and the the water pump has a small leak as well.

Looks like I will be busy working on the car in the coming weeks. What is recommended for a replacement oil feed line and is there anything else I should change while I'm there?

 

Changing that oil feed line is a pretty deep job, so if your oil filter housing is in fact leaking it would be easier to do with the catalytic converter, shielding and everything out. As for directly related work, whenever we replace the feed we always do the return as well and make sure the banjo bolts are good.

 

Just got the car back, I still can't believe they put the shield on and told me the shield is to keep the feed line from getting carbon build up in it, how is is possible to get carbon build up in a oil feed line, that sounds absurd!!

The fact the associate that I dropped the car off with said they would be installing a new beefier turbo heat shield not a heat shield for the oil feed line is the part I am having an issue with. How can you not know the work that is being done.

After I talked with a supervisor, they talked with a "Mini rep" and they offered to pay half of the cost to replace the feed line. I don't understand why they wouldn't fix the line knowing it's an issue.

But instead now they have a dissatisfied customer, it's a shame.

here is a pic of the heat shield.

 

I think they actually mean that because of the great temperature that rises from the turbo, the oil line gets so hot that starts to burn the oil inside it. So it blocks the oil and the turbo dies from starvation.

 

Just got my car back under the same recall along with the timing chain tensioner recall, which I never received a notification for. It's amazing how well the car runs now that they have replaced the timing chain and tensioner. Now they need to do something about how much oil our car consumes...

 

Here is another thread with the picture of the shield. I cannot see your pic. So this might help for others.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ld-recall.html

Thanks

 

No, nothing like that.

The oil feed line has 2 rubber O-rings that get incinerated with heat cycles. Once they turn to dust, the line start leaking. Usually happens between 40K-60K miles. Mine went right at 50K.

First signs is the "wet" spot around the oil feed line connection on top of the turbo. Over the next 1K-5K miles, the size of the oil dampness grows, and eventually enough oil starts leaking that you can smell it. If you go another 5K miles, you may even get to see oil smoke pouring out of the hood.

Remedies:
#1a. Replace the defectively designed oil feed line with another that does NOT include rubber o-rings. This is the kit that I used, and it works great: http://www.detroittuned.com/detroit-...-oil-line-kit/. You can DIY this job (took me ~4 hours to take everything apart, and ~2 hours to put it all back together), or pay an independent for ~5 hours of labor to do it for you.
#1b: Replace with another OEM oil feed line that should last for another 40-60K miles. Then replace it again, and again. #1b is the only option available from the dealer at ~$800. I highly recommend option #1a instead.
#2: Crimp a tiny $5.00 heat shield on top of the oil feed line and pretend that it will make the heat magically go away. MINI USA warranty & finance teams underwrite option 2.

HTH,
a

 

I took my Mini in today and was told it needed the heat shield. Then when they were doing it they also told me that my line leaking also, but they told me a price of $550. I am going to clean what looks like fresh oil off the line and watch to see if it comes back.

 

It _will_ come back.
All R56 turbo oil lines have rubber O-rings that turn to dust and stop sealing between 40-60K miles. Mine started "sweating" at exactly 50K miles. By 53K it leaked enough to smell the oil. Usually, you have another 1-2K miles before it leaks and burns enough oil to start smoking.

I DIY-ed replacement with DT kit:
http://www.detroittuned.com/detroit-...-oil-line-kit/

Took about 4+4 hours of labor first time around, most of it removing and re-installing multiple turbo heat shields around downpipe. No special tools required, beyond what's usually found in a garage. If I had to do it second time around, I would have put radiator in "service position" to buy more working space, and likely would have done the job in ~4 hours.

YMMV,
a

P.S.: The puny extra "recall" heat shield above the oil line is mostly cosmetic. It is possible that a marginal oil line ready to go was bent and twisted enough during "recall" heat shield installation to expedite the inevitable failure.

 

I don't think the shield/wrap is going to do much good, but the clip on the top will/should act as a heat sink and help leach off the heat in the line. Sinks have been used for decades on heat producing electronic components with good effect.

 

Maybe at some point, but maybe not right away. I have a feeling the dealer put the oil there, the service guy kept talking in circles when I was asking him questions. That is what made me suspicious. I've caught dealers in lies before. I had a dealer tell me my intake gasket was bad on a vehicle once, I put another 150,000 on that vehicle before the gasket actually did start leaking.

 

He wasn't lying nor did he put the oil there... You can complain here, but you're sounding a little... idk... It's a common and known issue.

 

Well, if you would have heard the guy you would probably had your doubts too.
He told me that the heat from the turbo solidified the oil in the line and caused it to leak. I called another dealer and told them what I was told and they said it sounded fishy too. I am having it looked at by another mechanic next week.

 

I understand you want a second opinion. That's fine. There are two problems. 1) The rubber seal fails causing leaks. This is what your problem sounds like. And 2) The oil cokes the line- what you just described as solidification and can happen if you change your oil every 10K as MINI recommends. Change more frequently.

I just changed my oil line two weeks ago, but before doing so I didn't know much about it. Best of luck!

 

Ok, I was able to have it looked at this morning......NO LEAK

The fact that it is a known problem is what makes it easy for them to be able to lie about it. Most people won't question it because it is common, but the guy was acting strange though that is what tipped me off.


Update: Ha, I made the mistake of going out and playing with the line to see what was with it and making it start leaking so I ended up having to have it replaced anyway. Don't ever go move it around to try to make sure it isn't leaking, move it a little too much and you make a mess.

 

Took "Lucy" in for repairs a little over a week ago, 2008 Mini Cooper S Clubman - Midnight Black & Metallic. She received a new set of shoes (tires), rear brakes & rotors, a new driver's side visor mirror, an oil, lube & filter change and few little minor things. When I picked her up and drove her home, something smelled like it was burning. So I called the service adviser and told him what I was concerned about. He told me to bring her in. On return to the shop, come to find out there was oil leaking from the exhaust turbo oil supply line. Ha ... MINI-NA paid for it ALL ... because of my low mileage (approx 39,000) and great care for my Lil Lucy, they counted it "not robbery" to foot the bill. YAY ME!!! and yay my hubby ... 'cause y'all know ... "a'int nobody got time for that!"

 

i'm a bit curious, how many people have over 50-60k miles on a Detroit tuned "fixed" line to confirm that it is any less likely to fail? looking at that line, i just just as many if not more junctions where the line can fail.